Road Glide banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Digging into my 2010 RG this winter and mimicking a motor set-up that a buddy of mine has.

I'm slowly acquiring parts and here's a list of what I already have:
110" cylinders w/10.5:1 compression pistons
SE 259E cams
SE Spring kit (for the 259E cams)
S&S cam install kit

What lifters do you folks have experience with?
I know to stay away from SE lifters - I read about a class-action law suit.
Fueling seem to read well on paper but are pricey.
S&S?

Will probably go with adjustable push rods too. Although it looks like I could get away with SE tapered non-adjustable push rods.

I appreciate the input.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,507 Posts
S&S high performance lifters , or premiums , but prems are about a c note more and the hi perfs are fine and S&S quickee adjustable pushrods , get the pushrod kit , the S&S rods require S&S covers ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
Digging into my 2010 RG this winter and mimicking a motor set-up that a buddy of mine has.

I'm slowly acquiring parts and here's a list of what I already have:
110" cylinders w/10.5:1 compression pistons
SE 259E cams
SE Spring kit (for the 259E cams)
S&S cam install kit

What lifters do you folks have experience with?
I know to stay away from SE lifters - I read about a class-action law suit.
Fueling seem to read well on paper but are pricey.
S&S?

Will probably go with adjustable push rods too. Although it looks like I could get away with SE tapered non-adjustable push rods.

I appreciate the input.
S&S standards are fine. Don't know why you would want to use adjustable PR's since you will already be pulling the top end to replace the cylinders. I prefer non-adjustable unless I just don't want to remove the rockers and save time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
S&S standards are fine. Don't know why you would want to use adjustable PR's since you will already be pulling the top end to replace the cylinders. I prefer non-adjustable unless I just don't want to remove the rockers and save time.
I'm with you on that - seems a point of failure to me.
Like you said, I'm taking the engine apart for upgrades, figured I would just get a set of the SE perfect fit units but was open to opinions.

Screamin' Eagle lists stock length tapered pushrods in their big $$ kit that has the 259E cam.


Thanks everyone for the comments/input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
S&S standards going into mine when I stab the cams in it over the winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,386 Posts
I went with feuling lifters. Just be sure the rollers are hardened steel. Not a hardened coating. Like the ones Harley puts in it stock. I had a lifter fail due to the coating chipping off and clogging up the journals.

Curious if the S&S standards are coated and the premiums are solid. Besides the premiums being made in USA what's the difference. Also swap out the sloppy crank drive gear for the one Zippers makes. 0 lash. The stock one had so much play it was a joke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I went with feuling lifters. Just be sure the rollers are hardened steel. Not a hardened coating. Like the ones Harley puts in it stock. I had a lifter fail due to the coating chipping off and clogging up the journals.

Curious if the S&S standards are coated and the premiums are solid. Besides the premiums being made in USA what's the difference. Also swap out the sloppy crank drive gear for the one Zippers makes. 0 lash. The stock one had so much play it was a joke.
I have a 2010. I still have chains.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,401 Posts
Check the life cycle on any of the lifters you put in. I've read people before saying S&S says to change them every 20k miles. If that's the case, go get some small block chevy lifters and use those. Just change the top caps on them.




Can you point me to the direction of this class action lawsuit you've read about? I'm on my 2nd 110 engine and have not heard anything about it. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Check the life cycle on any of the lifters you put in. I've read people before saying S&S says to change them every 20k miles. If that's the case, go get some small block chevy lifters and use those. Just change the top caps on them.




Can you point me to the direction of this class action lawsuit you've read about? I'm on my 2nd 110 engine and have not heard anything about it. Thanks.
I'll see if I can find the link.
It was referenced multiple times on different forums.

I thought the Chevy lifters didn't provide enough oil to the top of the engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,386 Posts
I have a 2010. I still have chains.
So do I. It's the drive gear on the crank that the chain runs off of. When you take the chain off move the gear back and forth. See how much play it has. When they showed me I thought it was worn. It's not. That tolerance is so sloppy youd think it was on it's way out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,242 Posts
I’ve used a lot of Comp Cams 850 lifters. Made in the USA. Great lifters and very quiet. For the price they are EXTREMELY hard to beat.

If you have a stock 103 those 110 jugs may or may not fit without machining the cases. Where did you get them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,572 Posts
I have the Comp Cams V Thunder Lifters and Smith Brothers Adjustable Pushrods in my 12 Custom and love them.
Awesome Products from Great Companies.
Just My .02 Cents.
Mike U.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,387 Posts
The SE springs that come with the 259e cams are pretty stiff. Actually real stiff on the seats. You might want to think about upgrading the pushrods. I'm not a fan of adjustable rods, just another point of failure, or four points to be exact. You might want to look at some tapered pushrods. More strength with less mass then adjustable rods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,401 Posts
I’ve used a lot of Comp Cams 850 lifters. Made in the USA. Great lifters and very quiet. For the price they are EXTREMELY hard to beat.

If you have a stock 103 those 110 jugs may or may not fit without machining the cases. Where did you get them?

Exact discussion going on now on the CVO forum. Not sure if you saw that one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
Curious if the S&S standards are coated and the premiums are solid. Besides the premiums being made in USA what's the difference.
I haven't verified this yet but I have been told that when the Lifters are made for S&S that they go through a test and the ones that meet a certain criteria are packaged as the "Premium" lifters and the ones that do not are packaged as the "Standards". Don't know what those standards are and I can't confirm if this is actually what they do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks everyone for the replies.
Ended up scoring a set of S&S High-Performance Hydraulic Tappets for $84 shipped.

Found a set of exact fit Screamin' Eagle tapered pushrods for $75.
(I was also worried about the stiff SE springs beating the stock pushrods) The $75 seemed like cheap insurance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,242 Posts
Sounds great. Glad that you found some lifters that will work for you.

For anybody reading this thread. I usually order the Comp Cams lifters from Summit Racing using part number 850-16. These are the exact same lifters that are sold as the V-Thunder line. The -16 indicates 16 lifters for a V8 application. Total price $198.99. Enough to do 4 bikes. I have S&S premium lifters in two of my bikes. The rest have had Comp Cams 850’s. The bikes I have with the 850’s are quieter and have less lifter rattle after not running for a period of time. Plus, try and search for failures using the Comp 850’s, it’s hard to find anyone that isn’t happy with the performance or has had issues with them.

This isn’t a dig on S&S at all. Fabulous products.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top