West Coast T Bar Installation Guide?
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After typing all that out, I just realized your bike is an '01. Mine is a '15. I don't know how helpful all that will be lol. There's a little more information out there for the '13 an older bikes.
I couldn't find one...
I just kind of jumped in with both feet. I've run into several issues since this is my first time doing internally wired bars and the T-Bars have not been the easiest...
Words of advice, TAKE YOUR TIME! Also, document everything. Where connectors unplug from, what wires go into the plugs, take pictures, EVERYTHING... Stay organized.
Removing the old bars is simple and straight forward...
Install is a little more of a pain, especially since there aren't any directions to be found...
Cutting the nacelle...
Take your time, the template is all but useless except for locating where to start your pilot holes. After doing mine, I think starting the holes right on top of the middle ridge would have worked better. It would have been slightly higher that where the template ended up. I used a step bit and a dremel thinking it would be easier than a hole saw. I'm not so sure, now. If I do it over again, I will use a hole saw and jig it up in a drill press. Be sure to mock it up on the bike with the gauges back in and with the bars before you wire them to make sure you have enough clearance. Once the wires are in, it becomes a lot more cumbersome.
There is a ground wire on the stock lower clamp. I cut off the factory terminal and crimped on the smallest wire diameter with the largest ring terminal I could find locally. For me, it was a 14-16G wire with a 3/8" ring terminal. I had to snip it and make it a fork and kind of thread it on the bolt between the bars and the risers.
Speaking of risers, I highly recommend replacing your bushings. I used Good-N-Tite riser bushings. They're much better than stock. You will HAVE to buy longer bolts if you change the riser bushings. The stock bolts aren't long enough to even start. They're 1/2" course thread bolts, 13 tpi I think. Stock are 2", I used 2-1/2" grade 8. Pay attention to the bolt heads. Flange bolts will not work, they're too thick to fit between the trees and the little shield under the bolts. I learned this the hard way. They were the first ones i found at the hardware store and they wouldn't work haha. I had to make several trips for stuff and it dragged out my install significantly.
Now for the fun part, wiring... I needed help, you might be able to do it alone, it's just kind of awkward.
When you get the bars, you'll see that there is no way to pull any of the connectors through the bars. I had to remove EVERY single connector. I bought a couple special picks from Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories for the smaller ones. It was 2 picks, or "terminal wire extractors" for like 12 bucks shipped. Once again, before you take anything apart, take TONS of pictures and take your time with the connectors. The little ones are tricky.
The left side is easy. Just pull the switch control wires through using A LOT of wire pulling lubrication. All the videos say to use "westinghouse chain". I tried, it kept binding up on the little balls. I used the chain to pull some avis strap through the bars and pull my wires using that with much better results.
The throttle side is a little harder. I saw a video saying to try to pull the switch wires and the TBW wires together, don't even try. Pull the TBW wires first, then the switch control wires. The way the bars neck down is right at the location of the dreaded green TBW plug. It WILL NOT pass over the control switch wires when trying to pull them together. Now you're all set to install. Same procedure as removing in reverse, but you'll need 2 people... It makes it MUCH easier. My girlfriend help the bars while I bolted them up.
That's kind of a quick run down... I ran into a few problems because I'm an idiot and don't always think things through all the way...
I tried to pull the wires with the connectors on first and the TBW and control wires at the same time. It wouldn't work. I chewed up some of the tubing that covers the wires pulling them back out. I decided to take all the covering off (since I was pulling the connectors anyway) and put heat shrink on all the wires and then recovered them with similar plastic tubing that the factory uses. I used red heat shrink so it would be easy to see if I had more problems and I could catch it before it got into the wires. I thought a little extra protection wouldn't be a bad idea since the bars already chewed that stuff up, it must be pretty sharp in there. I only did this on the switch control wires... I got the heat shrink and tubing from Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories. Guy has very reasonably priced stuff and more connectors that you'll know what to do with
For the TBW green connector, I put heat shrink over it and was gentle with it.
