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Discussion Starter #1
I think my 3rd gear is going in the stock transmission. The bike gets shifted pretty hard so its definitely from user abuse.

17K miles so far, i just put in a barnett scorpion clutch over the weekend and still get the occassional hiccup under 3rd gear hard acceleration, especially 2 up riding.

The bike doesnt pop out of gear and stay there but it definitely on its way to that point.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I'd love to go to like a baker OD6 or something but i dont know that i want to spend $2K+ on the transmission.
 

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Baker OD6 is for 5 speed transmission to upgrade to a 6 speed.

Your choices are rebuild or Baker 7 speed. Jims sells a complete cruise drive 6 speed rebuild kit.
 

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"I think" I read on Baker's website you can send your transmission in to Baker and they will rebuild it with their gears. Might be a little more cost effective......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
"I think" I read on Baker's website you can send your transmission in to Baker and they will rebuild it with their gears. Might be a little more cost effective......
I'm going to have to call them i think. Their rebuild kit looks like all the seals and bearings, etc. but i dont see where i can order any gears.

I just want a 3rd/4th gear and would prefer something stronger than stock.
 

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Sound like you are pretty rough on transmissions. 17K isn't a lot of mileage to start having trans problems. If the transmission case is good there is no reason not to rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep. The bike has seen the drag stip a number of times, and will again now with my new clutch.

I can break free third gear now with the Barnett, yes I am tough on the trans.

Just got off the phone with baker and they suggest DD7. I'll probably ride it how it is until it wont stay in 3rd any more and then assess the situation again.

If i can find another stock trans for short money I'm really not opposed to doing that either.
 

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Drag racing can be hard on the stock trans. The Baker trans is well built and you do pay for it. I read up on the DD7 a while back and if I remember right the DD7 will give you an extra gear but all baker does is drop the gear ratio on gears 1-6 and 7th gear is the same gear ratio as the stock HD 6th gear.
This would mean more shifting when drag racing but you will hit and stay in the power band better.
 

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personally I would look around and see if you can fine a six speed gear set with straight cut gears. The helical cut gears can't handle a lot of power and abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
personally I would look around and see if you can fine a six speed gear set with straight cut gears. The helical cut gears can't handle a lot of power and abuse.
The DD7 is straight cut in 2nd and 3rd
The DD6 is straight cut in 1st through 3rd.

I guess it's something I'll have to start budgeting for if i'm not going to change my riding style. The DD7 has a shorter first gear, which for my bike with the cam thats in there now would be a blessing. I've considered changing the drive pulley but this would be the best way to do it.
 

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I think my 3rd gear is going in the stock transmission. The bike gets shifted pretty hard so its definitely from user abuse.

17K miles so far, i just put in a barnett scorpion clutch over the weekend and still get the occassional hiccup under 3rd gear hard acceleration, especially 2 up riding.

The bike doesnt pop out of gear and stay there but it definitely on its way to that point.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I'd love to go to like a baker OD6 or something but i dont know that i want to spend $2K+ on the transmission.

Sounds like a shift fork is worn, and not allowing correct engagement of the drivers.
Contact R&D in Clearwater, Fla., as they may offer up an aswer that won't break the bank.
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I finally broke down and started pulling the transmission out last night. I still had the issue with 3rd gear but second gear started making a terrible rapping noise while i was about 2 hours from home. Bike sounded normal in other gears so i just drove around skipping 2nd.

Waiting on my puller to remove the mainshaft bearing race but I did find a couple of teeth from a gear inside the clutch cover on the right side.

I'm trying to bang this out on the cheap, i dont really want to spend the money on a Baker DD7 although thats what i would like. With the stage4 SE setup in my bike i could use some lower gear ratios. Either that or i could do the 30T pulley since i'm already in there.

Once i add up all the parts for a trans rebuild kit, bearings, seals, plus whatever gears i broke, plus a 30T pulley I may as well just buy the baker DD7.

In all honesty, i'll probably just put everything in the parts washer, fix whats broken, not change any bearings, and budget for a new gear set. Only bummer is that I'm going to have to deal with that mainshaft bearing race again, i wish there was an option for the later model bikes that allowed a bearing without a race.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Second gear is pretty wasted. I just bought a whole gear assembly off ebay from a streetglide, including the trap door, so I can just slap it in and get back on the road ASAP.

Guess I need to be a little bit nicer on the trans. I must have really jammed a shift going into second.
 

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Second gear is pretty wasted. I just bought a whole gear assembly off ebay from a streetglide, including the trap door, so I can just slap it in and get back on the road ASAP.

