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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there everyone,
I'm in the middle of the install and come to find out there are no dimples in the bar for the control wires. Are Chubby's only for internal wiring? I'm pretty fuc#ed if so as I had to cut and solder the TBW

The bike is a 2013 FLTRX and I can't see anyway of getting on the front brake lever as the wires are in the way with a lack of any dimple (started the re-assembly on that side so the clutch is sure to be the same problem).

If they need to be internally wired does anyone have some clues as to how to snake the wires through? The right angle bend was such a bitch with the TBW I can't imagine trying to now add all the control wires.

Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dean
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Arrrgggg

Paul, Yes I am. After reading through a bunch of posts, and the Wild 1 website (again) I came to the conclusion that, as you said, they need to be internally wired.

Took the bars off and am proceeding to undo all my soldering on the TBW. Might even get to hacking up the control harnesses before bed.

This weekend is supposed to be beautiful in PA, I just got my seat back from Mean City Cycles and really want to ride this weekend.

Thanks for the link to your post, I appreciate it. I can't wait to see how the combo of the bars and seat work for my 5'5" frame. Hopefully no more reaching.

Thanks again
Dean

PS: Pics will be taken once complete
 

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Which Wild 1's. I put the 517's on and did not have a lot of problems with the internal wiring. I did get the CVO TBW with the longer wiring rather than soldering the original.

To pull the wires I put through a 12 gauge wire and used this as a pull tape. Also use some wire pull lube, you can get it at a Home Depot. The clutch side is easy, the brake side a little harder with both the TBW and the switch cables.

I took the wires out of the connected to avoid and splices as splices make the cable even bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have 12" Chubby apes.

How do you remove the wires from the connectors? From the back side (wire) or from the connector side (pins)? If I can save myself soldering / insulating / wrapping 23 individual wires that would be a great thing!

Thanks for the help
Dean
 

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Do you have a manual?,if not on the back of the plugs theres numbers marked on them,I watched a you tube video on how to take them apart.harley makes a tool for pulling the pins but a stiff paperclip works as well.note what color wires are in what hole(look for the tracer color because theres a gray wire and a gray/white wire in same plug).on hd forums look for write ups by "dawg" he's really good on projects.I also get the se version TBW so theres no soldering.
 

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the wild one web site has a wiring section that will help with pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got it...went down to the stealer and he showed me how to unlock the wires and then release them from the connector.

Have all the connectors off and now I'm fighting to get them past the 90 degree bend....what a bitch.

I think I may take the award for longest time needed to install a handlebar!

Dean
 

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Not even close. On my previous bile, an '01 Road King Classic I put on Wild 1 508's. I internally wire the switches (spliced so they were thicker than stock), heated hand grips and the wires for a set of J&M handlebar speakers. I had to modify the bars, make the holes bigger to fit all the wires , and it took me a couple of days to get it all done. It was unbelievably tight with all those wires. Heated hand grips and the J&M speakers were never meant to be internally wired.

Everything works great for a while, then the heated handgrips quit working (damn Harley grip fail all the time). I never did fix them.

Of course the bars did not have a 90 degree bend.

Another trick is to take of the OEM black cover and put on heat shrink covers that fit tighter.
 

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25' of weed eater trimmer line and feed 1 wire at a time. Pull first wire through, take tape off, tape 2nd wire on and pull it through. Repeat until all wires are through. Guaranteed to work and not cut up wires. Takes a little longer but in the long run it saves time. thank someone on this forum for this tip, cant remember who. Worked great for my tbars!!


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #13
SUCCESS!!!!!!!

Thanks to everyone who chimed in with tips and advice.
Took all the black wire covering off so there was just wires to pul through. (Kept it and re-used sliding up into bottom of the bar to protect against future vibration).
Got the wires through by staggering them such as tape three wires together, move back three inches and tape another 3 wires to the first three, move back another 3 inches and tape another 3 wires to the first 6, and so on. Worked good - gotta tape them tight though (don't ask me how I know). I used picture hanging wire to pull them through - flexible yet strong.

Yes, the throttle side was a bitch. First wires into the bar were the controls, and them taped the TBW bundle to them (the same as if they were another set of three wires. Lots of cursing, pushing and pulling but eventually went through.

Only wires that were cut were the TBW wires. Made sure to do a perfect solder job, shrink tubing and re-wrapped everything in friction tape (can't even tell they are joints in-line). Looks like factory except for being an inch shorter.

Followed "Donk"'s post (see sticky) for all the unrelated disassembly / reassembly - many thanks Donk.

To my amazement once all back together, EVERYTHING WORKED!!!!!

Here are the pictures of the finished job.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A couple more pics
Notice I have them pulled back, not in-line with forks, to accomodate this short guy (5'5"). Bars feel good - decent each back and hight. I'm glad cause I won't be doing this again!
(Even the cat thought this took to long)
 

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