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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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U can get something like this... A little bigger then a deck of cards
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But u still need to use fuses and relays... Or u can get something like this
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Which is completely digital and will reset from fault with powering on/off the bike... No more fuses

I actually went to te dealership and bought the pins used in the fuse block, and just ran everything into my bikes fuse block... Gives it a nice own look and no birds nest of wires under my seat...
 

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I've used these a couple times in car stuff, no reason it won't work on a bike.
Amazon.com: Painless Wiring 70103 Cirkit Boss Kit 3Circ.: Automotive

Connects to the battery, could easily be mounted in the fairing, gives you 1 full time hot circuit and 2 ignition on hot circuits. Nice quality, makes for some convenient additional circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
U can get something like this... A little bigger then a deck of cards
View attachment 194122
But u still need to use fuses and relays... Or u can get something like this
View attachment 194130
Which is completely digital and will reset from fault with powering on/off the bike... No more fuses

I actually went to te dealership and bought the pins used in the fuse block, and just ran everything into my bikes fuse block... Gives it a nice own look and no birds nest of wires under my seat...
I like the idea of using the bikes fuse box. Any more info or how to on this idea?

Just checked and the main is only a 40A fuse. Guess it would work for most stuff, but my amp is wired with a 50A fuse.
 

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It's not hard, just need to take ur time. It really depends on how comfortable u are digging into the he belly of ur bike... I would also recommend having a table lift or bike jack handy as having the bike on the ground on its stand can be a bit of a pain... Not impossible but a pain in the neck...

I will tell you what i did and how I wired everything, but just the FYI u can assume this type of thing will most likely void any warranty no matter how clean and correct of an install u do...

First I determined how many accessories i wanted to run. For me it was: j&m amp, leds, air horn, air horn relay, heated gear, gps and oil cooler.

Then I needed to see which ones I wanted on with the bike and which would have constant power. For me this was easy as the only thing that isn't on wit the bike is the Leds.

I had to determine where I had room in my panel
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As u can see in the photo I circled where I had space to add.
The first circuit I added was the gps to the P&A ign. It's already wired to the bike just needs the pin to the device (this is where Harley recommends hardwiring a GPS & heated grips) so that was a no brainier.
The hardest part was wiring the relay for my air horn. The horn came with a standard automotive relay. I was able to find via the Internet (i can find it if u want) a micro relay with the same specs. I stuck it right between the bikes system relay and start relay. And of course I also need to add a 20amp fuse for the horn its self so I planned on adding that to the slot just below the headlamps slot.

So u get the idea I just mapped out where I wanted everything...

So I went to the dealer and I bought a few buss bars and a few pins (I'm sure there is a technical name for them by I can remember) they are relatively inexpensive. When I can I will add pics of what they look like..

Now the hard part... I personally didn't want anything on my battery. So I had to find power for the items that I wanted on with the bike.
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As you can see in the picture(my new fuse panel cover) the bottom two rows are bussed with a jumper running from the P&A slot to the new air horn and then jumped again to the amp slot so all of six slots are powered on with the bike. The relay is wired as any relay would. My bikes leds I wanted to be able to turn on and off regardless of the bike so I ran a line from the B+ connector that's near the 4pin Deutsch connector under the seat. It's a funny looking gray connector...

This is how my fuse block looks now, I would also say before connecting any terminals u have to remove those orange locks on the front of the panel. They are a pain to remove but a steady hand and a small flat screw driver will do the trick..

Electronics Machine Technology Electronic device Audio equipment
 

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Here is a pick of the terminal connectors
Vehicle

On the left is what's left of the buss bar they come with five connectors but I only need 3, so I cut them down. On the right is the standard terminal for the fuse block usually used to connect the actual device to the block, or in my case to wire up the relay...

It's a lot of info and I'm sure I missed something. Feel free to pm me any questions...

Almost forgot... As for ur amp... My amp has two 30s in the back of it plus a 25 inline (as provided by the manufacture)... I've been running this set up since the start of the season and have had no issues (knock on wood)

I'd be a bit caution about a 50 amp fuse... I'm not even sure they make those in the small type... If all u have is one item to you battery, that's not a bad for the piece of mind
 
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