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The amps are all the same, the flash for a boom2 setup though is what you’d need to use the speakers, and as stated, non of TRs stuff does that. Just use the amp with the stage 1 speakers. You need to flash the head unit for 1 amp 2 speakers and also turn on the amp in the switches settings. Both steps are required.
 

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well, damn. nuff said.....


ssitruc, yes, i did get the harness as well. wonder if i can somehow use that amp with the stage 1 speakers? that was the original intent, but when the amp came, it was the complete stage 2 setup with speakers and all, i thought it was a bonus. guess trying to be cheap and not going balls deep into an audio upgrade is going to bite me in the ass.
If you saved a nice chunk on the equipment, a dealer shouldn't charge you more than an hour for the flash as I'm sure that's their minimum fee nowadays. It only takes about 5-10 minutes.
 

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Like the guys are saying, if you want to use the speakers, and have it set up for the Stage II 2 speakers, get the dealer to flash it... sucks, but I would be in the same boat because my programmer won't do Stage II either. I would go this route if it were me, because you already have the stuff... I would just turn the bass down, or at least don't crank the bass up on that setup, seems to be, at one time anyway, that people were having issues blowing those speakers.

As far as other options, I have 1 Boom amp and 4 speakers, the "Stage I" version speakers... because I am cheap. It is better than the stock setup was and I can hear it better going down the road. The Stage I speakers are single channels from the amp that hook up like your stock speakers, and you can program those yourself. Then, IF you wanted, you could add lowers, tour pack, or saddle bag speakers later, because you'll have the two rear channels available... and you can program that too. Which would be the way my bike is 95% of the time, because I usually don't have the King tour pack on it. BUT, I wouldn't just add the amp and use the base stock speakers (unless yours came with Stage I speakers), because I don't think the factory Boom speakers will hold up to the amps output for very long, the factory or "base speakers" are rated just for the head units power.

Carlos explained that the Stage II, and even the new Rockford Fosgate "systems" are basically going to have to be done by a HD dealer because HD at this time will not share that coding so that Indy's can work on it, using the aftermarket programmers.
 

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On another note, are you the guy that has two bikes, one that CarPlay works with or without a headset (no jumpers required) and the other bike requires a headset (or a jumper)?

just an FYI, while talking to Carlos, I explained to him the setting in Diag4Bike to disable "Apple CarPlay Mic Type", to see if they had any plans to add it to their software. He said theirs already does it, it happens when you enable BOTH the phone and WHIM, then it will take the mic "requirement" away automatically. If I remember right, where you enable WHIM on Centurion is under Radio Enable/Disable Features, and then under Bluetooth, then enable WHIM and Phone. He also then, emphatically, talked about the need to use an Apple branded cable instead of off brand cable.... but I don't even use a cable any more, because I am using a wireless CarPlay module plugged into the USB...

But, I have not verified it on mine, because I already have mine setup, and I don't have the Centurion SuperPro stuff at my house.
 

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He also then, emphatically, talked about the need to use an Apple branded cable instead of off brand cable
That's not that big of a deal. I pretty much never use an Apple cable. As long as it a Sync/Charge cable you'll be fine. Most people don't verify the Sync part and that's what will get ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
@ssitruc yes, that is me, i have 2 bikes. mine and my wife's. my carplay works fine without, while her's seems to require her headset to be turned on first.

and yes, i do have the stage 1 speakers already.
 
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