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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I just bought a used clear stock shield for my '10 RG and am having it cut down 1.5 inches. I'd like to have it tinted and thought it would be easy to have the stick on stuff applied like we used to do to the top of our car windshields. To my surprise I can't seem to find anything like that locally other than spray on which totally blacks out the shield.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Andy
 

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Find a 3M dealer in your area. He will probably have a scrap piece that will fit. They have a wide range of tints and it sticks much better than the stuff you get at wall mart.
Yeah but remember I'm a cop and we are the cheapest people you will ever meet. I have ordered stuff from the site http://www.gilafilms.com/index.htm for some of our work vehicles. Their site gives you a lot of info and photos of what the products look like. You might want to check about applying it to the acrylic/polycarbonate. Never did it before. Don't know if there are any issues.
 

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Let us know/see how it turns out

I for one would like to know how this project turns out. I have an aftermarket windshield that came with the bike that I would possibly go this route on if it turns out well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did find a place that had a few options for me but unfortunately I was attempting to hide some scratches and putting a tinted film on the shield actually highlights them even more as they show up white. Otherwise I think it would have looked great.
I may just run a strip across the top and see how that looks.
 

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I've done some more research into this. General concensus is that it is not a good idea to use standard window tint (film) because polycarbonates actually emit gasses when heated by the sun. This causes bubbles in the tint There is a liquid tint that can be used but it looks like a PITA: http://www.callbpi.com/htm_cat/poly_acr.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, the shop I visited said the same thing. It would bubble. They recommended the protective fllm used on the front of cars and trucks, that is opaque but not optical; in other words you can look through it but not see through it. I have given up.

I've done some more research into this. General concensus is that it is not a good idea to use standard window tint (film) because polycarbonates actually emit gasses when heated by the sun. This causes bubbles in the tint There is a liquid tint that can be used but it looks like a PITA: http://www.callbpi.com/htm_cat/poly_acr.htm
 

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On this topic, has anyone used the spray tint on any clear parts? I was thinking of trying it out (on another piece of material first). just wanted some thoughts. I know you can buy the parts already tinted, but I'm happy with the shape and coverage of my windshield.
 

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On this topic, has anyone used the spray tint on any clear parts? I was thinking of trying it out (on another piece of material first). just wanted some thoughts. I know you can buy the parts already tinted, but I'm happy with the shape and coverage of my windshield.
Guys i tried the spray tint. I sprayed it on too thick or too many coats and it was horrible. Saving grace was i was able to save shield and scrub the spray off with cleaner and elbow grease. I dont recommend it but you can try it. Maybe try 1 light coat and see how that is. hold can about 10 inches away when spraying.
 

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I haven't a done a windshield for my road glide, but a friend of mine did a small windshield on a headlight cowl. It was clear and he wanted it completely black so I helped him darken it. We used the VHT nightshades and one can of clear coat. It's important to wet sand the shield with a maximum 800 grit sand paper and no coarser. Once it's nice and sanded smooth (should just have a nice smooth frosted look with no heavy sratch marks, if it does then you need to sand down with a finer grit paper until it's gone). After spray a light coat of the VHT, wait about 5 minutes, then spray a second coat. I might add the can sprays quite nicely and evenly. So usually 2 coats is good if you don't want it completely black. A 3rd coat will most likely black it out and that's what we did. Once you complete the VHT nightshade, wait about 20 minutes and then hit the shield with the clear coat. We did about 3 coats of clear with 15 minutes between coat. Once that cured over the coarse of 3 days I wet sanded down all the orange peel with a 800 grit, then 1500 grit and lastley 2000 grit and then compounded it with med/fine compound, plastix clear wax and then a coat of mequiars wax and it turned out real good.
 
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