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2013 Road Glide with no engine mods
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ride a 2013 RGC, about a week ago there was a little bit of surging as I accelerated. My bike was at half a tank and had been sitting for a month. I topped it off with 93 Octane and it seemed to run fine until it got back to half a tank today. The engine light stays on as well. Thinking that it was only bad gas, I siphoned out most of the gas and refilled it 93 and Seafoam. I rode it around the neighborhood for a few and it started out fine but quickly started surging again. The only addition that I have done to it was adding an aftermarket breather last year. She has less than 16000 miles on her and was tuned up before winter storing last year. Does anyone have any idea about what could be causing this?
 

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What diagnostic codes are showing? Your Check Engine Light being on is trying to tell you something.
 

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Always check codes first thing.
Not often but the fuel line in the tank has been known to get a crack and leak causing issues like this once fuel is below the the fuel line. One way you can spot it some times is when it starts doing it remove fuel cap and look for a mist in the tank.
 

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2013 Road Glide with no engine mods
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will look into it when I get home. I guess the only thing that is throwing me off is when I turn of the power and restart the bike the engine light is not on. It comes on within a few minutes of throttling.
 

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It does sound as if your fuel lines are cracked like Smitty said.
There has been issues of the fuel filter housing warping as well but I would lean towards the fuel line cracking.
When the bike runs fine with a full fuel tank and then the fuel level drops and the bike stars to have running issues that is a indicator that your getting air in the fuel.

Mark
 

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2013 Road Glide with no engine mods
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well, checked the codes, and came up with 5 codes and 2 part #. Not too happy about it. P1510, P2122, P2138, B1121, B1122, PN 68920-07, PN32999-11. Going to run everything down and see if it was something that I may have caused when tinkering. I was going to change out the handlebar to some mini apes that I got from a buddy. The wire got pinched in the process. It looks like that is the primary issue because all of the p codes relate to throttle. Thank yall for your input.
 

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You changed the bars or are planning to change the bars ?
 

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Engine light if it stays on means there is a code.
Some time one code will cause others to be thrown .
It appears the Throttle sensors has issues. Do turn signals work they could be older codes
P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode
P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
P2123 TGS1 High
P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault

PN 68920-07 is turn signal Module
PN 32999-11 is not a valid part number ? This happens some times with HD DTC .
 

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2013 Road Glide with no engine mods
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Engine light if it stays on means there is a code.
Some time one code will cause others to be thrown .
It appears the Throttle sensors has issues. Do turn signals work they could be older codes
P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode
P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
P2123 TGS1 High
P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault

PN 68920-07 is turn signal Module
PN 32999-11 is not a valid part number ? This happens some times with HD DTC .
Turn signal lights were switched out and added tour pack, this one does not worry me everything still works fine, reset. Found out that the 2nd part # has been changed to 32310-08 or A. Been looking for the part and keep finding a SUBA version, genuine HD, but not complete.
 

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32310-08 would be a new version of the 3210-07. Last two numbers indicate the year it was introduce .
The code clearly show a TWB issue going on. Has anyone mess with the throttle side grip.
 

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2013 Road Glide with no engine mods
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
32310-08 would be a new version of the 3210-07. Last two numbers indicate the year it was introduce .
The code clearly show a TWB issue going on. Has anyone mess with the throttle side grip.
I made the mistake of cutting wires when attempting to put on new handlebars. The bars didn't fit, spliced the wires back together. Been riding smoothly for all reason until 2 days ago.
 

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I fuel and rough running issues that I chased forever on my 11. MAP sensor replaced under warranty. 3 years later similar issues. 2 months later same issue. I replaced everything fuel related, filter, pump, hoses, everything I could reach before the injectors. Still no resolution. 2 weeks at the dealer, they called in a guy from Milwaukee. There was a bad wire. Not visible, and didn't show up on continuity tests, they had to run a voltage test, ohm test, something that showed the wire was partially broken. The issue doesn't sound exactly the same, but similar.
 

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I made the mistake of cutting wires when attempting to put on new handlebars. The bars didn't fit, spliced the wires back together. Been riding smoothly for all reason until 2 days ago.
Sound like the likely culprit. These things have a way of coming back to haunt us when we least expect it.
 

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Bastardized 2011 FLTRU
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I just swapped my OEM bars out for 12” apes and found one of the wires on the clutch side was barely holding together after being pinched under the perch clamp for what I assume has been many years. I never pulled the perch in the 5 months I have owned the bike. If you looked closely you could see where if had been arcing against the bars. Never threw any codes but it happened nonetheless. I bet your issues have to do with your cutting and splicing the wires. BTW the connectors were super easy to de and re-pin so the wiring could be ran inside the bars if you decide to try again rather than splicing….
 

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2013 Road Glide with no engine mods
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just swapped my OEM bars out for 12” apes and found one of the wires on the clutch side was barely holding together after being pinched under the perch clamp for what I assume has been many years. I never pulled the perch in the 5 months I have owned the bike. If you looked closely you could see where if had been arcing against the bars. Never threw any codes but it happened nonetheless. I bet your issues have to do with your cutting and splicing the wires. BTW the connectors were super easy to de and re-pin so the wiring could be ran inside the bars if you decide to try again rather than splicing….
Thanks for the info, I went ahead and bought a used set of bars and 10" Apes. Figured gonna have to take it apart anyway. Can't find a set of prewired for under $1300
 

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Well you didn't mention you cut wires in the handlebars.
Well fix those wires and your problem may be solved.
The best handlebars for your bike which fit and you don't need to cut wires and all your stock cables work are the HD Heritage style handlebars HD/PN56902-08.
If fixing those cut wires don't take care of your problem then look down behind the air filter at the wires going into the TPS which is the plug going into the throttle body.
But according to the DTC code you posted it does look like the wires on the throttle side is your problem.

Good luck
Mark
 
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