Having said all that, my install still isn't complete. It has been a helluva learning experience and I hope I can help out a few others with these bars since there doesn't seem to be much info out there on them. If you have any questions let me know.
I couldn't find one...
I just kind of jumped in with both feet. I've run into several issues since this is my first time doing internally wired bars and the T-Bars have not been the easiest...
Words of advice, TAKE YOUR TIME! Also, document everything. Where connectors unplug from, what wires go into the plugs, take pictures, EVERYTHING... Stay organized.
Removing the old bars is simple and straight forward...
Install is a little more of a pain, especially since there aren't any directions to be found...
Cutting the nacelle...
Take your time, the template is all but useless except for locating where to start your pilot holes. After doing mine, I think starting the holes right on top of the middle ridge would have worked better. It would have been slightly higher that where the template ended up. I used a step bit and a dremel thinking it would be easier than a hole saw. I'm not so sure, now. If I do it over again, I will use a hole saw and jig it up in a drill press. Be sure to mock it up on the bike with the gauges back in and with the bars before you wire them to make sure you have enough clearance. Once the wires are in, it becomes a lot more cumbersome.
There is a ground wire on the stock lower clamp. I cut off the factory terminal and crimped on the smallest wire diameter with the largest ring terminal I could find locally. For me, it was a 14-16G wire with a 3/8" ring terminal. I had to snip it and make it a fork and kind of thread it on the bolt between the bars and the risers.
Speaking of risers, I highly recommend replacing your bushings. I used Good-N-Tite riser bushings. They're much better than stock. You will HAVE to buy longer bolts if you change the riser bushings. The stock bolts aren't long enough to even start. They're 1/2" course thread bolts, 13 tpi I think. Stock are 2", I used 2-1/2" grade 8. Pay attention to the bolt heads. Flange bolts will not work, they're too thick to fit between the trees and the little shield under the bolts. I learned this the hard way. They were the first ones i found at the hardware store and they wouldn't work haha. I had to make several trips for stuff and it dragged out my install significantly.
Now for the fun part, wiring... I needed help, you might be able to do it alone, it's just kind of awkward.
When you get the bars, you'll see that there is no way to pull any of the connectors through the bars. I had to remove EVERY single connector. I bought a couple special picks from Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories for the smaller ones. It was 2 picks, or "terminal wire extractors" for like 12 bucks shipped. Once again, before you take anything apart, take TONS of pictures and take your time with the connectors. The little ones are tricky.
The left side is easy. Just pull the switch control wires through using A LOT of wire pulling lubrication. All the videos say to use "westinghouse chain". I tried, it kept binding up on the little balls. I used the chain to pull some avis strap through the bars and pull my wires using that with much better results.
The throttle side is a little harder. I saw a video saying to try to pull the switch wires and the TBW wires together, don't even try. Pull the TBW wires first, then the switch control wires. The way the bars neck down is right at the location of the dreaded green TBW plug. It WILL NOT pass over the control switch wires when trying to pull them together. Now you're all set to install. Same procedure as removing in reverse, but you'll need 2 people... It makes it MUCH easier. My girlfriend help the bars while I bolted them up.
That's kind of a quick run down... I ran into a few problems because I'm an idiot and don't always think things through all the way...
I tried to pull the wires with the connectors on first and the TBW and control wires at the same time. It wouldn't work. I chewed up some of the tubing that covers the wires pulling them back out. I decided to take all the covering off (since I was pulling the connectors anyway) and put heat shrink on all the wires and then recovered them with similar plastic tubing that the factory uses. I used red heat shrink so it would be easy to see if I had more problems and I could catch it before it got into the wires. I thought a little extra protection wouldn't be a bad idea since the bars already chewed that stuff up, it must be pretty sharp in there. I only did this on the switch control wires... I got the heat shrink and tubing from Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories. Guy has very reasonably priced stuff and more connectors that you'll know what to do with
For the TBW green connector, I put heat shrink over it and was gentle with it.
Having said all that, my install still isn't complete. It has been a helluva learning experience and I hope I can help out a few others with these bars since there doesn't seem to be much info out there on them. If you have any questions let me know.
