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Discussion Starter #1
After playing with my crane cams lifters and learning all kinds of different valve train noises I am considering getting the S&S premiums. I have SE adjustable pushrods. how many turns down will make the premiums work? After playing with Chevy 350 lifters I can say I shouldn't have tried to cheap out on the lifters. Just a poor white boy in a cruel world trying to save a buck. Thanks for the help. NORM
 

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I believe with the Harley adjustables it is 4 full turns. If you get the S&S with limiters you do the same but after bleed down you then shorten 1 full turn. I'm sure some of the more qualified engine guys will chime in.
 

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My SE pushrods non-taperd type said in the paper work 2.5 turns but I got some noise, called S&S they told me turn to 3.25 to 3.50 adjustment I did and all noise was gone, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Norm, you don't need to buy the premiums. The standards are quiet as a mouse. Are you sure you are chasing lifter noise?


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I'm pretty sure. I've learned that with these lifters they bottom out at 3 turns and a flat. I had them down tight. A friend of mine who is a Harley tech told me to loosen them up a flat or two because it was making valve spring noise. That being said. I readjusted the whole thing again at 1 1/2 turns down or 6 flats. Now the lifters themselves are making the noise. It kind of reminds me of the noise I had when I ran roller rockers on a Boss 302 I built way back when AND there is still a slight tic but I think it's coming from the lifter. I'm thinking of taking all the heat shields off my pipes to make sure that's not the issue. I wish I could have my pipes ceramic coated. I'm not sure if that can be done once the pipes have been used I love the Rhinehart pipes and muffler performance wise but the damn heat shields always seem to rattle.

I thought if I bought premiums now it would help me in the future if I continued playing with the motor which is extremely likely now that I've had my first taste of Harley performance. I love the 57H cam. I need to set my rev extender on my PCV. The motor breaths and pulls hard and wants to go past the 5k rpm redline. Power in is instantaneous from 3000 on up. Anywho. The valve train is a lot quieter with these lifters set at 6 flats. I'll ride it until I can spring for the premiums. Who knows. I may be running a turbo next. lol.
 

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I'm pretty sure. I've learned that with these lifters they bottom out at 3 turns and a flat. I had them down tight. A friend of mine who is a Harley tech told me to loosen them up a flat or two because it was making valve spring noise. That being said. I readjusted the whole thing again at 1 1/2 turns down or 6 flats. Now the lifters themselves are making the noise. It kind of reminds me of the noise I had when I ran roller rockers on a Boss 302 I built way back when AND there is still a slight tic but I think it's coming from the lifter. I'm thinking of taking all the heat shields off my pipes to make sure that's not the issue. I wish I could have my pipes ceramic coated. I'm not sure if that can be done once the pipes have been used I love the Rhinehart pipes and muffler performance wise but the damn heat shields always seem to rattle.

I thought if I bought premiums now it would help me in the future if I continued playing with the motor which is extremely likely now that I've had my first taste of Harley performance. I love the 57H cam. I need to set my rev extender on my PCV. The motor breaths and pulls hard and wants to go past the 5k rpm redline. Power in is instantaneous from 3000 on up. Anywho. The valve train is a lot quieter with these lifters set at 6 flats. I'll ride it until I can spring for the premiums. Who knows. I may be running a turbo next. lol.
There is no adj. pushrods made that are only 1 1/2 turns for adjustment. Look up your pushrods and see how many threads per inch. You want your lifters set at approximately 1/2 depth of the lifter (distance from bottomed out to fully up on the cup. I sometimes because of the ramps on the cam I'm using go another 1/2 turn in to quieten them down.
 

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There is no adj. pushrods made that are only 1 1/2 turns for adjustment. Look up your pushrods and see how many threads per inch. You want your lifters set at approximately 1/2 depth of the lifter (distance from bottomed out to fully up on the cup. I sometimes because of the ramps on the cam I'm using go another 1/2 turn in to quieten them down.
+1 on that for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm glad my thinking was strait then. When I figured that bottomed out was 3 turns one flat my thought was to cut the distance in half. I'll add this one to experience. I may give Larry's a try. I like that he has a groove machined in to lube the pin. Larry's motorcycle machine
 

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Are you sure it's valve train noise you're hearing & not reversion from your 57H cam? Plenty of posts about that cam causing reversion noises.
SE pushrods are generally 24tpi. I believe the instructions call for 2.5 turns from zero lash. Like Smarty sez, get em set half way down into the lifter, which is usually around .100". You can go a little deeper possibly, but find that sweet spot.
I ran a set of AMS Johnson Hylift lifters in my old bike & I initially set the rods at 3 turns from zero. Those lifters didn't like that & were bottoming out. I backed off the rods to 2.5 & all was nice & quiet.
Lil Chief
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll give these one more shot I guess but I can already feel a new set of lifters burning a hole in my pocket.
 

