Road Glide banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

After a little less than a year of ownership, I was bitten by the mod bug. Historically I can't leave anything alone. Motor swaps on cars, big power builds on diesel trucks, etc, etc.

I am out of commission for riding for a few months with a broken back, so I'm my down time I'm putting together a custom turbo kit for my bike and KEEP the lower fairings. After just holding the turbo up in the area, I see why all the publicly available kits don't allow the use of lowers! There's not much room left once they're installed!

I haven't decided on left or right side mounting the turbo, and am open to suggestions, but I do know I don't want to do a low or rear mounted snail.

I've already started aquiring parts and pieces... GT2871R, electronic wastegate actuator, 3 bar TMAP sensor, misc connectors.

I plan on building the headers out of my OE head pipes, using an air to water intercooler with heat exchangers in the lowers, and use an Arduino to control the wastegate actuator and provide a boost gauge, BOV, and regulated return fuel system.

Eventually I'll be swapping in a big cube motor, so for now I'm going to limit power to around 120hp. I'm pretty easy on vehicles, so I'm not overly worried about twisting the stock crank (I don't plan on ripping on this motor, using it more or less for proof of concept).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So I plan on using the twin cooled radiators as heat exchangers for the AtW intercooler. Seems like the left side one is abundant on eBay, but the right side one is not, any suggestions beside paying retail appreciated. (I'll be molding my own cowlings on the rear to deflect the cold air in winter and rain when it's wet).

Ordered up some more parts:
  • 2.5 bar map sensor (part number 0261230042 for all of those people looking to not buy a $50+ sensor, found on Amazon for $12) should plug right in, requires retuning. As with extending the range on a sensor, you lose some resolution but gain range. As such I returned the 3bar sensor. I might switch to a 2 bar sensor if I find I can control boost well enough. Wanted the extra range to be able to datalog/have spoke visibility.
  • Turbo compressor flanges, 2.5" inlet, 2" outlet (ordered because it's not cost effective to build them myself). I plan on using 2" pressure tubing for space savings, from what I calculate, the choke point of 2" is around 350-400CFM depending on bends etc.
  • More electronic components for boost controller. I am going to use the single TMAP sensor to also get readings for the boost controller, unless this does something screwy to the ECM readings. Planning on using a unity gain transistor to provide a high impedance tap into the 5v signal of the MAP sensor, think multimeter.
Things are progressing slowly, next steps are to start mocking up the exhaust and acquire the radiator(s) parts and pieces. Intake plenum shouldn't be a big deal, I like the idea of the clear plenums that let you see the butterfly, but that's also just flash. Going to just make a basic one for now., With such a small system, and likely running sans intercooler to start with, maximizing intake volume is going to be key to stability. If the vee angle was higher, it was be less critical, but the 45deg vee leads to some critical design requirements regarding volume.

No pictures for now, but coming soon!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
And big cube motor fell into my lap, so that's a thing now too, complete with welded crank!

Had a few small changes, going with a barrel type intercooler, 2.5" tubing. Might go with basic pneumatic wastegate actuator for now. I have one from the S15 the turbo came off of, haven't messed with it, so I'm assuming it's stock spring.

Found out the power duals headers I had were BADLY cracked right before the x, common problem. Yay for more free tubing, I guess?

Oil feed is completed, oil drain will go back into cam chest cover.

Ordering cheap import vented lower fairings for the twin cooled bikes, come with radiators. I have the rest of the plumbing on hand.

Intake plenum is going to be long pole I think. It needs a few fittings on it and I need to find a local shop to roll a ring for me. I'll upload some pics tomorrow morning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Hey all,

After a little less than a year of ownership, I was bitten by the mod bug. Historically I can't leave anything alone. Motor swaps on cars, big power builds on diesel trucks, etc, etc.

I am out of commission for riding for a few months with a broken back, so I'm my down time I'm putting together a custom turbo kit for my bike and KEEP the lower fairings. After just holding the turbo up in the area, I see why all the publicly available kits don't allow the use of lowers! There's not much room left once they're installed!

I haven't decided on left or right side mounting the turbo, and am open to suggestions, but I do know I don't want to do a low or rear mounted snail.

I've already started aquiring parts and pieces... GT2871R, electronic wastegate actuator, 3 bar TMAP sensor, misc connectors.

I plan on building the headers out of my OE head pipes, using an air to water intercooler with heat exchangers in the lowers, and use an Arduino to control the wastegate actuator and provide a boost gauge, BOV, and regulated return fuel system.

