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2012 RG with 25k miles and up to date on all recalls. 3 weeks ago Check engine and battery lights both come so I take bike home, remove seat check battery and wiring for any loose parts or breaks. Found nothing started bike back up and no problems at all.

Wed, rode to NY app. 300 miles with no issues, thursday rode app. 25 miles and both lights came on again. Turned bike off, tried to restart and nothing but clicking, jumped motorcycle using cables and another motorcycle, bike started right up and no warning lights seen.

Friday rode app. 60 miles and both lights came on again, shut bike off and would not restart, same clicking sound, jumped bike again from another motorcycle. Rode app. 20 more miles and slowly lost lights, gauges and throttle control.

Had bike towed to nearest HD dealer and waited 4 hrs while they put it through a bunch of tests only to tell me after $255 bill that they found nothing wrong with the battery or the charging system? ARRRGGHHHHH

Looks like I need to find it myself and an electrician I am not. I have a 2009 RG as well with no issues and am thinking of either swapping batteries although I doubt it is a battery issue or maybe swapping voltage regulators to see if it happens to my 09 or if it still happens to the 12?

Any other idea's or tips? I have a whole work order from the dealer saying everything they checked which seem like a lot but I know none of them tend to think outside the box. If the book says to test it this way then thats all they do.
 

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Had the same issue and both stator and regulator were replaced under warranty but I had to pitch a fit to get anything done. The plug between the two was burnt. It would only come on after 20 miles on the highway so I made them ride it 20 miles on the highway until they witnessed the problem themselves.

They then blamed my aftermarket amp and I called Harley and filed a claim and a few days later it was fixed under warranty. My bike is a 2013. This was at 19k miles, I am now at 42500 without another issue. Fingers crossed.

Sometimes you gotta be a real pain in their ass to get them to do anything. That is what I have found. If you are mild mannered they will tell you "it's fine no problems" and you will be stuck with the same issue as before.

Drew
 

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Since there is not a definitive way to tell the VR is bad until it completely fails, and since it is easy to test the stator and see a problem and since you dropped $255 on the dealer and they couldn't find a problem, and since the 2012's have a notable history of VR problems. I would conclude all evidence at hand points to the VR. It is an easily replaceable part and is not terribly pricey. If I were you, I would buy a new one and swap it out. Bet that'll fix your issue.
 

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Since there is not a definitive way to tell the VR is bad until it completely fails, and since it is easy to test the stator and see a problem and since you dropped $225 on the dealer and they couldn't find a problem, and since the 2012's have a notable history of VR problems. I would conclude all evidence at hand points to the VR. It is an easily replaceable part and is not terribly pricey. If I were you I would buy a new one and swap it out. Bet that'll fix your issue.
I think if the battery went dead that it is the stator as opposed to VR as no charging from the stator means the battery will not charge. However, if the VR went bad the battery would fry as well from excessive voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think if the battery went dead that it is the stator as opposed to VR as no charging from the stator means the battery will not charge. However, if the VR went bad the battery would fry as well from excessive voltage.
With my luck it is the stator because it seems like that is a labor intensive part to replace but maybe I will try to swap out the VR 1st.
 

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The voltage regulator can also cause a no charge condition.
The VR will act up where it won't charge the bike and it will do it all of a sudden and it can be intermittent at times.
Watch your voltage gauge and see what happens when it acts up. If the stator is going bad then the voltage gauge will show a charge when the bike is started when cold but as the bike warms up the voltage will slowly drop and stay around 10 volts on the gauge.
If the VR starts to go bad then you can have fluctuation in the voltage gauge which can either be +/- and then it can go back to normal.
Chance are the VR is the problem because of the history of failure on the 2012 and later models and it is the easiest to R&R so that is where I would start.
The check engine light is a indication that there are DTCs in the ECM and they need to be cleared and the procedure for accessing and reading/clearing the DTCs is in the troubleshooting section.
 
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Mostly likely not your stator. Here is a simple test on electrical components

Voltages should read as follows:

Battery (fresh full charge with bike off) - 12.x
Battery (with bike running) - 14.x
Stator (with bike running *) - 24-27.x

all in volts. Note: to check stator locate the cable coming from the primary close to were the stator is and follow to voltage regulator. It should be a 3 prong female plug. Between any three your volt meter needs to read the above voltage when it is on. Be careful not to touch the metal points on volt meter or you will get a nice surprise.

My 2012 did the same thing in terms of lights coming on and same patterns and it ended up being the VR.
 

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The voltage regulator can also cause a no charge condition.
The VR will act up where it won't charge the bike and it will do it all of a sudden and it can be intermittent at times.
Watch your voltage gauge and see what happens when it acts up. If the stator is going bad then the voltage gauge will show a charge when the bike is started when cold but as the bike warms up the voltage will slowly drop and stay around 10 volts on the gauge.
If the VR starts to go bad then you can have fluctuation in the voltage gauge which can either be +/- and then it can go back to normal.
Chance are the VR is the problem because of the history of failure on the 2012 and later models and it is the easiest to R&R so that is where I would start.
The check engine light is a indication that there are DTCs in the ECM and they need to be cleared and the procedure for accessing and reading/clearing the DTCs is in the troubleshooting section.
Exactly what happen to me,i replaced the VR all good now after checking all the steps described in the manual. I install with a cycle electric.
 

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If you pull the stator plug from the back of the VR and you test the voltage coming from the stator you should get 16-23 VAC per 1000 rpm.
So at a idle any reading on the stator wires that read 16 to 23 VAC is a sign that the stator is in working order.
You can also open the primary derby cover and if you smell burnt wires then the stator is bad.
 
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I think if the battery went dead that it is the stator as opposed to VR as no charging from the stator means the battery will not charge. However, if the VR went bad the battery would fry as well from excessive voltage.
But if the dealer actually did check the bike for the $255 the OP paid them, They would have tested the stator output. If the stator was bad they would have seen that. The VR on the other hand is not readily testable. it's either working or it isn't. At the time they had it, it was working. It's likely intermittent on it's way to total failure :frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
But if the dealer actually did check the bike for the $255 the OP paid them, They would have tested the stator output. If the stator was bad they would have seen that. The VR on the other hand is not readily testable. it's either working or it isn't. At the time they had it, it was working. It's likely intermittent on it's way to total failure :frown:
Good point, Thank you. Thank you all I will replace the VR and let ya know if that solves it.
 

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All the dealer needs to do to test the charging system is pull the seat and see if there is 14 volts at the battery when the bike is running. If they do the test when the bike is cold then the stator can put out 16 - 23 VDC because stator failure won't show up in some cases until the bike warms up. Do you really think that the lazy bastards are going to do more than they need too. The bike was probably sitting in the back with no one looking at it just so they can rack up the charges. Kind of like the way the dealer charges 2 or 3 hours labor to do a 20 minute oil change. JMO
 

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Glad I found this

I had this problem once before and it "fixed" itself. Now this afternoon it's back. Came here looking for anybody that had the same situation and here it is. Verifiable, very nice.
 

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I had the same thing with my 2012, but it was before the recall on the VR's. Dealer replaced it under warranty and I've had no problems since. I have 66K miles on the bike now, problem was in the first 5K or so.
 
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