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I'll give these one more shot I guess but I can already feel a new set of lifters burning a hole in my pocket.
If your pushrods are not adjusted correctly then new lifters will not do much. These things are not sewing machines, and adding higher lift cams can cause noise. I run comp cam lifters and s&s pushrods and only noise I have is from the throttle plate behind the air filter due to the cams overlap.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks night train. 3 more flats should get me there. My thinking was that a car lifter isn't collapsed this much when it's put in so maybe it would perform the way it should when only loaded a little bit. What causes lifter "tick"?
 

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Thanks night train. 3 more flats should get me there. My thinking was that a car lifter isn't collapsed this much when it's put in so maybe it would perform the way it should when only loaded a little bit. What causes lifter "tick"?
How many turns are you right now from zero lash now? Most lifters have .2 of travel. Your have se which are .041 of an inch per turn of the push rod. Most shoot for .100.-130 deep into lifter from zero lash. 3 turns from zero lash will put you at .125 deep. Once I get zero lash I take a paint pen and mark the the push rod then count turns as I lengthen the pushrod.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was doing that too. I tried 3 turns down and the ticking was loud on the top end. I overcompensated the other way and started at 0 and turned it down 1 1/2 turns. I'll try it again at 2 turns. If this shit were easy everyone would be doing it. :grin: I'm having fun while learning and love the way the bike runs now. I just got to get the valve train calmed down and I'll be happier. I'm already obsessed with turbos and I don't even have 100 miles on the new cams. I'm enjoying the journey and that's what counts.
 

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im running woods 777 and the melling lifters with the screaming eagle pushrods. i adjusted the pop off valve correctly to make everything jive correctly..The mellings have a tich smaller hole might be your issue also..watch the oil pressure i have also ran every lifter ever made...i prefer the mellings...2 billion small blocks cant be wrong lol
 

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I can tell ya that 1.5 turns is too shallow. Try the SE recommended setting of 2.5 turns from zero lash & give it a whirl. Always make sure the lifters are in their lowest position on the cam when you are adjustimg the pushrods.
Lil Chief
 

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I can tell ya that 1.5 turns is too shallow. Try the SE recommended setting of 2.5 turns from zero lash & give it a whirl. Always make sure the lifters are in their lowest position on the cam when you are adjustimg the pushrods.
Lil Chief
And don't go on to another pushrod until you can turn the one you just adjusted with your fingers.
 

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Installed S&S premiums with SE adjustable non tapered pushrods in my bike 2 weeks ago and set them at 3 turns. Threads are 24 tpi. Divide 1" by 24 and its gives you .041 per turn. Shoot for .100 depth. .100÷ .041= 2.5 turns. I set mine just a little deeper at 3 turns. The same calculations work with other pushrods, just substitute the correct tpi for whatever brand of pushrod you are using
 

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Installed S&S premiums with SE adjustable non tapered pushrods in my bike 2 weeks ago and set them at 3 turns. Threads are 24 tpi. Divide 1" by 24 and its gives you .041 per turn. Shoot for .100 depth. .100÷ .041= 2.5 turns. I set mine just a little deeper at 3 turns. The same calculations work with other pushrods, just substitute the correct tpi for whatever brand of pushrod you are using
You are exactly right. It is very important to have the lifters on the base circle, lengthen the pushrod until you can't wiggle it up and down at all, no tighter, no looser. Then mark the pushrod. I would turn the pushrods 3 complete turns and lock them down. When you can twist the push rods with your fingers, move to the other cylinder and repeat. Button it up and ride it. It will be fine.
 

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You are exactly right. It is very important to have the lifters on the base circle, lengthen the pushrod until you can't wiggle it up and down at all, no tighter, no looser. Then mark the pushrod. I would turn the pushrods 3 complete turns and lock them down. When you can twist the push rods with your fingers, move to the other cylinder and repeat. Button it up and ride it. It will be fine.
Most definitely need to make sure you are on the base circle and when you make your adjustment from zero to 3 flats or whatever your number may be the pushrods will no longer spin free with your fingers. Wait 5 minutes of so till the lifter bleeds down and you can spin the pushrod with your fingers again before rolling the motor through to do the other cyl. Don't skip that step. I like jobs that have built in break time....:laugh:
 
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