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Discussion Starter #1
I believe my last ride was about 2 months ago, everything was fine. I parked the bike, just never hooked it up to the battery tender. It did rain alittle. Tried to start the bike a 2 days ago, the neutral and oil light turn on, but the bike doesn't turn on. Put it on the battery tender, it's a solid red and has been since this morning when I checked. Still just the neutral and oil light turn on.

Ever since I installed my new amp/speakers and DIY air ride, it's been on the battery tender. I do know I can activate my air ride when the bike is off, but I don't think it's constantly running unless I try to add air.

Any ideas what it could be? I'd hate to buy another battery, would be the third one in less than 2 years.
 

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Run a test on the battery. If you don't have the tools to do so take it out & run it by your local auto parts place. They should be able to load test it. Prior to that, make sure all your cables are tight and corrosion free.

Lil Chief
 
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Did you check for DTC's? Check the run/stop switch on the handlebars, also try wiggling the main ignition switch a little and see what happens, with the bike being up in it's years it may be possible that the main ignition is going bad. I know that on my 08 the main ignition switch is going bad because I can put in the run position and the bike may not start then a simple wiggle establishes the connection and the bike will start, I got a new ignition switch I just haven't put it in yet.
If you turn on the ignition and you can hear the fuel pump run then the problem may be in the starter wire connections, first check the small wire at the back of the starter if that wire has a bad connection the starter will be dead and not work at all, also check the main starter wires.
Chances are your battery is good I can leave my bike alone for 2 months without a battery tender (I don' use a tender at all) with the security running and I can go out and start it with no problems.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you, I'll try and check tomorrow.

Just my luck when the extended warranty expires something happens.
 

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As you said... Ever since I did "X"... I've had a problem.

Then therein lies the problem.

With these Can-Bus systems... you can't just splice into any wire and not expect other issues to pop up .

I'd disconnect your battery and do an amp check... then connect it again and re-test. That will tell you if your bike is sucking the life out of it.

??

Is it just that the bike won't turn over when you push the button? But the lights and horn still work??
 

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Many tenders will not charge up a depleted battery. Hook it to a charger, or jump start it. Couldn't imagine not riding for 2 months.
 

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Do you hear the fuel pump run with the on/off switch to on or run and the ignition switch on? Also do the lights go dim when you hit the start button indicating low voltage? As as mentioned above, check the connections at the starter. Use a test light to make sure the starter is getting power with ignition switch on and when you hit the start button. You may also want to try to gently tap on the starter with the handle of a hammer or screwdriver. It is possible that the start may be hung up because it has been sitting and because of the age of the bike.
 

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Just had the same problem with mine and found this thread. Last thing I did was wash the bike and it has been sitting, after driving it into the garage, for about a month. Thought that I would make sure it fired up before pulling it out of the garage. While getting some other things ready, I tried to fire it up and got nothing. Ignition on, bright lights, switched the run switch to on and Zip. After reading this thread, I went back out and did a slow startup process and noticed that the neural switch was not lit up. I didn't know that the bike would not start unless it is in neutral or the clutch is pulled in. I'm glad it is set up that way. This is such a great resource! Thanks Dinggus.
 

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With these Can-Bus systems... you can't just splice into any wire and not expect other issues to pop up

The OP 2007 bike doesn't have a can-bus system so that is out of play.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As you said... Ever since I did "X"... I've had a problem.

Then therein lies the problem.

With these Can-Bus systems... you can't just splice into any wire and not expect other issues to pop up .

I'd disconnect your battery and do an amp check... then connect it again and re-test. That will tell you if your bike is sucking the life out of it.

??

Is it just that the bike won't turn over when you push the button? But the lights and horn still work??
I never spliced any wires, it's more of a quick connect linked to wires. The neutral light and oil light come on, I noticed the cruise control switch and auxiliary switch were dim. Doesn't turn, I didn't try the horn.

Many tenders will not charge up a depleted battery. Hook it to a charger, or jump start it. Couldn't imagine not riding for 2 months.
Might have to try the car jumping it, I'd hate to take all the wiring apart again, lol. I enjoy riding, just not in 45F or below weather. Europe doesn't have a long riding season like I am use to in Miami. I would have rode within those 2 months, but work has me traveling alot.

Do you hear the fuel pump run with the on/off switch to on or run and the ignition switch on? Also do the lights go dim when you hit the start button indicating low voltage? As as mentioned above, check the connections at the starter. Use a test light to make sure the starter is getting power with ignition switch on and when you hit the start button. You may also want to try to gently tap on the starter with the handle of a hammer or screwdriver. It is possible that the start may be hung up because it has been sitting and because of the age of the bike.
Fuel pump and lights don't turn on. Only lights I see turning on is: neutral, oil, cruise control switch (very dim) and auxiliary switch (very dim). Do I just touch the starter with the test light? It's new, only 3 years old. The bike doesn't even try to turn over.

