[ksarauer]

I have ~1500 miles on a S&S 106 kit and have been trying to track down a ticking noise that comes and goes. Sounds like it's coming from the left side. I have the short/light/tic tic that's very consistent. Then around 3000 rpm's I get another tic that's sounds more tinny/hollow that I'm trying to track down, it also comes during aggressive riding...

What's installed....
Cam - TMan 555tq
Lifters - S&S HL2T (with travel limiters)
Pushrods - SE tapered (24TPI)
Stock heads, rockers, etc.
S&S 106 jugs/pistons with 40 thou head gasket...

I adjusted the pushrods according to the S&S pushrod adjustment guide here except I only loosened the pushrod 4 facets because they are 24TPI instead of 32TPI.

Anyone have an idea where the louder tic is coming from? What to look for? etc...

TIA!

 

[Hullhorr]

If the noise is not consistent it could be pinging. Does is sound like BB's in a tin can?

I would also check the rocker covers for clearance. When you put higher lift cams in the rockers can hit the underside of the rocker covers in a few spots.

 

[ksarauer]

It could be pinging. Didn't think of that! I'm currently using a base map and working with tmax on some updates. It does sound like bb's in a tin can, but is noticable even after letting off the throttle, if that makes a difference I dunno... after 1000 miles, I had lots and lots of carbon buildup on the piston and heads as well.

Ive had the cams for almost 30k, but just recently did the 106 and lifters, so I don't believe it to be the rocker covers, but won't rule that out either.

Kevin

 

[ironmark]

You won't get spark knock when you let off the throttle. Spark knock usually happens when accelerating under load.
Since T-Max only has 3 base maps for the 106 and only 2 base maps for the stock TB and injectors you are kind of limited on the base maps to start with. Are you using the base map 362?
Try clicking on the timing maps on the left side and then click on "Timing vs Engine Speed" then retard the timing 1 or 2 degrees in the rpm range you hear the noise in. Then do a riding session and see if the noise goes away if it goes away or lessens then you are on the right track.
If there is no change then there may be a mechanical issue that needs attention.

 

[ksarauer]

I just loaded map 300 based on tmax recomendation, I think I was using map 333. Went for a short ride. At idle, sounds great, under light load I can hear a light tin can ticking, under a heavy load it's horrible expecially 2800rpm and up. But it does mostly stop once I back off the throttle, however I can still hear it. I do think it's tune related now though.

I'll try adjusting the map and see if that helps.

 

[ironmark]

Try the 362 base map, the base map you are using now is for a 103 but it is for a redshift 577 cam the redshift 525 cam is closer in specs to the T-man 555.
The exhaust style isn't that important because exhaust style affects the AFR more than timing and the T-max will auto tune the AFR, the 361 map is for a 09 head pipe which is de-catted and slip ons.
You can always go back to the base map you are using now.

 

[Smarty]

How many turns do you have on the SE pushrods? I've had to go 4 1/2 before to get the lifters to quieten down. The 555's shouldn't need clearancing on the rocker boxes. I'm thinking some adjustment on the pushrods. Let me know what you find.

 

[ksarauer]

I went 4 flats because of the tpi difference on S&S pushrods and SE pushrods. The S&S pushrods are 6 flats

How many turns do you have on the SE pushrods? I've had to go 4 1/2 before to get the lifters to quieten down. The 555's shouldn't need clearancing on the rocker boxes. I'm thinking some adjustment on the pushrods. Let me know what you find.

 

[ksarauer]

I'll give map 362 a try and see if that's any better.

 

[ksarauer]

I tried the 362 map, along with retarding the timing, noise was still there. Then I adjusted the pushrods to 8 flats, approx. .052, noise is still there.... guess I'm puking the rocker boxes off again.

 

[ksarauer]

Rocker boxes are off, no visible marks on rockers or covers, used clay to check for clearance and clearance is good. Took front breather assembly off and the gasket was shot.

Could this be the cause of the noise?
Anyone know if I can buy just the one gasket without buying the whole breather assembly?

 

[Smarty]

Rocker boxes are off, no visible marks on rockers or covers, used clay to check for clearance and clearance is good. Took front breather assembly off and the gasket was shot.

Could this be the cause of the noise?
Anyone know if I can buy just the one gasket without buying the whole breather assembly?

I would try Big Boyz or someone like Headquarters that does head work. Might be able to buy just one as they buy in bulk.

 

[ironmark]

You should be able to get the gasket from your HD dealer just have them do a kit breakdown.
Not sure if the gasket would cause the noise but I don't think it is the cause.
You may want to try eliminating the limiters on the lifter or try different lifters and see if the noise goes away.
With the things you tried it would seem that the noise is mechanical and not spark knock.

 

[SMOKENJOE]

I have the same build with S&S heads I have had the heads off twice it is in the limited lifter kit I contacted S&S a few times they said it is normal I have had the bike to 6700 rpm with no problems I too have a T max the support gave me a modified map to load my compression is 10.8:1 I am using S&S 585 easy start cams

 

[ksarauer]

Just curious.... could it be in the primary? The noise is coming from the left side.

 

[SMOKENJOE]

mine is in the lifters but i hear it on the left side get a long screwdriver and put it to your pushrod tubes and listen on the end of the screwdriver you should hear it better

 

[ksarauer]

Well, I replaced the breather assembly and the noise I was hearing is not there, however the valve tapping is louder. Going to move the pushrods back to 4 or 5 facets and hope to be done with it.

 

[SMOKENJOE]

i have ~1500 miles on a s&s 106 kit and have been trying to track down a ticking noise that comes and goes. Sounds like it's coming from the left side. I have the short/light/tic tic that's very consistent. Then around 3000 rpm's i get another tic that's sounds more tinny/hollow that i'm trying to track down, it also comes during aggressive riding...

What's installed....
Cam - tman 555tq
lifters - s&s hl2t (with travel limiters)
pushrods - se tapered (24tpi)
stock heads, rockers, etc.
S&s 106 jugs/pistons with 40 thou head gasket...

I adjusted the pushrods according to the s&s pushrod adjustment guide here except i only loosened the pushrod 4 facets because they are 24tpi instead of 32tpi.

Anyone have an idea where the louder tic is coming from? What to look for? Etc...

Tia!

this chart says they are 32 not 24

 

[SMOKENJOE]

The S&S lifter without travel limiters has .200 of plunger travel. 2.5 turns with 24 tpi pushrods equals .104...which is approx. center of the total travel...and right where you want to be...

But...The S&S lifter with travel limiters has .100 of plunger travel. That's the point of using the travel limiter - to limit the plunger travel. So when using limiters in the lifters with 24 tpi pushrods, use 1.25 turns, which equals .052...which is the approx. center of total travel, and where you want to be when using travel limiters.

 

[ksarauer]

That chart is wrong, or partially right. The old SE pushrods are 32, the new SE tapered ones are 24. Mine are 24, I measured them to be sure. Always good to double check .

Your correct, 7.5 flats would bring to center of the lifter (that's also assuming the limiter is exactly .100, some have measured them up to .130 thickness apparently, which moves the centerpoint). I've been at 7.5-8 flats and hear more chatter there then if i go below 6 flats. In the end i went with what S&S recommends for movement per their instructions and am at 5 flats now. Im happy with them.

My main problem has been solved with replacing the breather assembly. I do find it odd that was the cause...