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Discussion Starter #1
Getting an Arlen Ness Big Sucker and V and H Pro Pipe on my 2015 FLTRXS. Dealer wants to put a Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner
Part Number 41000008C
Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner | Specialty Tools | Official Harley-Davidson Online Store
on the bike for me. Says if I do any other tuner it voids the warranty.

Is this tuner any good? Would it be much better to get a different tuner? My warranty is up in March anyway. I'm doing the pipes and air cleaner tomorrow.
 

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Ugh, more warranty crap..

There are a TON of tuners out there. Harley is forced now to run EPA friendly. Not that it is TOTALLY a bad thing, however it may run very lean and hot compared to a well running engine. That being said, it's not a bad tuner. I prefer the TTS Mastertune, and others have their favorites. All will update your ECU and make the 'Stage 1' work better.

I'm sure more people will chime in.

-G
 

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ANY Tuner installed will Technically void your warranty ........ he is trying to scare you into buying from him.

As for the Street Tuner, it is okay and how explained to me, "Comes with a predefined map loaded and does not allow for granular tuning" - That being said, it is okay and for $250......it is okay if you want it done and never plan to do more than a Stage 1 - If you want to grow past that, I would consider other options
 

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Hands down... Best tuner on the market is and has always been the ThunderMax.

That's why its expensive. Harley was going to use it for their SERT but was cost prohibitive.

Now HD are in trouble with installing factory tuners (SERT etc) because of EPA etc.

The only "Void" on Warranty is if they can absolutely confirm that whatever part you are claiming under warranty was caused by the aftermarket ad-on.

For example.... if your starter or Stator go bad and you have a ThunderMax tuner... It's not the Tuner that caused the failure so you are covered...
 

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Yep, just what SteadyEddie said. I think your question is do aftermarket tuners void the warranty. You'll get several different answers on that. I haven't read or heard anywhere where warranty work was denied because of a tuner but doesn't mean those cases don't exist. You do take your chances. The training tutorial for the Screaming Eagle Pro Super Tuner (a different tuner than what you're looking at) specifically stated it voids the warranty. As an FYI to those who've been following this tuner fracas, it looks like what used to be called the Screamin' Eagle Street Performance Tuner $249 (only just a week ago and now no longer available) is now called the Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner $299 not to be confused with the Screaming Eagle Pro Super Tuner which was the subject of scrutiny and also no longer available thru HD. Are there better tuners than what you're looking at? You betcha and every one has their preferences. If all you're ever gonna do is a Stage 1, a $600 tuner isn't really necessary.
 

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Getting an Arlen Ness Big Sucker and V and H Pro Pipe on my 2015 FLTRXS. Dealer wants to put a Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner
Part Number 41000008C
Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner | Specialty Tools | Official Harley-Davidson Online Store
on the bike for me. Says if I do any other tuner it voids the warranty.

Is this tuner any good? Would it be much better to get a different tuner? My warranty is up in March anyway. I'm doing the pipes and air cleaner tomorrow.
I went with Ness Big Sucker, a Black ProPipe and FP3 I decided on this because I got great package discount from company in PA for $1059 total. Did the work myself and bike runs much better and sounds great FP3 so easy to work with and if I go to competition baffle I can tune for it. I have not auto tuned yet been too busy riding 7,500 miles in 3 months. >:)
 

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Another for TTS and PV but will say use what the shop tuning your bike recommends since they are the one working on it. Don't force something they don't know how to work on.
PV is easy to use and lots of maps available from wich can start from then running auto tune will finalized.
We will see dealers using screaming eagle only on HD mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FP3 good enough?

Thanks for all the replies guys.

Would the VandH FP3 be good enough to make my bike run right with this set up? Better than the Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner that the dealer wants to give me?
 

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Thanks for all the replies guys.

Would the VandH FP3 be good enough to make my bike run right with this set up? Better than the Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner that the dealer wants to give me?
For a Stage 1 setup the FP3 would be more than sufficient. I've read a fair amount of complaints about the FP3 here, but frankly mine has been flawless (and I'm not even running V&H pipes or air box).

Just keep in mind that you won't find many dyno guys that want to tune with the FP3. You don't get any PC to bike inter-connects and anything you want to accomplish is done through your Apple or Android phone or tablet (bluetooth connectivity).

Is it the best......? No, not by a long shot, but it will do the things you need at a fair price, with a minimum amount of hassle.

I've been running one on my Stage 1 bike for almost a year now. Not a single issue other than sometimes bluetooth connectivity is hit or miss. Just keep trying to connect until the FP3 wants to communicate with your phone / tablet.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Where to plug in

Time for another silly question from me: where is the connector that I plug the FP3 into? Is it under the left (clutch side) side cover? I see seveal connectors there; how do I know which one?
 

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It's the one with the rubber plug in it.. It should be 4 pins if I'm not mistaken... That being said, I have an '09 so take that as well.. ;-)
 

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Time for another silly question from me: where is the connector that I plug the FP3 into? Is it under the left (clutch side) side cover? I see seveal connectors there; how do I know which one?
Yes, the Data Link Connector is behind the left side cover (clutch side). Behind the side cover you will see two light grey connectors arranged one on top of the other on slide rails. The top connector has wires going in and out. The bottom connector has a rubber plug protecting it with wires going in but no wires coming out. Remove the connector from the slide rail, remove the rubber plug, connect the FP3, secure the FP3, boom you're done.

Attached pic;
 

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With the mods you want to do a Power Vision is a good choice and if you get it from Fuel Moto then you get great support.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Installed

Thanks for all the help guys. So I got my Arlen Ness big Sucker and my Vance and Hines 2 into 1 pro pipe on and I hooked up the FP3.

Given that there is a map for exactly this set-up is there any real benefit to running the autotune or should I just use the map V and H provides?
 

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Thanks for all the help guys. So I got my Arlen Ness big Sucker and my Vance and Hines 2 into 1 pro pipe on and I hooked up the FP3.

Given that there is a map for exactly this set-up is there any real benefit to running the autotune or should I just use the map V and H provides?
When I talked to Chris Neely at V&H he recommended a canned map for my bike based on V&H exhaust closest to what I was running. I flashed that canned map and have tried a couple others for fun.

I've ran all three with and without Auto Tune sessions. At least in my particular case there wasn't much difference between the canned and the auto tuned maps (by seat of the pants anyway). Dyno sheets might prove otherwise, but they were all pretty darn close.

So I took the canned map, changed throttle sensitivity and slightly reduced decel pop. Locked it down, flashed the new map and have been on that for the last 6K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
When I talked to Chris Neely at V&H he recommended a canned map for my bike based on V&H exhaust closest to what I was running. I flashed that canned map and have tried a couple others for fun.

I've ran all three with and without Auto Tune sessions. At least in my particular case there wasn't much difference between the canned and the auto tuned maps (by seat of the pants anyway). Dyno sheets might prove otherwise, but they were all pretty darn close.

So I took the canned map, changed throttle sensitivity and slightly reduced decel pop. Locked it down, flashed the new map and have been on that for the last 6K miles.

I spoke to a guy named Chris at V and H today; probably the same guy?

How do I change throttle sensitivity and decel pop and all that on the canned map and, as you say, lock it down?
 
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