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Based on this thread (http://www.roadglide.org/showthread.php?t=159433), and others I get that there MAY be some loose spring or maybe the auto-tensioner isn't auto-tensioning?

The dealer gave me the "its normal" spiel. If I were to pull the primary cover this winter, what would I look for in terms of evidence of impending failure?

I don't get the 'shutdown clunk' people describe, but I have occasionally got the 'hard start' others have described, where it sound slike the whole thing binded up for a sec when turning it over.
 

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Do you get a grinding noise when trying to start sometimes? Metal shavings on the drain plug. You can adjust the tensioner by accelerating in 1st to 30 mph apply rear brake till it almost stalls without pulling in the clutch.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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There is no need to tighten the primary chain prematurely. The stock tensioner will ratchet tighter as necessary. If you intentionally create slack in the chain to tighten the tensioner you will put excess strain on the inner primary bearing and transmission main bearing.

That is the problem with the stock tensioner. It will tighten, but it won't loosen without disassembly.
 

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don't accept the its normal Harley crap. get it in. it will destroy your clutch hub and eventually your crank. mines in right now at the dealer completely against my will for all the repairs. only because its under warranty and im tired of flipping the bill for their under engineered crap.
 

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ok thanks. Im a sucker so I needed to make sure :)

D.
To loosen, do the same in reverse. :D
+1 on what hullhorr said.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No grinding noise when starting. Except that it seems like it'll bind and I have to turn it over again. I've read the how-to tighten the chain procedure, but had reservations that hullhorr mentioned.

There were metal shavings on the plug when I changed the oil at 5k, but only "a little amount". Maybe I'll make a trip down to the dealer where I got it (the local ones seem retarded).

@waynemags: Is that kind of abnormal wear visible with only pulling the cover off? I don't mind pulling the cover to know I have a problem, but disassembling anything else would likely have be causing more trouble than I started with.
 

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No grinding noise when starting. Except that it seems like it'll bind and I have to turn it over again. I've read the how-to tighten the chain procedure, but had reservations that hullhorr mentioned.

There were metal shavings on the plug when I changed the oil at 5k, but only "a little amount". Maybe I'll make a trip down to the dealer where I got it (the local ones seem retarded).

@waynemags: Is that kind of abnormal wear visible with only pulling the cover off? I don't mind pulling the cover to know I have a problem, but disassembling anything else would likely have be causing more trouble than I started with.
you will be able to see the wear on the ramps without tearing compensator apart. its pretty simple to get the comp apart and its not gonna cause any more problem than you already have. you can take the nut off with a breaker bar and reassemble without taking whole primary chain and everything out. just make sure to put a zip tie around the auto tensioner before you take the nut off. that way it stays under tension and you can put the comp sprocket back on and the chain with no issues. torque engine bolt to 140 ft lbs
 

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you will be able to see the wear on the ramps without tearing compensator apart. its pretty simple to get the comp apart and its not gonna cause any more problem than you already have. you can take the nut off with a breaker bar and reassemble without taking whole primary chain and everything out. just make sure to put a zip tie around the auto tensioner before you take the nut off. that way it stays under tension and you can put the comp sprocket back on and the chain with no issues. torque engine bolt to 140 ft lbs
On 07 and up touring bike's I thought the comp sprocket torque was 175 Lb pd's
 

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Discussion Starter #13
you will be able to see the wear on the ramps without tearing compensator apart. its pretty simple to get the comp apart and its not gonna cause any more problem than you already have. you can take the nut off with a breaker bar and reassemble without taking whole primary chain and everything out. just make sure to put a zip tie around the auto tensioner before you take the nut off. that way it stays under tension and you can put the comp sprocket back on and the chain with no issues. torque engine bolt to 140 ft lbs
Thanks for the vote of confidence. :D

I would need something to lock the gears in place while removing or reassembling in there ya? Like this thing? Or something fabbed up like it anyway.
 

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Thanks for the vote of confidence. :D

I would need something to lock the gears in place while removing or reassembling in there ya? Like this thing? Or something fabbed up like it anyway.
assuming yours is the same setup as my 12 compensator, you can use a bigger wrench that will fit that large nut that's part of the sprocket and have it rest on the floor while you break the bolt loose. same as when reassembling. that's about the only upside to this POS setup.
 

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So i've noted the wear on my ramps and some wear on the pulley itself. I've got the flat spots on each of the surfaces, etc.

However, i dont have any drivability issues, no abnormal noises, etc.

So what's the concern with wear on that part? It seems like it would have to be exceptionally bad in order to have any drivability issues.
 

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Thanks for the vote of confidence. :D

I would need something to lock the gears in place while removing or reassembling in there ya? Like this thing? Or something fabbed up like it anyway.
DO NOT EVER USE THE STEPPED LOCKER, IT HAS BEEN FOUND TO BE DESTROYING CRANK BEARINGS PER THE MOTOR COMPANY!!!

Something like this
is what you should be using. At this price, I would also recommend against making your own unless you are REALLY good at fabrication. This one is rounded precisely to fit into the sprockets without gouging them. You have to swap it back and forth depending on whether you are loosening or tightening.
 

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If you have the comp with the T-70 center bolt the torque is 175 ft. lbs.
I have an 01 Dyna and if I remember correctly there torque spec is 155 lbs.

I can't see the latest comp being torqued to 175 and the stock comp to 145. Don't always trust the manual as there are mistakes in them.
 
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