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Discussion Starter #1
My bike is developing a wobble, especially noticeable on sweeping corners, the more aggressive, the more aggressive it'll wobble. If I lean the bike at all, and hit a bump, it'll wobble too, just something I've noticed recently. Sometimes I'll notice a faint wobble going down a straight road, but this is rare and could be the road. I've got over 60k on the bike and this has begun over the past 1-2k miles. I'm wondering about the rear swingarm bushings and curious what the signs of wear are? When I took off the caps for the swingarm, the right side had debris, looked more like shavings, and the left had more of what looked like normal grime.

Being I have 60k on the bike, I plan on replacing the bearings on the next tire change.

TIA!
 

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It could be lots of things. The first thing I would look at is the tires. How worn, are they properly balanced and inflated? Then the wheel bearings, check for wear. My experience is 60k about does it for front wheel bearings, I would change them anyway if they have never been done. CBR Bearings is the place to get them as they sell only US or Japanese bearings, no Chinese. Rear wheel bearings last way longer, usually.
Then check your steering head bearings. They are probably OK but jack up the front end and check for any play or roughness.
Shavings under the cap on the R. swingarm bearings? Yep, it needs replacing. I would go ahead and do both sides and would not ride the bike until everything has been fixed.
 
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Check the tires first. Make sure the tire PSI is correct first and then check for tire wear or cupping. In most cases the front tire is the cause of wobble so ride down the road and run up to 55 mph then take your hands off the handlebars and see what happens as you slow down. If the handlebars start to wobble around 40 or 45 mph then it's a good chance the front tire is worn out. Also jack the bike up and spin the wheels forward and backward if you hear a clicking sound when spinning the wheel backwards then the bearings are going bad. While the bike is jacked up disconnect the clutch cable at the clutch lever and bezel and do the swing test, if the front end passes the swing test according to the manual specs then you're good, if not then you need to tighten up the steering head bearing. It's a good idea to grease the steering head bearing before doing the swing test.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
It could be lots of things. The first thing I would look at is the tires. How worn, are they properly balanced and inflated? Then the wheel bearings, check for wear. My experience is 60k about does it for front wheel bearings, I would change them anyway if they have never been done. CBR Bearings is the place to get them as they sell only US or Japanese bearings, no Chinese. Rear wheel bearings last way longer, usually.
Then check your steering head bearings. They are probably OK but jack up the front end and check for any play or roughness.
Shavings under the cap on the R. swingarm bearings? Yep, it needs replacing. I would go ahead and do both sides and would not ride the bike until everything has been fixed.
Tires are about 70% worn, and I have new tires ready to put on. Been running Avon's front and rear with 42/48 for pressure. Using this as a guide. Avon Motorcycle Tyres North America » Tire Pressure Guidelines

I plan on checking my head bearing as well, but this does not feel like a head bearing wobble. I can ride no hands most often, but not all the time. Depends on weight, speed and road. Slower speeds tend to wobble more than higher speed.
 

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Tires-wheel bearings- motor mounts.

If you have the new tires, then mount them and check the wheel bearings at the same time. Badly cleated tires can give the rider a bit of an unstable feel in a sweeping turn. As the cleat edges grab and slip.

After that you would want to look at the motor mounts. There is threads here that shows what to look for. http://www.roadglide.org/26-engine-related/322234-2013-motor-mount-alignment.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's a pic of the right swingarm bushing I mentioned earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The front right. It's clean/ shiny where the wear spot is on the mount
 

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That one is not centered, so it's time to think about some new ones.

Can't say if it's the cause of your issue, vibration seems to be the most common complaint. But if the rear ones are letting the power-train shift left and right, it would cause a wobble under side loading.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What's the trick to remove the pivot shaft? Manual says to remove it through the left side, but I can't get the right side bolt off, only the left side bolt came off. Can I remove it through the right side, or do I need to figure out a way to remove the right side bolt to remove it through the left side?
 

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What's the trick to remove the pivot shaft? Manual says to remove it through the left side, but I can't get the right side bolt off, only the left side bolt came off. Can I remove it through the right side, or do I need to figure out a way to remove the right side bolt to remove it through the left side?
You can pull it out the right side. If the pipe is in the way, you'll have to move it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It could be lots of things. The first thing I would look at is the tires. How worn, are they properly balanced and inflated? Then the wheel bearings, check for wear. My experience is 60k about does it for front wheel bearings, I would change them anyway if they have never been done. CBR Bearings is the place to get them as they sell only US or Japanese bearings, no Chinese. Rear wheel bearings last way longer, usually.
Then check your steering head bearings. They are probably OK but jack up the front end and check for any play or roughness.
Shavings under the cap on the R. swingarm bearings? Yep, it needs replacing. I would go ahead and do both sides and would not ride the bike until everything has been fixed.
Do you have any part numbers for the CBR bearings that will work for ABS?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can pull it out the right side. If the pipe is in the way, you'll have to move it.
Are you sure you can you pull it out the right side on an 11? I don't think I can, I can't get the outter nut off, and from the way the left side looks, the spacer is tapered towards the end to hold the shaft in place. I can slide shaft back and forth a half inch or so, so it shouldn't be seized. I'll only move so far then it gets solid.
 

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Had the same problem. Turned out to be a failed rear wheel bearing. Barely a year old.
 

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Call them, very helpful. Really know their stuff, and nice folks. 1-800-769-5388
 

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Are you sure you can you pull it out the right side on an 11? I don't think I can, I can't get the outter nut off, and from the way the left side looks, the spacer is tapered towards the end to hold the shaft in place. I can slide shaft back and forth a half inch or so, so it shouldn't be seized. I'll only move so far then it gets solid.
Well I just pulled a new shaft out of the packing, and I stand corrected. You can not pull it out the right side. It will have to come out the left side. The step in the middle of the shaft won't go through the mount. Double nut on the left would be choice one for breaking the right loose. Followed by vice grips on the shaft behind the threads. But I have no idea as to what that shaft is made of and what the effects of cleaning up the vice grip bite marks will be.

You using an impact gun? Or turning it by hand?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I just pulled a new shaft out of the packing, and I stand corrected. You can not pull it out the right side. It will have to come out the left side. The step in the middle of the shaft won't go through the mount. Double nut on the left would be choice one for breaking the right loose. Followed by vice grips on the shaft behind the threads. But I have no idea as to what that shaft is made of and what the effects of cleaning up the vice grip bite marks will be.

You using an impact gun? Or turning it by hand?
I'll have to try the double nut. I did throw a vice grips on it and the shaft is fairly soft. Gonna try a small pipe wrench, I may be able to get more grip with that... The shaft is less than 30 new from harley, so I'm not to concerned if I need to replace it. More concerned if I chew it up to bad and still unable to get it out...

I've been using a newer milwaukee hammer drill.
 

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I'll have to try the double nut. I did throw a vice grips on it and the shaft is fairly soft. Gonna try a small pipe wrench, I may be able to get more grip with that... The shaft is less than 30 new from harley, so I'm not to concerned if I need to replace it. More concerned if I chew it up to bad and still unable to get it out...

I've been using a newer milwaukee hammer drill.
The directions from Glide Pro suggest an impact gun, which would tend to keep the twist at the nut as opposed to traveling through the shaft.

I an FXR guy and with them you can do it from either side. Actually the main issue with them is the shaft being frozen in the trans bore. Some are so bad they have to be sawed off and the trans pulled to press them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thought I would post what to do if others run into this problem.

Basically, go to the hardware store and get a bolt and nut that'll fit the shaft and double nut the shaft on the left side. Cost's less than a buck and a piece of cake to do.
 
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