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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 RG custom. I am slowly losing juice when the bike is off. If it is not on a tender the battery will be to low to start the bike in a couple days. I have used a light and disconnected the battery, and pulled each fuse and relay one at a time, and light stayed on the entire time. My question is what else could be drawing juice? When we were up at sturgis last year I noticed a funny smell after I started it once, and it seemed to come from up around the power switch. Could it short there, or could a messed up voltage regulator do this?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!!
 

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Generally speaking, if there is a short, something is not goijg to work. Touring bikes have a parasitic draw on the battery, so theres a chance your battery is shot, especially if its the original one.

Lil Chief
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This battery is a year old, I pulled it from the bike for a hour, and the voltage actually went up by about 1/2 of a volt
 

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You need to use an ammeter in place of the test light to check parasidic draw. I'm not sure how much is too much, but anything over .5 amps is definitely too much, shouldn't be more than milliamps.
 

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My bet is the Battery as well, in today's electrical circuits the battery plays an important role. It does far more than just start the bike these days if the battery is not pulling the correct current from the stator it will mess the whole circuit. I had the same issue a couple of months ago w/ my 2012 RGC!
 

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My best guess would be the battery as well, however I don't endorse replacing parts without confirming that they are defective, especially at over $100 a pop.

I have heard that AutoZone and Advance Auto will load test your battery for free, but can not confirm that.

You can get a cheap DVOM from Harbor Freight or Wally World that will do the parisitic draw test, just make sure it has a 10amp ammeter function.
 

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If you have a short, a fuse has blown. Once a fuse blows there is no drain on a battery.

What you are describing is a parasitic draw like others have already said.

You first need to have your battery tested to make sure it is still good.

Once you determine that you have a good battery, you need to disconnect the negative terminal and put an amp meter in the circuit by connecting one lead to the negative battery terminal and another lead to the negative battery cable. Have the Amp Meter set to 10 Amps to start out with.

Make sure everything is off on the bike including the ignition. It is normal to have a milliamp draw due to the clock and other electronics. If you have 1 amp or greater you have an issue. Keep looking at the amp meter and pull one fuse at a time until you see the amps drop down to the milliamp range. When this happens you have found the circuit that is in question.

Now you have to get out the circuit diagram and figure out what to check next. Good luck.
 

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I have a 2013 RG custom. I am slowly losing juice when the bike is off. If it is not on a tender the battery will be to low to start the bike in a couple days. I have used a light and disconnected the battery, and pulled each fuse and relay one at a time, and light stayed on the entire time. My question is what else could be drawing juice? When we were up at sturgis last year I noticed a funny smell after I started it once, and it seemed to come from up around the power switch. Could it short there, or could a messed up voltage regulator do this?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!!
My question is how does the light stay on with the battery disconnected? I assume you are talking about a test light that still lights up after the battery is unhooked. The only part in the bike that has a capacitor is the alarm and that is why when the battery is unhooked the alarm will go off until the stored energy in the capacitor is drained. I'm going to go with the battery going bad, just because the battery is only a year old doesn't mean it isn't going bad. You never know some batteries last a long time and some don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The bike has no alarm system, and yes the test light stayed lit with all the fuses and relays pulled
 

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Well there's your problem, if your battery tests ok. Get a DVOM with 10 amp ammeter function and check the draw as twowheeladict recommend. If over 1amp you're going to have to hunt it down. Gonna be a tough one to find I imagine. I suspect that since you don't have a short to ground, you have some corrosion creating a high resistance path to ground. Hook up your test light between the ground cable and neg battery terminal (with cable disconnected) pull all the fuses and go thru the harness and ground connections, wiggle them while watching the light. The test light should react when you disturb the bad connection. Check first in the area between the battery+ and the fuse block.
 

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My question is how does the light stay on with the battery disconnected? I assume you are talking about a test light that still lights up after the battery is unhooked. The only part in the bike that has a capacitor is the alarm and that is why when the battery is unhooked the alarm will go off until the stored energy in the capacitor is drained. I'm going to go with the battery going bad, just because the battery is only a year old doesn't mean it isn't going bad. You never know some batteries last a long time and some don't.
He was testing for parasidic draw with test light connected in series with battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have no alarm on the bike. Yes with the ground disconnected and using the light to check for a draw.
 

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if you pulled all the fuses and relays and no change in the test light look at the things that are not protected by a fuse (ie) ignition switch etc.
 

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The bike has no alarm system, and yes the test light stayed lit with all the fuses and relays pulled
OK! So you didn't unhook the battery, then even with the fuses and relays pulled the fuse block will have a hot terminal and a cold terminal. Did you find a cold terminal energized? If you did then there is a short in the fuse block.
 
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