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Discussion Starter #1
I adjusted my rear belt tension the other day. What's happening is that when I torque down the right cone nut (axle nut), that cam adjuster on the right rotates leaving about a 1 mm space between the cam and the tab on the swingarm. The cams on both sides are suppose to sit flush on those little tabs on the swingarm. But, for the life of me, I can never get the right one to keep in contact with the tab. I've even pulled out the axle a little bit and took off and examined the cam to see if there is a manufacturing imperfection, but none is present. I use a wrench on the left side to keep the cam adjuster/belt tension in place while I tighten down the right side axle nut. The wheel still appears lined up correctly it's just that the cam (or big washer) won't stay in contact. When the cam does rotate on the right, it appears only the cam is moving and it doesn't appear the axle moves so I think the wheel is still linied up on both sides. Any suggestions?
 
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Go to your HD dealer and get a new cam. The cam you have may have too much play in the slot on the axle allowing it to move as you tighten the nut. PN 41819-02.
 

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I have 35K on my 08 and never had to adjust the belt . The rear tire last between 10K & 15K and when the tire is changed the Tech has to adjust the belt tension at that time . The belt is made from Kevlar and should not stretch to much . Your belt should last around 70k under normal use . IMO don't worry about the belt tension it will be adjusted every time you get a new tire on the rear .
 

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Clean the cam plate with brake clean to remove any grease or lube that might be on it, put a small dab of never seize on the back face of the cone nut. When you torque down the nut, the never seize will keep it from digging into the cam plate and turning it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Clean the cam plate with brake clean to remove any grease or lube that might be on it, put a small dab of never seize on the back face of the cone nut. When you torque down the nut, the never seize will keep it from digging into the cam plate and turning it.
I'll try your idea as it makes pretty good sense. I think that's exactly whats happening cause when I'm just about at full torque, the cam then moves, kind of spins a little, but the axle doesn't move so the belt tension doesn't change.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have 35K on my 08 and never had to adjust the belt . The rear tire last between 10K & 15K and when the tire is changed the Tech has to adjust the belt tension at that time . The belt is made from Kevlar and should not stretch to much . Your belt should last around 70k under normal use . IMO don't worry about the belt tension it will be adjusted every time you get a new tire on the rear .
I check and adjust the belt myself. I found that the dealer tends to adjust the belt too loose, probably because when the bike is in there, the bike is at operating temperature. I adjust my when the bike is dead cold. I just changed my rear tire at 18,700 miles (this is the original tire) so I'm getting great mileage out of my tires. I last had to adjust the belt around 3000 miles or so.
 

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I'll try your idea as it makes pretty good sense. I think that's exactly whats happening cause when I'm just about at full torque, the cam then moves, kind of spins a little, but the axle doesn't move so the belt tension doesn't change.
I wish it were my idea, it is actually straight from the repair manual. I was having the same issue you are having until I went back and re-read everything. The never seize will solve your problem.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I wish it were my idea, it is actually straight from the repair manual. I was having the same issue you are having until I went back and re-read everything. The never seize will solve your problem.;)
Yup, did this last night and it worked! Thanks for the help. I've got the service manual but just glossed over that part.
 

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This seems to be a fairly common that many diy riders have. Most riders have the bike up on a lift when they put the final torque on the bolt. This will often times result in a space between the cam and the frame on the right side. The solution is to drop the bikes rear tire down on the floor when you torque it up. This seems to keep everything in place. Bye the way, it took me a while to discover this. It damn sure doesn't mention any of this in the shop manual.
 

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It's easy to miss in the service manual, because it is not included in the belt adjustment section, only the rear wheel installation section.
When I do a belt adjustment I do not remove the E-clip, so putting anti-seize on the cone nut is difficult if not impossible.
 

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I check and adjust the belt myself. I found that the dealer tends to adjust the belt too loose, probably because when the bike is in there, the bike is at operating temperature. I adjust my when the bike is dead cold. I just changed my rear tire at 18,700 miles (this is the original tire) so I'm getting great mileage out of my tires. I last had to adjust the belt around 3000 miles or so.
+1 on the dealer adjusting too loose. I just had a rear rim installed and there was a full inch of play in it when I checked it at home. I had to realign the slip ons, and tighten the belt. sometimes the dealer techs seem they they are hacks working in a hobby shop.
 

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There is some slop in the squared hole on the ramp, it almost takes 2 people to tighten the nut so the ramp doesnt move. They have a tool available its called "second hands" and it fits over the axle head and has an adjusting arm thats up against the SA to keep the axle from turning, but its like $80 I think. Someday Ill get one because its a PITA to adjust the belt when youre alone.
 
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