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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure on the cams that are in the bike now but they are supposedly SE 251's. I checked the stock tensioners and they looked like they will last quite a while but I have decided to get the se cam plate upgrade and do the cams sometime in the near future so that I won't have to deal with this possible issue later on down the road.

I have plenty of power at 3000 rpm's but below that it is less than staggering and the 26"'s should really wake up the bottom end of my 95". This bike is so much heavier than my softail or Dyna that it really needs the power on the bottom end to get it going.

Not sure if I will need another Dyna after the install but I'll see how it runs. This is probably going to have to wait until after my trip in a few weeks so I guess mid July will be when I do this.
 

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Good Luck with the future cam upgrade. I hope it wakes it up to your liking. That Softail and Dyna might get a lil lonely this year. Have fun making the Roadie fit your needs.
 

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Not sure on the cams that are in the bike now but they are supposedly SE 251's. I checked the stock tensioners and they looked like they will last quite a while but I have decided to get the se cam plate upgrade and do the cams sometime in the near future so that I won't have to deal with this possible issue later on down the road.

I have plenty of power at 3000 rpm's but below that it is less than staggering and the 26"'s should really wake up the bottom end of my 95". This bike is so much heavier than my softail or Dyna that it really needs the power on the bottom end to get it going.

Not sure if I will need another Dyna after the install but I'll see how it runs. This is probably going to have to wait until after my trip in a few weeks so I guess mid July will be when I do this.
Just a idea for ya,

My local service department has 2 displays up. 1 display showing off the SE cam plate with a stock configuration next to it. It has handles on the cams so u can turn each of them and see how much less tension the SE plate has on it. Then the other display is basically the same thing but with Gear driven cams. Hands down the less tension aka easier to turn then the others. Have u ever thought about not spending the cash on the SE plate and just going with gear driven cams??


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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If you ride in the lower rpm range (cruise around 2250 to 3000) you are going to like the 26's. two up or riding single they do the trick. 100% satisfied. They really wake up the bike well into the high rpm range.
 
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I have an 02 RK that is stage III 95" with the Andrews 26G cams and I can say that the bottom end is great. It gets with the program in a hurry but eventually falls off. You can't smack the throttle in 5th doing the speed limit (70/75) and expect it to really get up and go. On some of the steeper hills in MT it won't handle two up going the speed limit so I have to down shift into 4th gear. Passing in a hurry can be done using 4th gear. I've had them in for about 8 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don;t want to do gears as I don;t want to tear everything down, measure crank run out and then order cams and that is the only way I would do it if I were going gear drive.
 

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We just installed another set of those 26's Thursday.
2002 Road King, had T/header slip-ons, and along with the 26's we installed a free-flowing air filter.
The 88"er tuned off at 73 hp and 92 ft/lbs.
BTW, you do not need a fancy-dan cam plate to slide a set of cams into the picture.
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #8
We just installed another set of those 26's Thursday.
2002 Road King, had T/header slip-ons, and along with the 26's we installed a free-flowing air filter.
The 88"er tuned off at 73 hp and 92 ft/lbs.
BTW, you do not need a fancy-dan cam plate to slide a set of cams into the picture.
Scott
Scott, thanks for the info. I know I don;t need the other cam plate but the goal is to not have to go in the cam chest again after this. That is the whole reason for doing cams as I am doing the cam plate. And as long as I am in there, might as well drop in a set of cams.
 

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Scott, thanks for the info. I know I don;t need the other cam plate but the goal is to not have to go in the cam chest again after this. That is the whole reason for doing cams as I am doing the cam plate. And as long as I am in there, might as well drop in a set of cams.
No disrespect, but that SE cam plate is really aimed at the conversion crowd. Sure it's beefier, but in the end it will wear just like your stock plate and bring no appreciable difference in reliability - In my opinion.

I understand not going with gears, although IF i had .000-001" runout I would consider using gears.

Here's one other thing to think about. If you measure run out and it's not damned low, that expensive SE cam plate is going to get fuked up just like the stock cam plate... That's a waste of a lot of beer money.
 
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