Guess I need to be a little bit nicer on the trans. I must have really jammed a shift going into second.
Yep it sure looks like you been a bit hard on the tranny. :rolleyes:

It sure is fun to run the bike hard but a few costly repairs :eek: has a tendency to slow the bike down a little. Good luck on the repair, hope all goes well.
 

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The Baker Street Doors work pretty well. JIMS makes one as well as George's Garage but I prefer the Baker. I've had good luck with it and I don't know if the others used the bearing retainer plate instead of snap rings like the stocker has which is part of the problem. The other problem with the stock unit is the bearings are not robust enough to handle high power and the axial load high power puts on the helical cut gears. The helical cut gears by nature, try to push away from each other under high load and the shafts flex due to the bearings being too small and the snap rings having movement and flexibility. The result is the helical cut gears no longer have full contact patch across the entire gear under high load where you need full contact most. I would absolutely avoid the Revtech gear set. They are about a 1/3 of the cost of a new set from HD and they won't last with your riding style. If I were in your shoes, I would order new gears from HD or possibly Andrews (maybe do a little research) and you can order the HD gears from a online 20% off dealer if you decide to go that route or contact one of the vendors here set up with Andrews or Tucker Rocky (Bikers Choice) if you opt for the Andrews gear set. Order a Baker rebuild kit and their billet shift forks and if you're making passes on the strip, you might consider their ignition kill shift drum also and wires a toggle switch up where you can run it without the ignition kill part while normal riding and also the Baker Door of course. I'd also recommend the Baker Heavy Duty throwout bearing. Unfortunately, for the cruise drives, there is not sealed bearing for the inner primary at the moment. I am working with Evolution Industries to makes that bearing, an Auto Tensioner similar to the Hayden that can stand up to the power that the Hayden's seem to be failing on. I do like the Hayden if the bike is not too radical but it doesn't hold up well to applications such as yours. The fact of not being able to get a high torque inner primary bearing, I'd suggest replacing it with a new stock unit and clean the shaft and the race before installing the new race and maybe mix some red loctite with a little but of the green loctite. I would not advise using straight green loctite or you will have to get it so hot to get it back off when you need to remove it, it will compromise the integrity of the shaft. I suppose if you used straight green, you may be able to cut through the race say 2/3's of the way and whack it with a chisel and hammer and it may split it off with less heat than trying to pull it off with the race puller. Curious to find out what you end up doing and let us know how it holds up after you've beat on it some more.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well for now i actually just ended up putting a complete gear set out of an 07 street glide in the bike.

$330 plus shipping and a few hours of work and I'm back on the road. Of course the big thing i didn't think about with going to the 07 gear set is that it has the main shaft without the step in it at the bearing race, at least thats what it seems like. That and the 5th gear is straight cut instead of helical.

I got stuck most of the way finished because the bearing race on my my 2011 mainshaft won't fit the the mainshaft on the 07 transmission. I actually heated it in the oven and got it on there but once it cooled off a bit it cracked and I had to pull it off.

Of course i realized this after the local dealer was closed today so my primary is still apart but everything else is back on the bike.

I am pretty sure that I had bearing race 34091-08 with my bike being a 2011 and need to go to a 34091-06 because i am using an 07 transmission.

The inner diameter is different on the race but the outer is the same. Of course now i have the mainshaft that was prone to having the race walk and wreck the seals. I'm going to call baker just to double check but i think i can use their bearing now that i have an '07 transmission in the bike. Then i don't have to deal with that bearing race again if i have to pull the trans. Which of course means i don't have to remove the inner primary just the outer which would be nice.
http://bakerdrivetrain.com/high-torque-bearing-kit

I'm going to ride out the season on this transmission and prepare to do something a bit more radical for next season when i have more time and can budget for the right setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think the difference in gearing is primarily due to the pulley sizes and tire size.

I had the 2 transmissions out next to each other and all things looked identical with the exception of the 5th gear cut.

The 6th gear that was originally in the bike meshed fine with the new transmission and vice versa so i think final drive should end up being the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Done. I just ordered the baker bearing kit from Matt over there. He is sending it overnight.

No more bearing race to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
New transmission is in and I am riding. Unfortunately, I think this transmission has a worn dog ring in 3rd or maybe the shift fork isn't pushing it all the way into gear.

It wasn't noticeable when looking at it before installation but under heavy load it's slipping. :mad:

Now I guess I have to decide whether I should pull the dog and shift fork out of my old transmission and put it into this one and hope for the best.

Good news is that now I have the baker mainshaft bearing I don't have to deal with that bearing race.

I SHOULD probably order new gears and dog rings but then I'm throwing more money into a transmission that I ultimately want to replace with a baker.

I guess this is the risk you take buying used parts.
 
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