I really appreciate it. I changed out my fork oil and seals this weekend so i took apart the whole front of the bike including inner and outter fairing to get ready for the bars. I havent gotten them yet. My old bars were 17" ape hangers with the wires internal. I pulled all of the wires out already and pulled the wires out from the connector plug. So im hoping its ready to go into the bars.
I guess my question is the stock bolts on the tree that are 2". I took my risers off and noticed that there is a plate on the bottom side of the tree which doesnt allow me to take the bolts out. Can you remove the bottom plate to get those bolts out? I didnt under why i would need the new bolts so i have purchased any and the website was out of them. I did buy new bushing though.
Ive been looking everywhere for an installation guide and cant find anything. Thanks for your help. Hopefully ill be completing mine this weekend.
I guess my question is the stock bolts on the tree that are 2". I took my risers off and noticed that there is a plate on the bottom side of the tree which doesnt allow me to take the bolts out. Can you remove the bottom plate to get those bolts out? I didnt under why i would need the new bolts so i have purchased any and the website was out of them. I did buy new bushing though.
Ive been looking everywhere for an installation guide and cant find anything. Thanks for your help. Hopefully ill be completing mine this weekend.
I don't know about on an '01, but on mine I just had to turn the wheel back and forth enough that the bolt would clear the little plate. It was pretty much lock to lock. Once I had the forks turned, there was nothing there preventing the bolts from coming out...
I did struggle with the plastic clamp that holds all of the hydraulic lines to the side of the neck, I don't think you'll have that problem on the older bike though.
I did struggle with the plastic clamp that holds all of the hydraulic lines to the side of the neck, I don't think you'll have that problem on the older bike though.
Also, any regular old grade 8 bolt should work. Should be able to pick them up at any hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowe's. Just make sure not to get flange bolts like I did haha
The factory bolts are grade 5, upgrading them to grade 8 is just precautionary and for peace of mind... Depending on the bushings you're using, you might be able to use the stock bolts. I couldn't because the new bushings we're not compressed at all which made them significantly taller than the old bushings which is why the old bolts wouldn't work.
The factory bolts are grade 5, upgrading them to grade 8 is just precautionary and for peace of mind... Depending on the bushings you're using, you might be able to use the stock bolts. I couldn't because the new bushings we're not compressed at all which made them significantly taller than the old bushings which is why the old bolts wouldn't work.
I am figuring i will need new bolts. One for like you said, stronger but also because i bought the bushings from west coast t bars store which also sells the grade 8 and 9 bolts. I took down your info on the bolts and what i found on west coast t bars and ill run to the store and buy some. I didnt look at the bolts that are stock to much just knew that when i took the risers off i had to use an open ended wrench to get at them because the plate was in the way. Ill look tonight and rotate the front end to see if the bolts line up past the plate. Once again thanks for the help!
Yeah you should definitely be able to rotate the front end to get at the bolts. You may have to reach in there and hold them up so they don't drag.
Another question for you. The gauge bezel cover.....how the hell do you bolt that down. I have the split nacelle plastic cover with my switches on it. I see you have to drill holes into it for the gauge bezel cover bolts to go through. How do you put a nut on it?
If I'm looking at everything correct, and I'm taking me time doing this, you need to put the gauge bezel cover and the speedo/tach onto the bars first then you can bolt them on. As of right now I can't get my hand up inside the nacelle to put a nut on. Do you have to bolt the gauge bezel cover onto the nacelle then slide everything on? I just don't know if I can do that cause I can't get my wires off the cruise switch.
Thanks.
If I'm looking at everything correct, and I'm taking me time doing this, you need to put the gauge bezel cover and the speedo/tach onto the bars first then you can bolt them on. As of right now I can't get my hand up inside the nacelle to put a nut on. Do you have to bolt the gauge bezel cover onto the nacelle then slide everything on? I just don't know if I can do that cause I can't get my wires off the cruise switch.
Thanks.
Yeah you should definitely be able to rotate the front end to get at the bolts. You may have to reach in there and hold them up so they don't drag.
Thanks for the help.
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