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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK so a while back we determined that a lot of us had worn motor mounts. And we also realized that it was MoCo parts and aftermarket equivalent, or Glide Pro. And I ordered a set of GP's, then promptly took a time out with a knee issue.

Today I finally got around to doing the motor mounts. It's not a real easy job, not at all like doing them on an FXR.

Having suspected that the problem was mostly with the rears, I did them first. I read the directions about pulling the rear exaust and wheel from the scooter and a bunch of other stuff.

Then I just did it my way.

Jacked it up on my spanking new lift and started pulling it down. Bags and side covers off. I took the rear can hangers loose, pulled the caliper and set it on the bag support. Unclipped the brake line and AL sensor wire from the swing arm and pull the right pivot bolt first. Then unplugged the AL sensor wire and unclipped it from the AL unit. On reassembly, I did have to slip the right can off, it was hitting the axle and preventing the swing arm from lining up on the trans.



Someone had noticed that there was a difference in the pivot bolts the MoCo has used Mine has a hex head spacer and a bolt on each side. No idea as to what the hex head spacer is for, it will not hold the axle to remove the nut.



Then I pulled the left passenger foot peg and motor mount bracket from the frame. I had one jack holding the scooter and another jack to supporting the trans. I really needed them to get it all lined back up. I backed the axle adjuster off and removed the belt. Then pulled the pivot axle out the left side.



Then I moved the swing arm and wheel asm to the rear.




With the swing arm to the rear, I was able to reach in and remove the right mount from the cup in the frame. Just reached in over the front of the swing arm. Slipped the new one in the same way.



Then I push the swing arm back into place and slipped the new GP pivot axle in from the left side. I might be leaving out a bunch of jack adjusting and wheel positioning, hammer swinging and foul language. Seriously to get the trans boss aligned with the swing arm bearings and spacers and right mount is harder than it sounds. And the axle being slathered in anti-seize doesn't help. The spacers being a loose fit was part of the issue. And the right can touching the end of the axle was another. But in the end, and with no loss of blood, it went back in. The axle is a little longer than OEM, and it interferes with the plastic end caps a little. Might not be enough to matter, they are pretty hard to pop off. But I think I'll tape em for the first road test.

At this point I installed the left mount and support bracket and torqued it all down. Then I had a look at the front mount. More or less, right back where it belonged.



The GP rear mounts are made different from the MoCo mounts, and should at first glance be less susceptible to rearward deflection.



End part one
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Part two

The it was just reinstall the lower shock bolts and the right can, bolt up the rear can hangers and adjust the belt. I'll post a word or two on that, since it's often asked. The axle turn a cam that forces the axle to the rear. The best way to do this is with a little adjuster tool. As Harley tools go, the adjuster is cheap.



Once its tight as a guitar string you can set the tension with a tension tool. 1/2 inch deflection at 10lbs of force. Adjusting the bolt on the tension tool as needed. Easy-peasy. Then torque the nut on the right end of the axle, install the safety clip and remove the adjuster tool. No slipping or turning of the axle as the nut is tightened. I hear people say that they tighten it until they can just grab the belt and twist it a 1/4 turn. After adjusting this one, I tried that. No way could I get a 1/4 turn of twist out of it, perhaps half that much.



End part two
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Part Three

And now the front mount.

Again the directions say to take a bunch of stuff off. Like remove the master cylinder from the scooter. Remove the lowers, blah blah.

And again I did it my way.

With a jack under the motor I removed the left and right floor boards. Then I unbolted the master cylinder and moved it enough to access the right mount support plate, unbolted the plate and dropped the pedal/cylinder asm out of the way. I also left lower fairings in place.

Then I unbolted the right mount from the mount bracket and removed it. I had to unbolt the oil cooler to get access to the mount bracket to engine bolt nuts up on the case. Another way to get to them would be to remove the oil filter. Less mess moving the cooler. With the bolts out I removed the kick stand and removed the bracket with the left mount still bolted to it. Then reversed it all to reassemble. You don't really need to pull the kick stand, but you can see the back side of the mount recess with it off, as well as see the mount bracket while starting the bolts. Only takes a minute to gun it off.




The new mount sits a little higher than the old one and is nice and centered.



Have not ridden it yet, but sitting on it and starting it up it felt a little more hash than before. GP says the mounts need 500 miles to break in, which would prolly soften them up a little.

