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Well I gotthe dreaded swirl marks in my vivid black paint, the scoot is a 2011 with 37k so not a trailer queen by a long shot , got some swirl marks on the tank and front fender mostly, I purchased this meguiars ultimate compound, seems to work well used it in a small area to try it out, but was wondering what else you guys have used will good results. I am sure phillyfan1 will chime in with some great advice as always and much appreciated brotha. Thanks .
 

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I use Meguiar"s as well, not the best product out there but I find it work very well. I do the full three part treatment Compound, polish, and wax and has done great on black paint for me. Not expensive at all. I use the drill pads and works great. Maybe try the compound before the polish, it has removed swirls for me. Best of luck.
 

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Here is good investment, use mine all the time.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-3inch-Complete-Polishing/dp/B00UGCLNWG/ref=sr_1_55?crid=32X652VXVWL9K&keywords=griots+garage&qid=1551570391&s=gateway&sprefix=grio%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-55[/ame]
 

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Wash, 3M Perfect-it blue clay, 3M Perfect-It Buffing & Polishing Compound (1) (2) (3), Then a good 9H hardness Ceramic coating.

May be better ways, this works for me and is easy to clean.
 

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Well I gotthe dreaded swirl marks in my vivid black paint, the scoot is a 2011 with 37k so not a trailer queen by a long shot , got some swirl marks on the tank and front fender mostly, I purchased this meguiars ultimate compound, seems to work well used it in a small area to try it out, but was wondering what else you guys have used will good results. I am sure phillyfan1 will chime in with some great advice as always and much appreciated brotha. Thanks .
This stuff works well.

https://cougarchemical.com/products/pro-black-beauty?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&keyword_session_id=vt~adwords|kt~|mt~|ta~313244993205&_vsrefdom=wordstream&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtvPjBRDPARIsAJfZz0pf2W0jMlaylQXMZ4e1LWhSbxfNkDZazxc2Wdmo_gd67ZfXlgIsJ6AaAnYREALw_wcB
 

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This stuff works well.

https://cougarchemical.com/products/pro-black-beauty?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&keyword_session_id=vt~adwords|kt~|mt~|ta~313244993205&_vsrefdom=wordstream&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtvPjBRDPARIsAJfZz0pf2W0jMlaylQXMZ4e1LWhSbxfNkDZazxc2Wdmo_gd67ZfXlgIsJ6AaAnYREALw_wcB
Has silicones in it, fillers.1 step product. Doesn't fix anything, just hides it for a while.
Thats fine if thats what you want. To remove the swirls you need more than that.

RD PM sent
 

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Wash, 3M Perfect-it blue clay, 3M Perfect-It Buffing & Polishing Compound (1) (2) (3), Then a good 9H hardness Ceramic coating.

May be better ways, this works for me and is easy to clean.
Ive used coatings since they basically have been out. Like other detailers, this 9H hardness is very misleading and a marketing strategy. Look up what that test actually is and then how the coating manufactures have manipulated it. Dam shame actually.
some really good companies out there that make outstanding coatings that don't need to use this, and some don't.
Coatings are not scratch proof. Some detailers tend to overstate what they can do.
 

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Road Dawg, you get my PM?
 

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Poly "Glaze", has fillers in it which hides imperfections. Fine if thats what you want.
Meguires UC, ehhh. If your only options are that then ok. Id use 105 before UC and I don't like 105.
 

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Poly "Glaze", has fillers in it which hides imperfections. Fine if thats what you want.
Meguires UC, ehhh. If your only options are that then ok. Id use 105 before UC and I don't like 105.
Philly, I've read many of the posts you've made about the "proper" way to care for our finishes, removing swirl marks, polishing, waxing etc. I know for me that it would be awesome if you would give us a beginners course in your trade secrets :)

For a long time it didn't matter to me since I was on a denim sled, but now that I've got my Hard Candy finish it would be something that me (and probably lots of others) would benefit from.

Things like;

What's the best prepping polish?
How to remove swirl marks?
How to remove fine scratches or other minor imperfections in the paint?
Finishing polishes?
Final wax or sealing coat etc.?
Types of recommend tools, pads etc.?
 

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Philly, I've read many of the posts you've made about the "proper" way to care for our finishes, removing swirl marks, polishing, waxing etc. I know for me that it would be awesome if you would give us a beginners course in your trade secrets :)

For a long time it didn't matter to me since I was on a denim sled, but now that I've got my Hard Candy finish it would be something that me (and probably lots of others) would benefit from.

