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Discussion Starter #1
So I just threw in a set of Woods 555 cams in my 16 Road Glide Special... and had her retuned... 88 HP and 105 ft lbs...not to shabby I guess? I have a set of Fuel Moto Level B Heads and .030 cometic head gasket on the way...gonna see how she pulls after that... so all in all, MGS Duals, Stage 1 breather, 103 stock pistons, and the 555s, I'm decently happy. Not overly satisfied with the tune, but it's getting there....
 

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ImageUploadedByMO Free1460407621.358029.jpg you might consider putting your stock cams back in and retuning it.

This was a 2015 FLHX and all I did was install Rush headers, RC 4.5 mufflers a S&S Stealth air cleaner and tuned with power vision.


Dyno Guy- Zimmerman Minnesota
 

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Sorry man, but your tuner needs to find a new line of work. Put your parts in it when they get there, take it down to Steve at Fullsac in Lake Havasu and be done with it. I just google mapped it and he's an hour from you.
 

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Sorry man, but your tuner needs to find a new line of work. Put your parts in it when they get there, take it down to Steve at Fullsac in Lake Havasu and be done with it. I just google mapped it and he's an hour from you.
Definitely agree Steve will get it handled.
 

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Still going to Kelly for dyno tunes? Like I said before Kelly can't tune a fish.
 

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Afr

Strange all kelly tunes have the same afr 18.00 i agree with the others he cant tune a radio
 

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Please listen to these guys and go get your bike tuned by Fullsack. Ive seen graphs like that on car motors and they didn't hold up or perform as well as one properly tuned. If its done right you won't be semi satisfied. Get it done right and see if that blows your hair back. I bet it will.
 

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Tune

The best of the best say dump him
 

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So I just threw in a set of Woods 555 cams in my 16 Road Glide Special... and had her retuned... 88 HP and 105 ft lbs...not to shabby I guess? I have a set of Fuel Moto Level B Heads and .030 cometic head gasket on the way...gonna see how she pulls after that... so all in all, MGS Duals, Stage 1 breather, 103 stock pistons, and the 555s, I'm decently happy. Not overly satisfied with the tune, but it's getting there....
That is a terrible tune. That graph is all over the place and with a good tune you should be at better than 95hp and over 110 torque. I can assure you by looking at the graph he didn't do his multiple throttle position pulls in the lower rpm ranges, change the tuning blocks then blend them. Then do the multiple throttle position pulls in the in the upper rpm ranges, change the tuning blocks and blend the numbers. If so , you would see a real nice curve that should have come on somewhere around 2500 rpms and pulled out well above 5000 rpms. It's all about putting the time in. A basic generic download would have been as good as that that graph.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm not having him do the tune again because I'm happy with him...I have no way of riding out trailering it anywhere...so he has another guy at his shop fixing it so that I can at least ride it. But I'm not paying him for something he's fucked up. I'm talking myself out of hitting him for the crap he calls tuning. Haha
 

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That tuner needs to be put down like a dog!

My factory stock 103 with thunderheader, breather & TTS tuner came out at 85 hp & 101 fpt with the right tuner. No flat spots either.
 

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I'm not having him do the tune again because I'm happy with him...I have no way of riding out trailering it anywhere...so he has another guy at his shop fixing it so that I can at least ride it. But I'm not paying him for something he's fucked up. I'm talking myself out of hitting him for the crap he calls tuning. Haha
You're only an hour or so from FullSac Performance | At least call and talk to Steve and set something up to ride it over to him once you're able to get it that far.
 

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Afr

Looking at the afr on both runs run file 24 has the afr at 18.5 to 15.3 and he shows more power and tq than run file 7 with the afr at
12.8 to 12.9 does this make sense to anyone
 

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Looking at the afr on both runs run file 24 has the afr at 18.5 to 15.3 and he shows more power and tq than run file 7 with the afr at
12.8 to 12.9 does this make sense to anyone
First of all, the air should never get over 14.3 or a little leaner in closed loop and when running in open loop cruising or close to full throttle it should be at 13.2 to 13.4 and at that also at 80 mph cruising to keep the motor cool. Running one of these engines with an air of 18.5, you got a melt down coming on.
 

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Afr values

UNDERSTAND GENERAL TERMINOLOGY:
Air-Fuel Ratio (AFR) - The most common reference term used for mixtures in internal combustion engines. It is the ratio between the mass of air and the mass of fuel in the air-fuel mix at any given moment.

Oxygen (O2) Sensor - Is an electronic device that measures the proportion of oxygen (O2) in the exhaust gas.

Load - Is the measurement of how hard an engine is working. Coasting downhill is considered very low load. Driving uphill is considered high load. DP's EFI tuning technology is a load based system.


UNDERSTAND AFR VALUES:
AFR Values & Characteristics in Four Stroke Engines
6.0 AFR - Rich Burn Limit (engine fully warm)
9.0 AFR - Black Smoke / Low Power
11.5 AFR - Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle
12.2 AFR - Safe Best Power at Wide Open Throttle
13.3 AFR - Lean Best Torque
14.6 AFR - Stoichiometric AFR (Stoich)
15.5 AFR - Lean Cruise
16.5 AFR - Usual Best Economy
18.0 AFR - Carbureted Lean Burn Limit
22.0+ AFR - EEC / EFI Lean Burn Limit

Lean Conditions - Common Side Affects
Hotter Engine Temperatures
Detonation / Pinging
Hesitation in Throttle Response

Rich Conditions - Common Side Affects
Engine Flooding
Decel Pop / Backfiring
Lethargic Throttle Response
Excess Carbon Build-up (sooty pipes)
Fuel Smell from the Exhaust
 
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its just my humble opinion but why keep putting out $$ for dyno runs... I have a 2016 RG special with dealer installed 110 kit in it but I don't plan on a dyno run until I get every thing done.. the bike has 16 miles on it right now, and I am in the process of researching to see what others have done and numbers that have been obtained so I welcome any input along those lines... I guess my point is to figure out what you want to do and do it all at one time... just my .02
 

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If you have spent all that money on those upgrades, it makes good sense to get a dyno tune so all that money wasn't going to waste. First, most bikes that come out of a dealership and have been tuned are running extremely lean. Lean means heat, heat means not good. We dyno tune bikes all the time that are just like that with very lean settings and run hot as hell. If you spend $25,000 dollars for a bike then spend another $2500 on an upgrade, what's $400 on a good dyno tune by a respected dyno guy. Sounds well worth the money to me. And as you say, JMHO.
 
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