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Discussion Starter #1
What are symptoms of a bad compensator ? What exactly happens when one fails ?
 

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You'll start getting a bang or clunking noise from the primary when starting and or shutting the bike off. It start alil harder
 

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A bing , a bang , a boom. Also look for excess metal particles in the primary oil.
 

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As mentioned the CLUNK is a common sign but hard starting is the sign it is getting real bad.
When starting the bike it will sound as if you have starter problems and you will get starter skip, grind and stall and the symptoms are worst when starting the bike with a hot engine.
 

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Sounds like it(like it's goona take your left leg off), seems you can prolong a teardown by starting in N and not restricting A/C, no shavins yet and since begin of summer always a com'on baby when firein-up then exhale as she rumbles, 03>95k
 

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So far, none of the sounds attributable to failing compensator have been emitted from my '08.

Do some upgrade to the SE 40274-08A simply as a precaution. If so then perhaps I need to put the compensator upgrade on my winter rebuild list.
If you are not having any problems I would leave well enough alone. The problem with the SE Compensator is a lack of lubrication because of the design. The newest design addresses this issue somewhat, but time will tell if it really fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm getting lot of noise from lower left side on startup Goes away after 2-3 min I did notice some fine metal on drain plug but nothing excessive. I suspect compensator going south. A month out of warranty just my luck:(
 

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Hmmm...I sometimes get a knock upon ignition, but it's happened since day one and hasn't worsened. Hester is a 2010, which I understand was a banner year for compensator failures.
 

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Hmmm...I sometimes get a knock upon ignition, but it's happened since day one and hasn't worsened. Hester is a 2010, which I understand was a banner year for compensator failures.
If that's all you're getting then hold off, especially if it's been since day one. When you get the hot hard start with a lil starter grinding mixed in then I'd change the comp before it wipes the starter out too
 

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look for excess metal particles in the primary oil.
I change the primary every 5k and the magnet on the plug is always full of shavings. I was told this is normal for the primary.

The tranny and engine plugs have absolutely 0 metal on them!
 

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I change the primary every 5k and the magnet on the plug is always full of shavings. I was told this is normal for the primary.

The tranny and engine plugs have absolutely 0 metal on them!
A little is normal , I said excessive amounts. Look for different colors too.(that you normally don't see. )
 

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I change the primary every 5k and the magnet on the plug is always full of shavings. I was told this is normal for the primary.

The tranny and engine plugs have absolutely 0 metal on them!
A little metal shavings on the drain plug is normal.
But the primary drain plug magnet only catches very few metal particles (maybe .01%)compared to what is being produce in the primary.
After 40,000 miles or so you can pull the clutch spring and you will see where all the metal particle collect.
The metal particles will collect in the inside of the clutch spring by the outer edge and it will look like a bead of caulk was put there. There will also be metal particles in the pressure plate and clutch hub but most of the metal particles will collect by the edge of the clutch spring.
It is good to pull the clutch spring and clean the junk out once in a while when you have the primary cover off.
 

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Just got rid of both problem children in the primary,they are compensater and auto slack adjuster. Went with the Vulcan comp eliminater sprocket and Bakers manuel adjuster. Perfect and recommend doing it. If that adjuster tightens too much,you could take out crank brng and trans mainshaft brng from overload
 
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