And now a pointer. There are a bunch of bolts with this job that thread into threaded holes in the frame. And they are retained with thread locker. You need to be able to clean the old thread locker off of the bolts and out of the holes before you resemble them. Locktite will not hold if there is old thread locker in the hole and on the bolt. You don't want this stuff falling off, out on the road. The old thread locker also has an adverse impact on how tight the bolts actually are torqued.

As scooter work goes, this is a 12 pak job. Lots of locked bolts, some that are just plain hard to reach, and generally a lot of stuff in the way. And lining up the rear pivot axle takes some patience, a bigger hammer wont get it done. And you'll need at least two jacks. Craftsman floor jack would be almost worthless on this job, but you could get it done on the floor.

Now before you run out an buy a bunch of tools, it's three hours billable at the dealer. If I did another one this week, I could get it done in three hours, but it's not a gravy job. So they might try to bill more time. So look it over and if you decide to take a run at yours, I hope this helps a little.
 

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Thanks for the great write up nice job i had the Glide PRO on my old electra 98 and those were great ,i will go with Glide PRO again on my 15fltrxs if i need to change the mounts


Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
 

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I did this a couple of months ago and man does it tighten up the bike and makes it more responsive in the curves.
 

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You're the man Thermodyne! Really appreciate you taking the time to shoot pics and do all that typing. Now if I can just find an extra $450. My old girl definitely needs something. I need to lay her down on the table and start undressing her. She's feeling loose in all the wrong places.
 

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Nice write up! I never had any problem with the rear mount, the rear mount on my bike is still the original mount. Replaced the front mount 1 time but I didn't need to replace it because it was in great condition. 100,000 + miles on the 08 and the HD mounts are in great condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nice write up! I never had any problem with the rear mount, the rear mount on my bike is still the original mount. Replaced the front mount 1 time but I didn't need to replace it because it was in great condition. 100,000 + miles on the 08 and the HD mounts are in great condition.
This is more of an 09 and newer issue. The 08s use a different set up, same mounts as the old 86> FXR/FLT.
 

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Excellent write up. I think this is something I'm gonna have to do this winter. Thanks for the info
 

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Great job and write up! Now get her out on the road and let us know the results of your hard labor! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Great job and write up! Now get her out on the road and let us know the results of your hard labor! ;)
Had a moment for a quick run today. Started out feeling like an old hard mount shovel. Thought it might shake the fairing apart at idle.

It got better once I was out and moving, and fine above 3000rpm. In the 25 miles I rode it, it seemed to soften up a little. I noticed a lot of vibration in the engine guard and highway pegs, so that is most likely transferring from the front mounts.

Seemed better by the time I got home, but still real harsh. Where as the motor used to really dance in the frame at idle, not it hardly moves. But it also feels a lot tighter rear suspension wise. And I can really feel the worn rear tire now. Before I just heard it. I'll report back when I have 500 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Here's an update.

I have about 800 miles on the new mounts now. And they did soften up some after the first 100 miles.

But with that said, they are still too stiff for a touring scooter. At different laods/speeds, different things vibrate, and as I down shift coming to a stop it will run through each of them repeatedly.

The fairing shakes badly at times. This may be a Roadie issue that other scooters don't have. And having a Madstad prolly makes it worse.

At some rpm/loads the crash bar shakes so bad I worry about the highway pegs shaking loose. I've gotten in the habit of keeping my toe parked on the peg to deaden the vibration.

At other speeds I feel it in the bars or seat.

So for a Roadie, I'm giving these the thumbs down.

Now to be fair, I run a long duration cam grind, so mine is not one of the smoother motors you'll find in a Harley. The mounts might be more acceptable in a scooter that was stock or mildly cam'd.

The plan is to replace them with oem parts. I'll do the fronts first and run it a while. Then do the rears when I replace the rubber, probably next month.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK here's an additional update.

After 1000 miles, the mounts were still, IMHO, to stiff. There were several transitions the scooter would go through when slowing to a stop that caused various things to vibrate. The highway pegs were like paint shakers at times. And the fairing was shaking badly when the scooter was cold.

On the up side, the rear of the scooter is much firmer in a lean. A lot less wondering in a long turn, even with 20K+ worn down tires on it.