If this ends up being the battery, how will I know what's pulling power? It's most likely my air-ride since the switch can be activated when the bike is off, right?
 

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If you have a small digital voltage meter you can check the voltage directly at the battery. If you don't have a meter you can get one cheap or even free at harbor freight. A known good battery should have between 12 to 13 volts at rest. It should put out between 10 to 12 volts while cranking and with a good charging system the battery should have between high 12 to 14 volts with it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just an update, dropped my battery off 2 weeks ago to get recharged, went on business trip, came back and picked the battery up and bike started up.

Now, I just need to figure out what caused the battery drain, but plan to take it apart since it's winter in Europe right now.
 

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Do you have any audio upgrades on the bike?
 

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Two months of total inactivity on any modern vehicle (1980 or newer) or RV that has a 12V system without some type of input either a battery tender or solar will cause the on board battery voltage to drop below what is required for starting the vehicle, even a motorcycle. There will still be voltage but by that time is will be below what is required to crank over the motor. Even a brand new battery will have a parasitic loss because of the ECM and the clock in the radio. Those two things are always drawing power. The only time they are not is if the battery is disconnected or the Master Fuse is pulled.

O.P. you were doing the right thing by having your bike plugged into a battery tender or other "smart" trickle charger when it wasn't being used. Now that the battery has received a new full charge, you would be wise to keep it plugged in the future whenever you are not riding it.

IronMark is also correct in that the ignition switches also tend to wear over time and also may need to be replaced in the future. I have seen some older bikes that the switch has to be "fiddled" to the right position before the bike will start. The older bikes may not have all the bell's and whistles but they are little easier to work on when it comes to finding accessory power.

I have an 08 RG in the fleet and it is still on the original battery. It spends at least 4 months every winter in storage and is hooked up to a battery tender. The new ride is as well, so is my buddies batwing that is stored in my shop. My RV batteries and those of my sisters RV are also stored for at least 6 months of the year and I rotate the 4 bank Battery Tender between those 12 volt and 6 volt batteries (hooked together in series to make 12V). Treat your vehicle batteries well and they will last and be there when you need them.


Calgaryglide
 
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Sounds like a parasitic draw to me , I can leave my bike off the tender for months and no problem , a draw test is needed on the scooter , verify your amp is turning off , you could also have a voltage regulator that is stuck exciting the alternator these are common draws on a lot of vehicles


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Discussion Starter #16
Do you have any audio upgrades on the bike?

Yes, amp and 4 speakers.

Sounds like a parasitic draw to me , I can leave my bike off the tender for months and no problem , a draw test is needed on the scooter , verify your amp is turning off , you could also have a voltage regulator that is stuck exciting the alternator these are common draws on a lot of vehicles


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I'm just going to have to take the fairing off and test all my add-ons.


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I do know that when I changed to an aftermarket radio awhile ago my battery will not last as long as it did when the stock radio was in place. I can only assume for whatever reason that the aftermarket radio draws more power because of the memory it must keep where as the stock radio doesn't really have that much stuff to memorise?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I do know that when I changed to an aftermarket radio awhile ago my battery will not last as long as it did when the stock radio was in place. I can only assume for whatever reason that the aftermarket radio draws more power because of the memory it must keep where as the stock radio doesn't really have that much stuff to memorise?
That could be a reason.

How many speakers do you have? I'm just wondering when I would need to upgrade my charging system to something more powerful.
 

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I have a aftermarket radio and amp and I don't have any problems starting the bike after it sit for 2 months with no charger on it. The only parasitic draw you should have would be the alarm system and the clock if you have one or both of these. I would think that the battery is getting weak and the parasitic draw is pulling down the battery and the battery needs replacement, like I mentioned before with a good battery and the alarm system on my bike can sit for 2 months or better and I can start it right up.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have a aftermarket radio and amp and I don't have any problems starting the bike after it sit for 2 months with no charger on it. The only parasitic draw you should have would be the alarm system and the clock if you have one or both of these. I would think that the battery is getting weak and the parasitic draw is pulling down the battery and the battery needs replacement, like I mentioned before with a good battery and the alarm system on my bike can sit for 2 months or better and I can start it right up.
Battery could be getting weak. I bought it last year but it's been drained twice (one due to leaving the lights on, and the second I have no clue why).
 
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