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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This was done for the Factory 47 "14 Apes on '17 RGS , same principle for any other! Internal wiring



If you plan on doing this yourself , make sure you have a helper ! and if you have rubber mat , drape it over the tanks first thing ! if you follow the video its straightforward , but you will have to do some things , when you take off the controls , loosen both screws , lift up on the little lock thingie (the U shaped thing) , that thing has a nipple closest to the tank so you have to make sure its pops , then it will slide off, then take the control panel off : three plugs one in the middle , two on each side , that's done ! now (what i did from here was take the brakes/clutch off , wrap them in a towel so they don't scratch shit and let them hang , now loosen the risers nuts , pull bars towards you and then unplug the cables, now you can take the bars off completely ! Next thing is take the controls off the bars leave them attached to the cables (on the 17's you dont have to de-pin the plugs either) , you can pretty much just start pulling the lines up from here , same with the clutch line after , if you want to (if you plan on using the stock grips , i did , ill replace them later) , use a wrap wrench , like the kind you use to take the oil filter off with on the clutch side grip , it will come right off after a few turns !

Now on the new bars , use whatever you want to fish the line, i didn't have the plumbers line like in the video so i used a strong string and tied a nut to the end , run it through the end of the throttle side , you'll have to shake it to get to the bottom , once there pull a little bit of the string out for the controls, place the plugs one in front of the other and use electrical tape , then start fishing it (make sure you still have enough string for the throttle, then do the same for the throttle wire , once the controls go though , just make sure they stay in place until the throttle wire goes through , do the same on the clutch ok easy huh!!

, now go back to the molex connectors in the center console and pull the back plate out as far as it will go , then cut the zip ties to release it , and pull it out,now you'll have to push the molex connectors off of it , its takes patience , while there you might as well cut the zip ties (there hard to get to) that hold the brake lines , it will be easier get to the brake lines later that way ! now add the bars to the bike connecting the molex together , MAKE SURE TO TEST THE HEIGHT YOU WANT IT FIRST! now position the controls and brakes together on the bars and loosely tighten them , position the bars the way you want , turn the bike on electrically to make sure the connectors are correct , even start it up , all good , now tighten the controls and brakes , tighten the riser cap , add the control console , remember the big molex and 2 small ones snap in and tighten the console up , your now ready to ride!

btw , when your trying to get the clutch side controls off the trip meter button slides right off , then the cover will come off , youll have to fuck with the inside of the controls for second to see where they snap off , no big deal really , when i added the grip back i used two sided tape as far up as i could and then re used the wrap wrench to get all the way up ! In the video it takes like 45 minutes or something , for me and my buddy it took a couple of hours (and a 6 pack of beer , it was fucking 97 degrees in the shop!

Also in the center console there are two extra molex ports those im assuming are for heated grips ? when you are doing the clutch youll have to put the line down until it goes (under the console ) otherwise you wont be able close the console and screw it back , its ok , it gives an extra half inch and you will have plenty cable left as well , it may NOT look like it at first , but after a little play it will show !

So I hope this helps anyone else trying to do this ! It is doable and you dont have to be a mechanic !
 

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nice little write up. I've done this myself. The part that takes the longest is pulling the wires. Be patient! Push more than pull. I pulled all the wires in one bunch. But taped one of the connectors back to make wverything thin as I could so it wouldn't be one big clump going through the corners of the bars. Some are much easier to wire than others out there.

Lots of videos on YouTube as well.
 

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The part that takes the longest is pulling the wires.
After installing several sets of 14" bars, I've got the wire pulling down to a science....usually takes maybe 3-5 minutes to do both sides, even on the meat hook style bars. The thing that always gives me the most trouble is installing new poly riser bushings....what a PIA! I'm sure there's some technique out there I'm not aware of but they always give me fits!
 

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This was done for the Factory 47 "14 Apes on '17 RGS , same principle for any other! Internal wiring



If you plan on doing this yourself , make sure you have a helper ! and if you have rubber mat , drape it over the tanks first thing ! if you follow the video its straightforward , but you will have to do some things , when you take off the controls , loosen both screws , lift up on the little lock thingie (the U shaped thing) , that thing has a nipple closest to the tank so you have to make sure its pops , then it will slide off, then take the control panel off : three plugs one in the middle , two on each side , that's done ! now (what i did from here was take the brakes/clutch off , wrap them in a towel so they don't scratch shit and let them hang , now loosen the risers nuts , pull bars towards you and then unplug the cables, now you can take the bars off completely ! Next thing is take the controls off the bars leave them attached to the cables (on the 17's you dont have to de-pin the plugs either) , you can pretty much just start pulling the lines up from here , same with the clutch line after , if you want to (if you plan on using the stock grips , i did , ill replace them later) , use a wrap wrench , like the kind you use to take the oil filter off with on the clutch side grip , it will come right off after a few turns !

Now on the new bars , use whatever you want to fish the line, i didn't have the plumbers line like in the video so i used a strong string and tied a nut to the end , run it through the end of the throttle side , you'll have to shake it to get to the bottom , once there pull a little bit of the string out for the controls, place the plugs one in front of the other and use electrical tape , then start fishing it (make sure you still have enough string for the throttle, then do the same for the throttle wire , once the controls go though , just make sure they stay in place until the throttle wire goes through , do the same on the clutch ok easy huh!!

, now go back to the molex connectors in the center console and pull the back plate out as far as it will go , then cut the zip ties to release it , and pull it out,now you'll have to push the molex connectors off of it , its takes patience , while there you might as well cut the zip ties (there hard to get to) that hold the brake lines , it will be easier get to the brake lines later that way ! now add the bars to the bike connecting the molex together , MAKE SURE TO TEST THE HEIGHT YOU WANT IT FIRST! now position the controls and brakes together on the bars and loosely tighten them , position the bars the way you want , turn the bike on electrically to make sure the connectors are correct , even start it up , all good , now tighten the controls and brakes , tighten the riser cap , add the control console , remember the big molex and 2 small ones snap in and tighten the console up , your now ready to ride!

btw , when your trying to get the clutch side controls off the trip meter button slides right off , then the cover will come off , youll have to fuck with the inside of the controls for second to see where they snap off , no big deal really , when i added the grip back i used two sided tape as far up as i could and then re used the wrap wrench to get all the way up ! In the video it takes like 45 minutes or something , for me and my buddy it took a couple of hours (and a 6 pack of beer , it was fucking 97 degrees in the shop!

Also in the center console there are two extra molex ports those im assuming are for heated grips ? when you are doing the clutch youll have to put the line down until it goes (under the console ) otherwise you wont be able close the console and screw it back , its ok , it gives an extra half inch and you will have plenty cable left as well , it may NOT look like it at first , but after a little play it will show !

So I hope this helps anyone else trying to do this ! It is doable and you dont have to be a mechanic !
Great write up bother.

I'm sure this will come in handy for guys looking to do this mod.

The stock bars suck.

Swomack
 

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those 2 "extra" connectors gave me much grief.
I didn't remember seeing them when I disconnected everything.
Finished up my F47 install and had these 2 plugs that went to nowhere .......
I looked like a retard rubbing shit in my hair, until I found some info on the net about the 2 heated grip plugs :grin:
 
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Discussion Starter #6
those 2 "extra" connectors gave me much grief.
I didn't remember seeing them when I disconnected everything.
Finished up my F47 install and had these 2 plugs that went to nowhere .......
I looked like a retard rubbing shit in my hair, until I found some info on the net about the 2 heated grip plugs :grin:
Yea I think me and my buddy had already drinkin a 12 pack by the time we noticed the 2 heat plugs, lol
 
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