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Discussion Starter #1
I have determined that my stator is bad and have another one on the way. What I
would like to know is what size socket will I need too get the compensator/rotor
off.
 

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I have determined that my stator is bad and have another one on the way. What I
would like to know is what size socket will I need too get the compensator/rotor
off.
Frank, if I'm not mistaken I believe that is a 1 1/2" Socket.
I will check yo make sure for you.
You will also need a blocking tool to lock up the two gears.
Mike U.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike I would like to have the right tools when the part gets here and 1 1/2" socket ain't in my tool box.
 

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Frank, I'm checking now.
I think the 1 1/2 is for the older ones.
There's also a sequence to go through when replacing the Stator Nut and Clutch Basket Nut.
I'll list that for you also.
Mike U.
 

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A piece of scrap wood will work for a locking tool and you don't need to remove the clutch basket .. I did mine three years ago with the Cycle Electrics stator and rotor , is not a 1 1/2 , much smaller .. Forget right off .. Wanna say it's a 3/4 or 5/8 , could be wrong .. Be good to go ahead and replace the bolt as it's a one time use , think it's around five smax at the stealer ...



JtB
 

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It turns out that the Compensator Bolt for a 2012 Touring 103 is a Torx T70.
It is suggested that it be replaced but I do believe that it can be reused.
Also, be sure to use Red Loctite 262.
Torque sequence when reinstalling:
Tighten compensating sprocket to 100 ft. lbs.
Loosen compensating sprocket back 1 full turn 360 degrees.
Tighten compensating sprocket to 140 ft-lbs.
As Jack pointed out it's possible to remove the Compensator without removing the Clutch Basket.
Best of Luck.
Mike U.
 

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Mine on the 11 is a bolt head not a torx , the large nut behind the bolt is a retainer and will pull strait off ..

JtB..
 

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Mine on the 11 is a bolt head not a torx , the large nut behind the bolt is a retainer and will pull strait off ..

JtB..
You are correct Jack!
The Compensator Bolt I have is for The Screaming Eagle Compensator which they changed to a Torx T70, which I believe that Harley changed to on all bikes built after 2011.
I'll keep checking to make sure.
Mike U.
 

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You can re use the bolt , with loctite but I figgered after the miles , whats a few more bucks ..

After you remove the tensioner , and remove the bolt on the compensator , when you pull the sprocket , there's plenty of slack in the chain for it to come on off ..

Rotor can be tricky to clear the bottom of the primary , but it will come out , and be careful reinstalling the rotor , keep a firm grip on it , the magnets will want to snatch it from you ...

JtB
 

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And put the springs back in order and orientation ..

You do have a manual if in doubt correct ??

JtB
 

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95% of the time the compensator can be removed with the clutch in place. But... If you do end up - in the 5% range - removing the clutch, remember that the clutch hub nut is a Left Hand thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I wanted to thank everybody who kicked knowledge into this thread for me. I got the stator R&R'ed and bike is running great. (also replaced the Voltage Reg.) The old stator was totally cooked/burned/wasted. I went with the grind the inner primary technique to get clearance to remove the rotor and although I did need to remove more matl than I thought I would I still did not have to touch the sealing surface where the gasket meets the case. For JackTheBagger yes I do have the full manual for this bike but you guys advice is invaluable for repairs as well. Thanks again. (The Compensator Bolt is 13/16th on a 2012 FLTRU twin cam 103 c.i.) The only tool I had to buy was set of picks to pull the rotor and put it back while keeping it UNDER CONTROL! Them magnets are strong.
417119
 

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Good deal , yeah I had to do a small amount of grinding as well

JtB
 

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Good deal, I was able to do mine without any grinding, but had to hold my mouth just right. I used the pick technique to keep the thing under control as well.
 

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Frank glad to see You got the stator removed and replaced without any issues.
Mike U.


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Discussion Starter #16
Frank glad to see You got the stator removed and replaced without any issues.
Mike U.


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Thanks for your help Mike. i was very close to having issues but thanks to the good guys at RoadGlide.org
I am back on the road. (hate it when my bike is down like that but it sure feels good when you get the wind in your face and some roar in your ears after it's fixed) all smiles then.
 

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Thanks for your help Mike. i was very close to having issues but thanks to the good guys at RoadGlide.org
I am back on the road. (hate it when my bike is down like that but it sure feels good when you get the wind in your face and some roar in your ears after it's fixed) all smiles then.
You're very welcome Bro!
Glad everything worked out for You
That's why I always say, "This is The Greatest Forum on The Internet!"
Mike U.
 
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