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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I gotta ask for help on this one... I had a whine develop on my bike that started out quiet and got louder over the course of a few hundred miles. My first thought was cam bearings or something in the engine. I have a mechanic's stethoscope and I poked around. The loudest I could hear the whine was right on the primary near the starter so I figured inner primary bearing. I tore it down and found the race had a big pit in the face of it and the bearing was gritty. When i pulled the oil seal off there were lots of chunks of metal behind the bearing. After I tore it apart, I found the clutch hub splines sheared off in about the first 1/8" or so. Problem solved? NO. I got a new bearing, race, oil seal and clutch hub, cleaned it all up and got it all back together today... Still whines!

It whines all the time, in gear or not, clutch in or out, and it gets higher pitched and louder when the engine RPM increases. I'm about to push the damn bike in a lake at this point. I've only got 10k on the rebuild after my original crank scissored on me, 42k total on bike.

Here is a link to a youtube video of what it sounds like:

https://youtu.be/XXqgg6GuBZQ

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Chain too tight.
That was my first thought when the whole whine started. I have been running the Hayden M6 tensioner since just after the rebuild. When I pulled it apart, everything looked good and the primary chain was snug with no slack, but not too tight to flex it by hand. When I assembled it this time, I used only the outer spring to keep less tension on it just in case.

I could put the stock tensioner back in adjusted for the right amount of slack and start it up with the cover off(outside!) and see if I am still getting the whine and go from there. I am also going to check every little spot I can get to with the mechanic's stethoscope again.

I am also leaning towards dropping the engine oil and seeing if anything is suspect in there just in case... Is there anything that may be more likely to go bad on a rebuild?
 

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I would suggest putting the stock tensioner in and see if it goes away. You said it started after the rebuild with the Hayden installed. Thats where I would start. I bought a Hayden to put in my bike, but the more reviews I read the more I was convinced it was not going to be better than my stock auto adjuster. Was running a stage 4 103 and never had an issue, new owner still running it, its got 60k on the clock now.
 

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You say the noise is from the primary but you record the noise from the cam side.
If you replace most of the major components in the primary then the noise may very well be coming from another source. I see that you didn't replace the compensator so you didn't inspect the rotor inside the primary so that could be something to look at.
Also you could have a bad cam bearing so pulling apart the cam chest may be something you might have to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the Hayden for about 10k miles before I started getting the noise. The video was an older video from when the noise started and I originally thought it was from that side of the bike.

As far as the compensator, I tried out the BDL compensator before and that was a no go, so I went back with the stock one, its actually in really good shape still. Minimal wear and I don't get kickback on starts or any chattering.

Anyways, I took it for a little ride today, about 15 minutes. Noise was there, got quieter after warmup, and was louder at lower rpm. I came back, poked around and the noise was definitely in the clutch area on the primary side of the bike. I pulled it apart and stuck the stock tensioner back in. NO NOISE!

So even with the one spring, the chain was still too tight with the Hayden. Why would it take 10k miles to start whining and then keep whining after a new bearing? I don't understand these things sometimes.

So for now, I will ride it with the stock setup and I will probably get the Baker adjuster and a Baker compensator in the near future. Thanks for the replies!
 

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One thing about roller chains, once they have started an irregular wear pattern, say from improper tension or alignment, they continue to go south even if you correct the issue. Just like a tire that starts to wear from misalignment, the tires continues to wear irregularly if you try to align it with the same tires.
 

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first Congrats on resisting the temptation to give
the Bike a float test in the Lake

2nd- why after "whine is gone"...with stock ...would you put another unknown into the equation

And why did it take so long to drop the oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
first Congrats on resisting the temptation to give
the Bike a float test in the Lake

2nd- why after "whine is gone"...with stock ...would you put another unknown into the equation

And why did it take so long to drop the oil?
Thanks! I think I would regret going swimming with the hog...

I don't feel that the Baker components are an unknown to the equation, I think they are an upgrade. I'm going with stock tensioner for now and hopefully it doesn't ratchet up tight and cause issues. But as long as everything is happy in there, I'm not touching it!
On a positive note, I have re-used that stock primary cover gasket I think 7 times now and no leaks!

I didn't drop the oil because I pinpointed the noise as coming from the primary area and not the engine. After I got it all buttoned up yesterday and still had noise, I kind of freaked again. But I started it up, rode it a bit and could tell the noise wasn't from the engine, it was clutch area again.

I've been a bit over-reactive ever since having to fork out for the rebuild:)
 

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Leave the stock compensator and the stock chain tensioner in the bike...

The stock chain tensioner should not over tighten the chain so long as you don't do too much engine braking before the primary is up to full operating temperature
 

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I also took the Hayden tensioner out of my bike when it had around 10K on it , I also thought that the primary chain was too tight with the Hayden.
I just put the stock tensioner back in the ike and I haven't had any problems, just stick with the stock tensioner it worked just fine for 100K miles on my bike and I never had a problem with the clutch bearing. I would go with the Baker comp but you can wait until the comp you're using take a shit.
 
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