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Hey, just wanted to update everyone on my stator/tensioner deal, in case someone else had similar issues. The people on this site have saved me a lot of money, time, and heartache, so if this info helps someone, great!

Replaced burnt stator with Cycle Electric 58 amp (vs.50A stock) unit, and a Drag Specialties regulator. Wanted the CE regulator, but could not find. Ordered through J&P, minimal crap and no BS on shipping, tracking, and getting to me. Buttoned it all back together, the CE unit comes with new stator screws, recommended to be replaced because of preapplied locktight. Nice, but I understand you could use the originals, can just clean them and reapply blue locktite. I did order a James Gasket (Amazon) for the primary, but reused the original with no issues or leaks after 50 miles. I did grind my primary case a few millimeters to remove the rotor without disassembling the clutch, case, etc. I did use a Dremel with an open flute bit, and covered all the inner workings with an oil soaked absorbent pad to catch the filings. Another idea might be the shop vac, pulling filings as you go. Really have to wonder if this is done to make a certain number of people put it all in a basket and take it to a dealer for repairs. I was careful to gently chamfer the edges, not leaving a sharp corner. Everything went back fine, did put a little RTV silicone on the electrical connector where it comes out of the case. Seems to help it slip into place and settle out better, and I’m not up for leaks. When I first started the bike, I was surprised at the volt meter going way over to 14 volts. Yes, where it is supposed to be. I guess I got used to seeing it at 13 or so, and I’m guessing I had a problem coming on for a while. I am pretty meticulous on maintenance, but totally ignored this one. My advice would be to check the output voltage, etc. at oil changes, and avoid a surprise! This was probably further masked by me plugging the Battery Tender up religiously, keeping the battery topped off. Otherwise a sluggish start or dead battery would have had me looking.

The Hayden tensioner was put on with no shims, and it is a little snug when measuring the 3/8. Blipping the throttle from idle results in more of a clunk than before, my guess is the additional spring action allowed by the Hayden. Not sure I’m happy with it, but plan on doing about 500 miles and then rechecking everything. If anyone has experience or advice on my setup (super duper tire shreader stage 1, FP3 tuner, stock compensator, Hayden/stock tensioner) I’ll take any advice. Quite frankly, my stock tensioner was working fine, not too tight, minimal wear, and so far the Hayden has resulted in more noise and no quieting of shifts from neutral.

Hope this info is helpful to someone. Stay safe!

David
 

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I installed a Hayden on my 103. Also used no shims but I still felt the unit kept the chain too tight. The shoe wore quickly and never quieted down. Hayden sent me a new shoe and revised springs but I chose to go with the Baker manual adjuster instead. I really like the baker but I don't mind opening the primary and checking it now and then. Just my 2 cents. Hayden has many happy customers out there and are a reputable company.
 
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I installed a Hayden on my 103. Also used no shims but I still felt the unit kept the chain too tight. The shoe wore quickly and never quieted down. Hayden sent me a new shoe and revised springs but I chose to go with the Baker manual adjuster instead. I really like the baker but I don't mind opening the primary and checking it now and then. Just my 2 cents. Hayden has many happy customers out there and are a reputable company.
 

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I run a Hayden tensioner with a solid compensator sprocket on my 124 twin cam and I will say it does make the primary a little noisy. The Hayden shoe does wear pretty quickly. I'm on my 2 shoe in about 4 years
 

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I also had the Hayden and like @Bruckus and @rlaf75 stated it was noisy and the chain ground into the shoe. I also changed to the Baker manual adjustable and couldn’t be happier. It’s an extremely well made piece.
Mike U.


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I had an inner primary bearing issue caused by an overtightened chain. So I replaced the factory tensioner with the Drag Specialties tensioner. It has worked well. I have about 8,000 miles on it and looked at it over the winter and the wear was minimal.
 
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