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2010 FLTRX, 96 No Mo, Plain Jane
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While riding my bike, I started noticing a drip here in a drip there under the bike, the drip has seem to have gotten worse and just now leaving its mark, I took purple Power degreaser, which by the way is brutal, and sprayed it all underneath the bike, took the bike for test drive and when I got back, it was still leaking, the leak seems to be coming from what I believed to be a stator wire grommet,
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As you can tell the Degreaser took off paint off the engine motor LOL, that is the stator wire correct?, and that wire connects directly to the stator is that correct?, if so how do you replace the boot, without tearing the whole dam thing apart?
Is there a trick to bypass total disassembly?
Ok gurus let me something....
 

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Yep that's the wire that goes from the stator to the voltage regulator.
If I remember right that boot is molded on the wiring harness to prevent leakage so the wire harness would need replacement.
I would first try using some good automotive silicone and try to seal the boot first before buying a new harness.
You should be able to pull the boot out without taking anything apart and clean it up and use some Permatex in the grooves of the boot and put it back in and give it a day to set up.
The oil you see is primary oil not engine oil.
If the boot doesn't come out the front then you'll need to pull the primary cover and unplug the wire harness from the VR and do the repair inside the primary. The wire from the stator to the boot doesn't have much slack so you probably have to pull the primary cover .

Mark
 

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that is the stator wire correct?
Yes, and boot is molded to the wire, not a separate part. Some have had luck with squirting sealer in there. I just let mine leak until the dripping got bad enough to annoy me (took about 4 years), and then replaced the stator.
 

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You should be able to pull the boot out without taking anything apart and clean it up
There is a large-ish block/stop on the inside molded into that, and the internal wires are a bit short - I would not try pulling it out.
 
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To remove it, the flange has to go back into the primary. The you can clean it and apply some sealer. Most that have been in service for a while, wont stand for being forced back through the primary.

To patch it, just have the third hand pull out on the harness so as to open the gap between the taper and the case. Clean it with brake clean and compressed air, several times. The work some black rtv into the gap. Let it start to cure, 5 min, then release the tension on the harness. Let it sit over night to fully cure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do not know what they are called, Sorry for the ignorance on my part. But I was thinking if I separated the plug that goes into the regulator no laughing, douche tool connector is that what is needed to push the pins out? No Massengale jokes, just trying to figure out how to push the pins out of the connector,

Thermodyne
Break out the Creoles for me, draw me a better picture for somebody stupid, I'm afraid if I try pulling the boot out I will tear something. Like the wire that plugs into the stator, as long as I've owned Harleys, I have never had good luck with Staters compensators and all the other shit that goes when you got a tear down a fucking primary, so I'm hoping I can come up with some Backwoods ******* idea to make this okay, my garage is carpeted so it took me a while to really catch on to this.
 

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When I stared riding everything leaked all the time, just pretend that you are back in the bad old days with a drip pan under your bike.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Ahhh “The Good Old Days!”
Yes indeed Harley’s we’re known to leak oil everywhere.
If they didn’t then the oil tank was empty.
Mike U.
 

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I do not know what they are called, Sorry for the ignorance on my part. But I was thinking if I separated the plug that goes into the regulator no laughing, douche tool connector is that what is needed to push the pins out? No Massengale jokes, just trying to figure out how to push the pins out of the connector,

Thermodyne
Break out the Creoles for me, draw me a better picture for somebody stupid, I'm afraid if I try pulling the boot out I will tear something. Like the wire that plugs into the stator, as long as I've owned Harleys, I have never had good luck with Staters compensators and all the other shit that goes when you got a tear down a fucking primary, so I'm hoping I can come up with some Backwoods *** idea to make this okay, my garage is carpeted so it took me a while to really catch on to this.
If you just pull on the wires, the visible portion of that bung should pull away from the case a little. Allowing you to clean the oil out of the contact area, and force some sealer in. If the material has lost all of its flex and turned to hard plastic, then it won't move.