Eventually I'll be swapping in a big cube motor, so for now I'm going to limit power to around 120hp. I'm pretty easy on vehicles, so I'm not overly worried about twisting the stock crank (I don't plan on ripping on this motor, using it more or less for proof of concept).
Sorry, I’m a paramedic. How did you break your back? Ouch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Sorry, I’m a paramedic. How did you break your back? Ouch.
Pars defect coupled with an impact trauma to the area. Had a kid accidentally jump on me when I was laying down on my stomach. Never knew there was an issue until the accident. Most people don't know they have a problem until they're twice my age.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Not sure if the pictures are coming through. Things are slow going, starting to fab up the exhaust. It's going to get pretty tight pretty quick. Going to lower brake pedal while I'm in there, I've always had some issues with the position of the pedal and just rolling it forward will give back some room and make things more ergonomic.

Thanks for the well wishes, hoping this whole pandemic thing doesn't delay my surgery.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Getting the headers fabbed up. They are not the prettiest weld by any means, I haven't TIG'ed in a couple years, on pain meds, on dirty stainless. HA! Took a bit to get the rhythm back and get the settings dialed in, without much scrap to practice on it started out rough but finally got it back. You can definitely see where I started, luckily they'll be buried when installed so I won't have to be embarrassed about them ;).

Tightened the bend on the rear header, and changed the angle of it. A double slip joint for it is on the way. Got the front partly done. Going to finish it up today hopefully, it's actually tougher to do because of the space limitations. The T2 flange will be in later this week, along with a bunch of hard parts. Once the headers are done, some mounts to support all the weight will get added. Going to be pulling the cam cover off later this week to weld in an oil return port, and that will pretty much sum up 70% of the work for now.

Pictures of completed headers to follow. Stay tuned for intake work!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,536 Posts
Damn!
Sounds like one helluva project.
And your welds look better than anything I've ever done. I think ugly ones add to the character and tell a story.
Are you still gonna use Arduino for controllers?
You can just drag and drop photos from your desktop. It's easier, i think, than using attachments.
Seems like you have a lot of experience with these mods. Definitely not for the faint of heart.
Thanks so much for posting up @Stammykins . I find this really interesting and educational.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Damn!
Sounds like one helluva project.
And your welds look better than anything I've ever done. I think ugly ones add to the character and tell a story.
Are you still gonna use Arduino for controllers?
You can just drag and drop photos from your desktop. It's easier, i think, than using attachments.
Seems like you have a lot of experience with these mods. Definitely not for the faint of heart.
Thanks so much for posting up @Stammykins . I find this really interesting and educational.
Usually I'm posting from my phone, my laptop needs to get taken apart and cleaned and gets really hot right now. But looks like the pictures have worked so far.

Still planning on using Arduino for a boost controller in final form. I'm waiting on some transistors to come in. Couldn't source any locally unfortunately. TLV2371 and TIP120. The TLV2371 should be able to be used in a voltage follower configuration to rear off the same TMAP sensor as the ECM (for space savings reasons). I found a few different places where people tried to do things like this and the added circuit messed with the readings on the ECM, from what they described it had to do with circuit loading because they didn't have high enough impedance on their added circuitry. The TLV271 should have high enough input impedance to prevent that, while allowing enough response that the Arduino won't have too much hysteresis. TIP120 will be driven by the Arduino to send signal to the wastegate actuator. The actuator is the same that comes on some diesel sprinter vans, jeep CRD engines, and mercedes OM642 engines. There are a few different models, but all can be operated by a PWM signal. The Arduino will read that, control that, and i'm going to built a little enclosure for an OLED screen to mount on the bars or (more likely) at the top of the gauge cluster that will read out boost and have a couple tactile buttons/rotary encoder to allow adjustments in setpoint and response. I'm an amateur with Arduino, this is my first project with one.

For now, I'll probably use the pneumatic actuator that the turbo had when I picked it up, came off an SR20DET out of an S14. I have to test what pressure it's set for, it's non-adjustable. It might be too high for the stock motor, I mean this turbo is on the very clear edge of too big too. Which is why there is a 131 taken apart in my dining room as well!


A little background on me:

I have always been a gearhead, I became obsessed with motors when I was maybe 2 or 3 years old when I rode in my first restomod muscle car. Rebuilt my first snowblower at 6 (with some help from my mom and dad because I wasn't physically big enough to do some of it). By the time I was 10, I had built up my TRX70 quad to be 90cc and changed the gearing to hit a top speed of over 40mph. Things just keep going from there. I went to college for nuclear engineering, electrical engineering, and mechanical engineering, with specializations in combustion and electromagnetics. When I was in college I fell in love with welding and machining. Built up those skills while at school and took a job in engineering and started working full time before I even graduated. Been there since. Moved around a bit internally and now am in the test group where we make electronic DAQ systems.