Things like;

What's the best prepping polish?
How to remove swirl marks?
How to remove fine scratches or other minor imperfections in the paint?
Finishing polishes?
Final wax or sealing coat etc.?
Types of recommend tools, pads etc.?
Brother that would be one long post! As for best polish, one size doesn't fit all really, but I can get you close. Most of the harleys I have done the paint is about medium hardness, except for the super soft vivid black. The clear they use on vivid black is extremely soft, therefor will be handled differently. So, everything after this will be geared towards paint other then vivid black. These are the steps I do when doing paint correction on a bike, car, or truck. Universal so no secrets.
1. Wash - dry
2. Iron X. rinse
3. Clay, or clay substitute
4. Bikes, I remove bags, side covers and clean the backs of them and the hidden parts n the bike.
5. Inspect the paint on the bag, using a Flex light. Tape off a section of the side of the bag and do a test spot. This is important to dial in your process. Always use the least aggressive method possible to achieve the results you are after.
6. After you have dialed the process in what products, pads, speed of machine, etc., start polishing and inspect your work as you go.
7. I wipe down a body part when Im finished with Eraser to ensure all polishing oils are removed, inspect, and to insure all parts are clean.
8. Apply LSP. Only if the owner asks for wax will I apply it. Sealant or coatings are a better choice in the south.

Polishing technique - Lots of videos online. Slow arm speed, but always moving. Pressure on the pad has a big impact along with machine speed.

Sealants are applied sort of like a wax. Don't gob it on! Thin Thin Thin! Wipe off is a breeze.
Coating application and removal is a whole different ballgame. Mess up and miss a high spot and you will be polishing it off. Some have to be aggressively removed.

As far as tools; Flex, Rupes, Griots Garage, Porter cable are your most popular ones. If just doing your bike, 6in Griots is a good machine. Get a 3in backing plate to use with 4in pads. I like that machine better then their smaller one, more power and more versatile. Lifetime warranty also.
I have a Flex also and it is a workhorse. I use this more then any other.

As for pads, Get LC 3 orange pads and 3 polishing pads, just to get you started.
Micro fiber. So important to get quality ones. Leave the auto parts towels in the store. Ive seen what they do to a freshly polished surface, you end up re-polishing because of towel marring.

Compounds and polishes - no one size fits all here. Ive done the same year same color cars and they couldn't have been more different in how they polished out, just how it is. This is why you see detailers have tons of products, you never know what you will run up against. Menzerna is my personal favorite. 3D HD Cut and Polish work very well on harley paint also. Sonax is also very good. CarPro Reflect is a great finishing polish. Stick with those and you will be fine.

Hope I answered your questions. If not, let me know
 

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@phillyfan1 you are the man!

Funny story (kind of off topic). When I bought my 2018 there was a scratch on the left saddle bag lid. I insisted that the dealer replace the lid before I signed any papers and took delivery of the bike. First lid came in........... color match and amount of gold flake was way off. Dealer reluctantly ordered another. Second lid came in and color match / gold flake content right on, but the top clear coat had a lot of orange peel. At this point it was either keep the original scratched lid or accept the orange peel. I know that all of their custom multi-coat colors usually have a little orange peel, but this was the worst I had seen. In the end, I figured that I could live with the orange peel better than I could the scratch, so I kept the second lid and bought the bike.

Afterwards I took the bike up to our local custom car paint shop and asked the owner if he could do a bit of "fixing". He looked at me like I was crazy and told me there wasn't any way he was going to touch that bag lid :)
 

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Wev, why didn't he want to touch the lid?
Most paint shops don't do serious polishing. Takes to much time
 

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Wet sanding factory clear is something I won't do either. Been lots of guys that do it to their bike and think its no problem. No problem until you go thru the clear.
Now if you have a urge CarPro makes a Denim pad that is designed to get out orange peel. I have never used it but guys have had success with it.
Too much of a liability for me. Cutting thru the clear on a BMW and Im on the hook for it??? Id be in the poor house getting it resprayed
 

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Great stuff. Philly got me hooked last year, will never look at paint the same. I don’t spend as much time as I could on it, but enjoy the process of wash/dry, clay, polish, and finish (sealant). Sealant for sure is a different finished look than wax, but I prefer it. To me high end wax looks deeper, good sealant looks crisper and lasts longer. I haven’t messed with coatings yet but they do have some do it yourself friendly ones, you don’t have to be a pro but you better take your time and do the prep right if you’re gonna try it.

There are a zillion products out there and that’s where Philly helped a ton - picking the right stuff for my paint color and condition. It definitely ain’t one size fits all and screwing up product/pad selection could cause issues. I started with the griots 6” with a 3” backing plate. Was intimidated as hell the first time I tried it (even on back of bag) but it’s really not difficult and actually hard to screw up with that machine (see previous comment about right pad/product). Bought myself a rupes nano for Christmas, $$$ but awesome for tight spots.


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