I have taken those things apart and cut the failed bungs off of them, then run the wires back through the hole with a little piece of hose on them and sealed it all up with rtv.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another question pertaining the compensator, what do they mean by 34 teeth is that not what comes stock?
Is there a reason I should spend the 350 bucks for a Screamin Eagle compensator, or Baker or any other brand for that matter?
And if you do suggest replacing the compensator, which one do I need to get?
 

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Great answers guys!!! Why I love this forum so much. Thats a chore getting to the stator too.

Besides the obvious of it being an 11 year bike and most likely a 11 year old stator.....trying to not over think this....but im going to anyway...Why extra pressure in the primary?........is your breather tube clean? It should be next to the starter towards the back of the inner primary housing might check that obstructions. Just an overthinking thought....oh and to add to the overthinking....is the crank seal leaking causing the crankcase oil to leak into the primary making the oil level too high? If you're going to open up the primary be sure to torque that compensator back down to spec!!
 

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Besides the obvious of it being an 11 year bike and most likely a 11 year old stator.....
Yepper, that's enough to do it. There really isn't much of a seal to the seal, so it ain't hard to kill it (heat, vibration, time..).
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Fucked up part about this, is my charging system is working perfectly, it's like Harley and ford with their better ideas, so I'm kind of pissy to the fact that I would have to spend that fucking much money on a grommet thats leaking....
Just sayin....... the more I read into this the more pissed off I get, I will try to pull out the grommet a little bit and clean it up and put a little bit of black Permatex around it.

And yes the bike is 11 years old but it has been painstakingly and meticulously takin care of, example one really good weekend of hard riding, and it gets a fluid change, in all three holes, regardless of whether I just changed it a couple of weeks before, anytime I change my fluids they look just as clear as the day I put them in, in
An I over obsessive probably,
I am just in awe, on how something like a rubber grommet, can set you back hundreds of dollars....
Harley must have hired a Ford engineer, for the stator wire
Shaking head sideways still pissed off and I refuse to go to the fucking corner!!
 

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Fucked up part about this, is my charging system is working perfectly, it's like Harley and ford with their better ideas, so I'm kind of pissy to the fact that I would have to spend that fucking much money on a grommet thats leaking....
And that's why I let mine drip for 4 years - I was hoping the damn stator would fail to justify changing it ...Nope!

Now it just sits on a shelf as a spare if one of the guys I ride with needs it in an emergency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I cleaned up the area around the grommet, then I squirted black Permatex all around it, more like gooped it on, gonna let it set till morning,
Joker,
If I weren't so fucking OCD, I could let it slide, but I am....
I am OCD to a point of loosing sleep, just waiting for the Permatex to dry!!
And yess just walking up to the bike, seeing a drip, everytime I get on the bike,
Will work on me till I either get the drip to stop, or I break down and buy a new stator, then of course I gonna want to change the compensator, inner primary bolt kit, new seals, and it just keeps adding up,
The only silver lining to this whole dilemma, at least I don't have to buy some Harley-Davidson or a Jim's tool to work on it, and I upgraded my clutch a long time ago, so I am OK there,
My Avalanche is down right now, waiting on upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, hubs, and sway bar links, and brakes and rotors. I have received most of the parts but I'm still waiting on a few parts before I start working on the Avalanche, my 77 square body, is down its needs front brakes and maybe new rotors, and now it is brought to my attention that my Glide is leaking,

My mom is in a senior Assisted Living program for Alzheimer's, at 3,400 dollars a month, it has put a strain on everything I do, money wise,
As i see my retirement funds, dwindling away, I see normal things like maintenance on my trucks and bike be put on hold, till they are so bad I have to addressed them.... wich is were I am right now.....the Glide is my only source of transportation, till all the parts show up for both trucks, wich is about 2 weeks......
Ok stop with the rambling, and just deal with it!!!
 

