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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever strip out the treads for the primary drain plug? Apparently I just did. The drain plug threaded in fine but would not tight in the primary. I backed the plug out and found the aluminum primary threads wrapped around the drain plug threads. Has anyone ever try to heli-coil the primary threads? I bought a heli-coil thread repair kit but I'm not going to have time to mess with it this week as my work schedule this week is crazy. I'll probably get to it on sunday. Just more crap I have to add to the already big pile
 

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Anyone ever strip out the treads for the primary drain plug? Apparently I just did. The drain plug threaded in fine but would not tight in the primary. I backed the plug out and found the aluminum primary threads wrapped around the drain plug threads. Has anyone ever try to heli-coil the primary threads? I bought a heli-coil thread repair kit but I'm not going to have time to mess with it this week as my work schedule this week is crazy. I'll probably get to it on sunday. Just more crap I have to add to the already big pile
Lucks not your lady.
 

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I would think it would work just fine. I remember when I was 16 and on a trip to South Dakota, my mom's pos berreta spit out a spark plug. We happened to coast into a local shops driveway. We can replace the head or use a heli-coil. Heli-coil it is. Worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am a 22+ year mechanic and have dealt with heli-coils several times throughout my career, its sorta inevitable I guess. It just sucks when you have to do it with your own stuff.
 

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Had this happen on my streetglide. It was like it never got tight and the threads came out on the plug. Used a torquewrench. Very easy solution is to get a self tapping oversized plug at the autoparts store. Much easier than a helicoil. Worked great for me. Had it in that bike for more than 50,000 miles.
 

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Mine on either bike will/have bottomed out tight
Little tef tape and flush one thread in has been working
Stick a wad of bubble gum in the hole and smooth it out
 
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I never try to tighten the drain plug on the primary. I put Teflon tape on it and screw it in flush. Done.
 

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I would try the oversize drain plug first. A helicoil would work but the timesert is a better fix but it is a little more expensive. You can also weld the hole and drill and tap as a last resort.
 

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I never had it happen but maybe because I'm always so careful not to strip the threads. I like the idea of an oversized self-tapping drain plug.
 

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Timesert

The oversize plug is a good idea but a timesert (pricey) is a good way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would try the oversize drain plug first. A helicoil would work but the timesert is a better fix but it is a little more expensive. You can also weld the hole and drill and tap as a last resort.
I never thought about those timeserts. They are a better fix. I used to use those when the older ford 5.4 would blow out spark plugs. Great idea thanks
 

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JB weld repair solution

1. Try to elevate the front tire of the bike so that any residual oil flows to the back of the primary (toward the rear wheel).
2. Clean the bore of the hole with repeated wipes of paper towel, use Electrical Contact Cleaner to remove all oil residue from the drain hole.
3. If there are a few threads on the case that is good. Use a piece coarse emery cloth rolled into a tube and sand the bore of the hole to roughen the metal, like honing an engine cylinder. Scratch it up really well.
4. Clean and degrease the bore again but don't wipe with the towel or cloth, dab at it instead, wiping will leave behind tiny fibers that will interfere with adhesion
5. Use a new plug, spray the threads, neck and shoulders of the new bolt with a couple light coats of Pam cooking spray. This will act like a release agent.
6. Mix JB weld and let it set until it is not runny but more like a peanut butter paste.
7. Smear the JB weld filling the threads of the new plug, smear more JB into the prepped bore of the primary. Put on just enough to fill any remaining threads.
8. Put the bolt into the bore and give it about a 1/4 turn as you insert it. Insert it slowly and excess JB weld should ooze out, wipe this away right away.
9. Use good quality duct tape to hold the bolt in place as the JB cures. To speed the cure, shine a trouble lamp on the repair area or point a heat gun at it from about 18"-24" away to warm the area, heat will speed the chemical reaction within the mixed JB weld.
10. Leave it overnight. Next day, back out the bolt, it should come out clean, use a file to knock down any sharp edges and file the the bottom of the hole in theprimary smooth.
11. Use a new o-ring and teflon tape on the threads of the new bolt. Screw into the new threads until the shoulder of the bolt contacts the bore of the primary, no more torque is needed, the o-ring will make the seal.


Tips Tongue depressors or popsicle sticks make great mixing and application tools. Mix the JB weld on a clean piece of wood or better yet in a plastic disposable food container until uniform color, test the consistency of the JB weld every few seconds until it forms a paste then work with it very quickly. Also clean the bottom of the inner primary and the outer primary where the duct tape will need to adhere to hold the plug in place during the curing process.


Calgaryglide
 

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I used an expansion plug sold at marinas for plugging holes in boats. Its like a rubber stopper used for soda bottles. Had one in my e glide for years without any problems.
 

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I have the Time-Sert kit you need with a few extra inserts from a repair I did on my 08 Heritage trans drain plug. Yours to use for the price of shipping to and from if you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have the Time-Sert kit you need with a few extra inserts from a repair I did on my 08 Heritage trans drain plug. Yours to use for the price of shipping to and from if you like.
Thank you for the offer but I just bought an oversized plug. Got it in and snug. Took it for a short lil ride and all is good now. Thanks for the ideas
 
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