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Discussion Starter #1
40,000 miles on the 13 RGU and after the last service, she slips in 5th gear. wondering if it's time to replace the clutch plates. also looking at the AIM Variable pressure systems. Ideas from the peanut gallery?
 

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Before you start replacing everything I'd suggest adjusting the clutch and see what happens. Not hard to do and it's free if you are able to do it yourself
 

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Adjusting the clutch is easy. In addition to a new derby cover gasket you'll need an 11/16" offset wrench. It makes the job much easier. If you don't have one already you can swing by Home Depot and pick up a set for $25.

Husky MM Offset Double Box-End Wrench Set (5-Piece)-HDODBEW5PCMM - The Home Depot

The first time you open the lock nut it might be pretty tight from the factory. Put the bike in gear and put the front wheel up against a wall so it doesn't roll forward. If you can't get it up against something solid then have someone sit on it and apply both brakes. You can use a deep socket and breaker bar to open the nut but you'll need the box wrench to tighten it back up because you'll need to keep the Allen wrench on the adjuster while you lock it down

There's a couple of good videos on the ole 'Tube
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I thought about that but since it's only slipping in 5th, wasn't too sure adjusting it would help. Might give it a try, though if the suggestions don't prove helpful. I guess a better question is, How much mileage should one expect to get on the factory clutch, accounting for average riding, average weight, and steady throttle hand? Hoe long did your OEM clutch last and how did it fail?
 

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I thought about that but since it's only slipping in 5th, wasn't too sure adjusting it would help. Might give it a try, though if the suggestions don't prove helpful. I guess a better question is, How much mileage should one expect to get on the factory clutch, accounting for average riding, average weight, and steady throttle hand? Hoe long did your OEM clutch last and how did it fail?
Before it slips anymore, buy you a screaming eagle diaphragm spring. It will solve your problem if you haven't glazed your plates. Worth a try and a cheap fix.
 

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Smarty is right, it won't get better, only start to wear down.
The so called "diagram places positive pressure on pack enabling
full power transfer, lack of is that slip and must be dealt with.

I've replaced a few, and metrics too........

Ok, from spanking nrw never have even adjusted the clutch and it's Never sliped
In our 03 flt (100k+), if it did I'd at least put another SE on top the basket, you should ck your frictions and clean your steals while your sitting on your staring at it, not many beer of a job...oh and I've been using the same gasket from go, never a leak
 

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I guess a better question is, How much mileage should one expect to get on the factory clutch, accounting for average riding, average weight, and steady throttle hand? Hoe long did your OEM clutch last and how did it fail?

I'm at 65,000 on my 2011.

I agree with the suggestion to open the derby and adjust it. If that fixes it, you saved some money to use on other things.
 

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I've been using the same gasket from go, never a leak
I've wondered about that. The original gasket looked fine when I first took it off. I've replaced it both times I've opened the primary but I've put seals and gaskets back on bikes with really sketchy service history. I think I'm going back to the rubber one next time and leaving it on a while. Even if it starts to weep a little it's pretty easy to find another and replace it.
 

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I've wondered about that. The original gasket looked fine when I first took it off. I've replaced it both times I've opened the primary but I've put seals and gaskets back on bikes with really sketchy service history. I think I'm going back to the rubber one next time and leaving it on a while. Even if it starts to weep a little it's pretty easy to find another and replace it.

I have 65,000 miles on my bike. I'm still using the original rubber "O" ring gasket. No leaks.
 

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Slipping in 5th

I had noticed the same thing after my last fluids change and clutch adjustment. I had noticed some minor slipping after having a good dyno done, but would just do a clutch adjustment and all seemed ok.

I just ordered the Screamin Eagle clutch spring, will install that when i get the chance and go from there. From what Ive read and gathered from others this should fix the slipping. From the looks of it, it can be accomplished through the derby cover with out removing the outer primary?
 

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I guess a better question is, How much mileage should one expect to get on the factory clutch, accounting for average riding, average weight, and steady throttle hand?
Uhhh, I'm not sure what any of that is! I'm a fan of doing field events with my bike (like the slow ride - very hard on the clutch) as well as some quick take-offs, a little tire smoke, the occasional wheel-stand, power shifts, etc. Someone told me ride it like ya stole it and I thought they were serious.... LOL

Given my riding style I've always replaced the factory stuff once it starts to slip in the big gears for something better. I ended up with an Alto Carbonite clutch setup and a Barnett Heavy-Duty diaphragm spring in my last bike and it was the best clutch setup I've ever had.