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Mine leaked from the stator grommet as well. I "fixed" it by gently pulling the grommet out slightly creating a gap between the grommet and the inner primary. While gently holding it out I sprayed it down with brake parts cleaner and blew it off with an air blower to get it clean. I did it a couple times until I was satisfied with the cleanliness of it. Again while holding the grommet out slightly I used high temp black RTV gasket sealer and packed it up using my finger between the grommet and primary. I released the grommet so it sat against the primary like it's supposed then I kind of pushed and pulled the grommet gently to make sure the RTV got into the primary opening. Once I was confident there was enough around the grommet inside the hole I wiped away the excess RTV and let it dry for an hour or so. The whole process took about 15 minutes minus the hour to let it dry or cure and it hasn't leaked since. The black RTV is hardly noticable against the black inner primary after I wiped the excess away and it dried. Easy and cheap repair
 

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Yes, and boot is molded to the wire, not a separate part. Some have had luck with squirting sealer in there. I just let mine leak until the dripping got bad enough to annoy me (took about 4 years), and then replaced the stator.
YOU'RE JOKING, right? :ROFLMAO::LOL::coffee::coffee::D
 
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I am just in awe, on how something like a rubber grommet, can set you back hundreds of dollars....
Harley must have hired a Ford engineer, for the stator wire
Shaking head sideways still pissed off and I refuse to go to the fucking corner!!
I think you are over thinking it a little. It's a relatively easy repair if you stop and take a breath. I get leaks sucks but it is only a rubber material which is subjected to very hot temperatures being attached to the engine so the rubber gets stiff and shrinks up a bit losing its ability to maintain a seal. I, along with a few others shared how we repaired it with success. Search youtube and you'll see many others have too. There's no need to spend hundreds of dollars pulling the primary apart to fix it. You probably already have the RTV sealant in your garage, if not it's like $7. at your local auto parts store and will only take a few minutes to to get it to stop leaking. If you lived near me I'd do it for free, it's that simple. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Unfortunately I have way to much on my plate, and the Glide has been a real stress reliever, I try and see my mom a couple times a week, 53 miles, 1 way, I usually take the Avalanche, but a hub and upper control arm decided to shit, no problem I'll drive old chevy.....Sunday while driving the old truck, a brake pad, decentagraded, the pad itself came off. I guess I need to drive it more often. Parts ordered for both trucks
Still no problem, I got the Glide, and 53 miles goes by quick, I stop by my son's house, he says Dad your leaking oil....
Sure enough there's good size puddle, stick my finger in it, it's to clear to really tell, but I know it's not gear oil. So that leaves the tranny out, check the oil and its perfect. I look underneath the bike, and oil is every were, it covers the bottom of my bike, so I know it been leaking awhile.
So I degreased everything, took for a short ride, and was able to track the leak to a stator wire,
Tonight I used the black Permatex, I will pull the primary cover tomorrow, and top it off, will check it for leaks after my ride to see my mom, 🤞🤞
Taking advice, taking a breath and stepping back....it only a puddle
 

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Unfortunately I have way to much on my plate, and the Glide has been a real stress reliever, I try and see my mom a couple times a week, 53 miles, 1 way, I usually take the Avalanche, but a hub and upper control arm decided to shit, no problem I'll drive old chevy.....Sunday while driving the old truck, a brake pad, decentagraded, the pad itself came off. I guess I need to drive it more often. Parts ordered for both trucks
Still no problem, I got the Glide, and 53 miles goes by quick, I stop by my son's house, he says Dad your leaking oil....
Sure enough there's good size puddle, stick my finger in it, it's to clear to really tell, but I know it's not gear oil. So that leaves the tranny out, check the oil and its perfect. I look underneath the bike, and oil is every were, it covers the bottom of my bike, so I know it been leaking awhile.
So I degreased everything, took for a short ride, and was able to track the leak to a stator wire,
Tonight I used the black Permatex, I will pull the primary cover tomorrow, and top it off, will check it for leaks after my ride to see my mom, 🤞🤞
Taking advice, taking a breath and stepping back....it only a puddle
We all get those curveballs from time to time so we get your dilemma. It always seems to come in three's. The oil leak sucks but it would appear that is the least of your problems. In fact, as a mechanic for almost 30 years and counting, I will say that the bike IS the least of your problems. The glide is a cheap and easy 15/20 minute fix. The trucks on the other hand will be a little more costly and time consuming to fix with some headaches along the way. But, I guess that's what alcohol is for lol.
 
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