I decided I couldn't stand the level of vibration for anything close to a 10 hour day, so I ordered a set of oem mounts. I decided to just do the front mounts first, then see what I had. Partly because the vibrations that were bothering me were all related to the front of the frame/crash bar area. And partly because I'll have the rear wheel off for new rubber in a few weeks. Also it was raining and I needed something to do after dinner.........


Turned out great. I put a 100 miles on it yesterday and was completely happy with it. And with the urethane in the rear, they may be all that's needed to keep the power train from moving to the rear over time. Also, the floor board buzz I originally went after is completely gone.

So my recommendation based on my scooter is to use the urethane mounts in the rear and oem rubber mounts up front.

A word or two on my scooter, I run a long duration cam, so the motor is less than smooth at idle, and has a pretty good stutter to it below 2000rpm. I also run a very stiff spring on the rear shock. Both of these probably impact how the mounts behaved. I also suspect that the fairing shake is a Roadie thing, and probably wouldn't be noticed on a Batwing.

So my recommendations would be:

Go with the oem if you want to insure that you are as smooth as it was when new.

Use the Urethane in the rear if you want to try and fix it more permanently.

And don't use the front urethane mounts unless you have a King or some 130 inch monster that needs extra containment.



With that said, anyone wanna buy a set of front urethane mounts? Already broken in :wink:
 

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A word or two on my scooter, I run a long duration cam, so the motor is less than smooth at idle, and has a pretty good stutter to it below 2000rpm. I also run a very stiff spring on the rear shock. Both of these probably impact how the mounts behaved. I also suspect that the fairing shake is a Roadie thing, and probably wouldn't be noticed on a Batwing.
Considering my 1981 Shovel is behaving virtually identically with her (~600mi old) GP mounts ... I'd say it's definitely the mounts.

I was just thinking about trying an OEM mount in the front on the way into work this morning. Because the vibrations are still violent enough to make the mirrors blur at about 2k. Although much as with yours it does smooth out almost completely at around 3k ... Which unfortunately does not jive well with local speed laws..
 

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Did you re-set the mount after you first rode it? That said, the handling should be so much more precise now with the GP mounts installed and that should make your other concerns trivial. I had the mod on my 03 Road King and help install it on my buddies 08 Electra Glide Classic and though the vibration is distributed different then the stock mounts it is much less noticeable on the road and the handling/tracking is far superior from stock on both bikes...Check your work, follow up and re-set the front mount as prescribed. Consult with the GP owner, he is very helpful and will listen to your concerns and will steer you in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you re-set the mount after you first rode it? That said, the handling should be so much more precise now with the GP mounts installed and that should make your other concerns trivial. I had the mod on my 03 Road King and help install it on my buddies 08 Electra Glide Classic and though the vibration is distributed different then the stock mounts it is much less noticeable on the road and the handling/tracking is far superior from stock on both bikes...Check your work, follow up and re-set the front mount as prescribed. Consult with the GP owner, he is very helpful and will listen to your concerns and will steer you in the right direction.
Um, who are you talking to? Stoic Joker?
 

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Glide Pro

Um, who are you talking to? Stoic Joker?
I was talking to you Thermodyne. I think there may be some issues with the install that you can probably fix if you contact Jake to help you tweak a couple of things. You may have something too tight or too loose or misaligned by the way you described your install technique. I'd hate to see you waste money and miss-out on the great performance the system provides because of some minor install issues. Let Jake know what you are experiencing and he can probably tell you why and what to do to make it right.
 

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Nice documented procedure.
Installed Glide Pro on my 12 RGC live it but bit stiffe. Do you have metal plates on both ends of the bushing?
:+1:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was talking to you Thermodyne. I think there may be some issues with the install that you can probably fix if you contact Jake to help you tweak a couple of things. You may have something too tight or too loose or misaligned by the way you described your install technique. I'd hate to see you waste money and miss-out on the great performance the system provides because of some minor install issues. Let Jake know what you are experiencing and he can probably tell you why and what to do to make it right.
You do realize that an 11 uses a different mounting system from the earlier scooters? That three mount system you are talking about goes way back to like 79 or 80, and had some issues. That single front mount does need some care when installing. The new system is assembly line friendly, it just bolts in and has nothing to align or adjust. Even the center bracket positions with hollow dowels, so there is nothing to move or massage.

Go back and read the whole thread, there are pictures.
 
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