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Discussion Starter #1
All,

I spent the last couple weekends working on wiring my new 14" outlawz. I got everything together, buttoned up and started the bike - no throttle. *Disappointed*

I followed Donk's post about potential culprits there. Pulled the right side enough to check green connector -sure enough it had pulled out. I repaired that connection, used heat shrink to keep it together -pulled wires back into place, reinstalled on bike. Put everything together save the outer fairing (just in case) ... and yes I tried this with and without headlights hooked up ... click over to ignition, Lights, Radio come on. Switch to the run position on the run/off switch and I hear the fuel pump prime the engine. Hit the starter button and NADA. No effort, no clicking, no lights dimming...nothing.
*Further disappointed*

Anyone know how to verify if the starter relay is good? I always work with the main fuse out whenever doing anything remotely electrical. I'll check all the fuses to make sure they've got continuity. Other than that, I'm back to checking continuity on all wires. Any other suggestions??? I'm hoping I missed something stupid - it's going to be 70+ in NY today ... I really don't want to be in the garage!

Cheers,
G
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Fuses check out. It's not that.

If I turn to ignition with run/off switch in off position, lights come on and radio comes on. ABS light blinks as usual. Once I flip the switch to run position, fuel pump activates. I get the normal engine light in addition to the ABS light blinking. Everything acts normal until I hit the starter and nothing happens.

Still hunting for the issue...
 

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Try to see if something on that same side is not working. Maybe you put the connectors in the wrong slot or soldered two wires wrong. Only a guess at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I thought about that. Everything else on that side works that I can tell...turn signal, run/off switch, radio select. Can't verify cruise, though. Tearing the switch housing apart now to verify connectivity to pins at the connector. We'll see. I'm not even sure what I'm hoping for now. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Check the wires on the plug from that side, may have pushed back in the connector if they didn't snap into place.
Pins are good - right where they ought to be.

BTW - what part of central Iowa? I was just out in Ames and Newton a week ago.

Cheers,
G
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Anyone know how to access wires on these sealed connectors? I've got the switch housing apart and top off of the switch...looks like the whole thing is sealed. I guess that's a good thing when it's all working - weatherproof and all, but what about diagnostics? I can strip some insulation off the wire behind the switch, but that seems a bit precarious.

Thanks for the suggestions guys...keep 'em coming...all ideas welcome.

Cheers,
G
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK - I got smart. I figured I'd check to see if I had a short to the bars instead of unseating pins or removing insulation. Sure enough - one of the two starter switch wires is partially shorted to the bars. I guess we know what that means. I get to pull the bars ... again ... and pull the wires ... again. The good news is I keep getting better and better at it. The bad news is ... I've done it enough to get better at it.

I'll keep y'all posted with results later.

Cheers,
G
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK...not as expected.

I pulled the bars again and started looking at all of my extensions when trying to sort out the issue with the starter. I found that somehow one of my extensions came apart (pin to pin connection inside shrink wrap!) I fixed that, double checked what else I could, spent the time to get it all wrapped up but the outer fairing. Turned the ignition on, run switch to run...hit the ignition...and WHAMO - she fired right up.

NOW...you'd think I'd be happy. However, she fired up and went straight to max throttle with hands off the throttle. I shut her down quick, checked the throttle...still at zero. NOW what? I was completely befuddled. Clearly the wires to the connectors on the right side are fine. TBW seems to be the problem? I checked to see if I had any continuity across any pins on the TBW - NADA. Here we go again - I pulled the bars down again. Checked everything I could outside the bars. 100% fine. I tapped into one of the TBW lines with a pin and tried find connectivity to the end connector. Nothing. Pulled cables out far enough to get to the "Green connector". Checked connectivity between pins in the green connector to the end connector - all 6 continuous, no cross talk. Problem is NOT in the bar. Start reading across the TBW end and find discrete resistance values (640 Ohms across red/black lines on each side and 170 Ohms between the red/white, I think). Odd part is...when I put the green TBW connector together...I get nothing down on the end connector. How in the heck does that happen???

I pulled the pins and sockets out of both ends of the green TBW connector, put the appropriate pins together ... now I get the same readings at the end connector as I did from the socket end Green connector. Apparently the connector wasn't making connection. Must've been from pulling through the bars. I should have listened to Donk and others that said to get rid of that connector. Now, my only decision is to use the pins and sockets or cut them off and hard wire. Any recommendations?

Cheers,
G
 

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I used the pin and socket method on my install. I put the extensions in the deutch connector, pulled the wires thru the bars then connected the extensions to the wires. That way there is no way to pull them apart when pulling the wires and it makes wiring up the deutch connector very easy.:D
 

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Had trouble with mine so I went and bought the tbw for 09 cvo part # 32310-08. It has long enough wires to go all th way to the inner faring.
 

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My vote hard wire. Solder those up. Why pay for another harness? My green connector came apart, I just soldered the wires up, and I've had no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My vote hard wire. Solder those up. Why pay for another harness? My green connector came apart, I just soldered the wires up, and I've had no issues.
I think this is the way to go. Best should have the most strength for pulling the wires in. I only need to go about 8-10" from the top down. Shouldn't be an issue. I agree...not paying for another harness unless I have to.

Cheers,
G
 

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No brain er . Solder and heat shrink .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mine did this also. Check your molex....I had 2 wires reversed....purple vs. Purple with black stripe....
Will do. I'm 99% sure, but that 1% is worth checking. It fired up and ran at idle when the connector came apart inside the bar ... but this could still be an issue. Boy am I glad they aren't all black, white and red! Still...some of them are darn close after a few hours of pulling wires.

Thanks for the tip,
G
 

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After reading all the posts on here of Members having dreaded problems with the good old green plug I opted for the Harley CVO TBW HD Part #32310-08 and it was a great investment as far as I'm concerned.
Mike U.
 

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Never ever had this problem, I cut and solder everytime and everytime I have no problems, done a lot of bikes this way. Yes it takes longer but it's pretty much fool proof, pardon the pun :>)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's all together and runs fine. Have full functionality with the exception of the damn heated grips. Aileron from HD. I checked continuity of wires from bottom end of bar to both sides and I'm all good. All I can think of is the main wires from the fuse panel to the grips must have got disconnected at the grips. I hate the design - has to come out the hole, be pinched in between the controls and clutch, then pinched on the other side going into the left grip. I suspect that's where my problem lies. Might have to cut that open, figure it out. Any ideas what values I should read across the three wires?

Cheers,
G

And yes...I got rid of the damn green connector.
 
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