For normal riding like you mentioned, good riding habits, good clutch adjustment, and perhaps the Heavy-Duty spring and it should last for a very long time.
 

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I thought about that but since it's only slipping in 5th, wasn't too sure adjusting it would help. Might give it a try, though if the suggestions don't prove helpful. I guess a better question is, How much mileage should one expect to get on the factory clutch, accounting for average riding, average weight, and steady throttle hand? Hoe long did your OEM clutch last and how did it fail?
The stock clutches are pretty durable. Keep it adjused properly and it should last awhile. I'm 300+lbs with a bone stock 96" motor that I've been beatin on since new and I have zero problems with the clutch. It's got 45k hard miles on it
 

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my 13 RG slipped and I took it to the dealer for adjustment. Afterwards it was worse, so I brought it back in, and still was slipping. I finally adjusted it myself. No more slipping. I adjusted the cable so that a nickel on end will fit between the end of the cable and the handle. That fixed it. I had no free play. Odd thing is the adjustment barrel in front of the engine, turns exactly opposite to what I expected it would to loosen it.
It seem counter intuitive to me at least, but once I got that figured out, I was good to go. I do plan on replacing the stock spring with the SE in time. I have to get my heads installed first and see how the stock clutch handles it.
 

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Oh I agree adjusting it for disengagement and play, though the strength, or better...when the convex becomes concave easier
thru exercise or becomes flat, your wearing into the friction

You need it positive to go forward and stay positive and still be able separate when needed

Too many words for under pressure, worn out on this
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I had noticed the same thing after my last fluids change and clutch adjustment. I had noticed some minor slipping after having a good dyno done, but would just do a clutch adjustment and all seemed ok.

I just ordered the Screamin Eagle clutch spring, will install that when i get the chance and go from there. From what Ive read and gathered from others this should fix the slipping. From the looks of it, it can be accomplished through the derby cover with out removing the outer primary?
The quick answer is , uh,no. You can adjust the clutch through the inspection cover, but in order to replace the clutch spring plate and/or the friction disks and steels, you have to remove the outer primary cover. Ask me how I know! I got the spring plate from my local HD for less than $40.00, but had to order the SE clutch pack (friction plates and steels) for under $170.00 Have to wait a week for them to come in. Which is a good thing actually because I'm going to replace the stock primary chain adjuster with the Hayden M6 (which I ordered today as well). I had one on my older FXR and the difference was night and Day. Granted the FXR didn't have an adjuster stock, but with the stories I've heard from the gallery, about the stock HD unit failing, I figured that as long as I have the primary cover off.... What the heck, go with a known product.

Now for the rest of the story.... If you've been following this saga from the beginning you know that the trouble started with the trans slipping in 5th after the last dealer service. I decided to take a couple of members advice and do a couple of things. First, adjust the clutch, according to the factory service manual, and second, order the heavy duty clutch spring (and while I'm in the primary, why not install a new SE clutch pack (friction plates and steels) and a new Hayden M6 primary chain tensioner to replace the factory one). While waiting for the clutch pack to come in I decided to do the adjustment so that I didn't screw up the clutch any further riding it as is so.... I tackled the adjustment last night and figured that since I have the cover off I might as well try to replace the spring with the heavy duty one I got from the dealer. Sorry, that is a no-go through the inspection cover. Have to take off the outer primary to do this young padawan. OK, no problem, I reinstalled the clutch spring and adjusted the clutch per factory service manual. Button up the inspection plate and WTF? yep, you guessed it, one of the screw holes is stripped out! Now, I've had the glide serviced at the dealer since new, 40,000k over the past three years, which is 8 services. Everyone requiring a clutch inspection/adjustment, so when I go to put the inspection cover back on and find that hole stripped I'm just a tad irritated. Now I know that I've never had the cover off, but whadda you want to bet that after I get finished reaming out the dealer he tries to tell me it's my fault. As a helicopter mechanic for Uncle Sams flying club for 22 years, I know a little bit about wrenching and yes I !have a totally bitchin' set of tools and know how to use 'em. I'll keep ya posted when I get the new plates and spring installed to let you know how the dealer handles it. for now....
 
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