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I've looked all over the web regarding this and got some basic info but wanted to put these questions out there. Maybe it will help others too.

I've always had a beam style foot-pounds torque wrench and, more recently, got a clicker style inch-pounds wrench. For me, the beam style is a no brainer. After just about stripping out one derby cover hole using the clicker which, I learned, sometimes didn't click, I'm gun shy about tightening things into aluminum. I chucked the clicker and last week got a beam style inch pounds wrench so all is cool there.

I'm no stranger to using a torque wrench. Yesterday, replaced my spark plugs. Did it while the engine was still hot (have since learned maybe not the best to do) about 1 hour after a decent highway ride. Used Permatax anti-seize. Put them in by hand then ratchet pre-crush. Used my beam style wrench for crush and beyond, and it seemed each took about maybe 3/4 of a turn to finally make it to 10 foot pounds. They didn't seem to be getting tight all that quickly so, being gun shy, and the engine hot, I left it at that.

1. Is it normal to go this far past ratchet pre-crush to get to spec? The manual says 12-18 but I don't want to strip anything. I know this is a basic question for you advanced wrenches but your knowledge would help.
2. Also, I realize that the 10-15 range on a larger beam style torque wrench isn't all that accurate but I can't find a mid range foot-pounds beam style maybe up to a max of 80. Does anyone know if something like this is made so lower torques like 10-15 would be more accurate?

Thanks from Highway (beam style torque wrench lover) Star
 

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This is just an opinion, so take it as you want. 10 pounds is not enough to get the required crush on the washer. I use 15, as it's in the middle of the torque range.

As far as anti-seize....... are you using copper anti-seize? If not, you should. It conducts better.

I too, am a fan of beam style torque wrenches.
 
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