8 years ago I bought my first diesel truck, and that started the whole large vehicle performance bug. Built that truck up so it could tow and race. Drifted it for a bit, too. Ironically picked the "harder" fuel type to tune to start with on EFI. Then swapped my 98 mustang with a blown mach 1 motor. Played with that until I got bored with it, and discouraged. Had a blown head gasket I didn't know about and hydrolocked a cylinder over winter, ejected a piston out the bottom end. Turbo'd a couple lawnmowers, did EFI on them, was going to turbo my Victory until I decided I wanted a bigger more practical bike for traveling; upgraded and now here we are, I'm building a Road Glide that will hopefully be able to put down more than 300HP and still be able to ride cross-country.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,536 Posts
DAMN!
i had to turn my gargle machine to overdrive just to figure out what the hell you were talking about lol
best lesson i ever learned was that ignorant was not a dirty word or a fault, and that you shouldn't be afraid to admit it.

having the DAQ working knowledge will definitely get you through this. i've heard that Arduino is a little sketchy, but haven't really used it or looked too far into it.

didn't enjoy physics much in high skrool. don't have the patience or IQ i guess, or just too lazy. seemed to run up against a brick wall. i really enjoy people explaining it to me in practical applications like this.
we all could use a little mental exercise now and again.

thanks for the insight and looking forward to your posts, @Stammykins
can't wait to see that 300HP beast out on the highway
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Some more progress. Need to pick up another 90 deg bend, then I'll have headers completed. I really like how they came out. Once the turbo is mounted I'll make a down pipe. I have a divided outlet flange that is used on the SR20 motor, but it turns right into your leg, so I'll probably just make my own reusing the flange.

I think the intercooler is going to end up on the left side of the bike, it's just not going to fit on the right side, at least not nicely. Thought about running the headers to the left but the turbo can't get tucked in far enough to keep the turbine or headers away from your leg at all while keeping the lowers. I can send pre-cooler piping around the lower, sorta hug the corner of the lower glove box, then bring the cooled pipe back across the opening above the front rocker cover. Once the intercooler arrives I'll decide what to do, might mount it funky on the right side because the right glove box is going to be mostly lost to the coolant reservoir anyway.

Also got the brake pedal rotated forward. I wish I took pictures as I cut it apart. I cut WAY too deep. The center portion looked like 2 different tubes, couldn't find pictures of someone else doing this. I went slow but was just too shallow cutting through the root of the weld, they really have the robots dialed in on the pedal. If I had to do it again, I'd be spot on for sure. Fit it up and voila, pedal is much more ergonomic. Can no longer fuck my foot right up against the back of the lower fairing, but I only did that if I was caught in a sudden downpour anyway.can get full trike of the pedal without interence to anything. Only thing I can see is maybe shortening the length of the arm maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch so I don't have to reach for it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So got the turbo mounted, and realized I didn't account for the flange thickness, so need to redo the collector a little. Got the twin cooled lowers in, did not realize the reservoir takes up 90% of the right glove box. So I'm not as concerned about it anymore... Unfortunately.

Waiting on a bung to weld in to the cam cover for oil return and I'll be rolling with boost!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
So got the turbo mounted, and realized I didn't account for the flange thickness, so need to redo the collector a little. Got the twin cooled lowers in, did not realize the reservoir takes up 90% of the right glove box. So I'm not as concerned about it anymore... Unfortunately.

Waiting on a bung to weld in to the cam cover for oil return and I'll be rolling with boost!
No pictures?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
No pictures?!
Pictures. This took a back seat to some paying work for a few days.

Still working out air plumbing and intercooler positioning. It's going to go above the turbo, and go directly into the throttle body for now. I'm going to 3D print an intake plenum for a prototype, then build a final out of metal and polycarb. Oil lines will tap off pressure sender port and return through the cam chest cover. It's likely that I'll have oil running through by Saturday. Waiting on 10AN male bungs coming by mail.

Need to bend the rear brake lever to move it outward and rotate it up a few degrees. Ordered up some 1.25" floorboard spacers, going to combine the 0.75" and the new ones to get the floorboard out enough to get by the turbo. I basically only use them when braking anyway...

Downpipe is going to exit similar to the commercial turbo kits for now. Eventually it'll likely run single rear exit under the right bag.

Boost/vac gauge is going to replace the stock voltmeter gauge. I have a USB charger port with voltmeter instead of cig lighter so the gauge isn't really necessary anymore. Boost up there will be much better. Originally I was going to have the electronic controller drive a display on the handlebars to act as vac/boost as well as settings, but it's just another piece to build that is difficult to make robust.

In the future I'll be upgrading to my homemade electronic boostcontroller, but for now I just want to get this thing running down the road and make sure all the mechanical/ergonomic things are ironed out.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top