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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well after reading 100's of posts on how much of a pain on the rear the internal wiring job was on the Yaffe monkey bars I must say after I spent 2 hours on one side the other side took me 10 minutes if that :)

I initially tried to feed the whole factory wiring with sleeve and all using the Yaffe instructions method and that was not working so I broke down and cut the factory black sleeving off leaving around 4" on near the controls. Next I was able to slide a piece of welding rod through one end and out the other. I then used weed wacker string I had lying around and connected 4 wires at a time with electrical tape to the string and pulled them through the bars. Getting them to pass through the first bend was pretty easy the second bend at the bottom of the bars is where the problems arise. After struggling for 10 minutes I remembered there was a hole at the bottom of the bars right at the 2nd bend. Using a flashlight I could easily see the taped up bundle of wires and using a 90 degree pick was able to aid the wire bundle easily around the 2nd bend. With each bundle of 4 wires be sure to tie in another piece of string to run the next batch of cables. I then slid the factory black sleeeving all the way into the bars to give the wires some protection. If I used this method from the start I could have had both sides wired up in around 30 minutes if I had to do it again.

My 10" bars installed without any extensions or cable replacements. I did have to undo the front brake line bolt at the head and bend the steel brake line to make it long enough. I also cut the factory slot wider on the right intrument cluster panel so the brake cable sat directly behind the bar with a pair of sheet metal snips. I then re-routed the clutch cable to the other side of the crash bar and installed a loop from Lowes on the upper left instrument cluster panel torx bolt (bolt on the top of the fork). Without the loop the cable would hit the upper bolt on a full right turn then would get stuck on the bolt when returning to center. This $1 Loop for Lowes solved the issue for me.

The bars came from Harley Parts Direct for $325 delivered. The bars I received where not perfect. They had a few nicks in the chrome and I almost sent them back.

 

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looks great- nice work. I am looking at the same set up. Would you recommend ordering OEM bars through Harley Direct or go with someone else? I don't want to have to deal with damaged goods.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
looks great- nice work. I am looking at the same set up. Would you recommend ordering OEM bars through Harley Direct or go with someone else? I don't want to have to deal with damaged goods.
The bars where brand new from Harley Direct with sticky bubble wrap wrapped over the the corners. There was no box damage so it appears thats the way they where shipped directly from the MFG.
 

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looks great!!! good job and great hint
 

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Just installed the 12" monkey bars myself a few weeks ago using a similar method. I removed all of the wiring sleeve less a few inches near the controls and used mechanics wire to feed the wires to the bottom hole four at a time. Then ran another wire and connected from the middle to the end set. And another tip i used palmolive dish soap and i had no problem with the wires binding up at all. After reading all the horror stories and outrageous labor charges i almost didnt buy these bars. But glad i stuck with my gut feeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My buddy that used regular heavy duty string to install bars on a weekly bassis used the week whacker line last set of bars he did and was amazed at how much easier it made it :)
 

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I just did this job over the weekend. One side when right through. The right side was a pain. I used a thin piece of aircraft cable wrapped around the bundle of wires. I had to use that bottom hole to push and pull the wires.

I really wonder why Yaffe doesn't weld in a small piece of conduit around the corner areas. That probably wouldn't be all the hard for them to do and would make it more like pulling wires through regular bars.

Anyway, there are lots of methods which work. One issue I did have before I figured out how to pull the wires was once the wires had lube on them from prior attempts at pulling them, they were really hard to setup for another try as none of the tape would stick.

The bright side is that it done. I still have to check the wires to make sure I didn't mess something up.
 

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I did the buky odeyseey a few weeks ago and your up against the same thing 2 90 degree corners,it aint that bad ut not easy,i took string and spiral wrapped about 8 inches up the wire end and then used elec tape covering it,then ky lube,if you pull without stopping its not to bad,the fbw was cut out and wired direct which really helped
 

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bars

bars look great ... i going to try and put some on before the winter is over.
need to find how high i can go without having to extend any of the cables.. oem or 12 ... and does it change the agle of the bars from the stock bars.?
 

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Since our bikes are nearly the same year, ARE.. the same color, and we run the same grips, this gives me a good idea on a riders perspective... Of these bars..
and install methods..
They Look Great!

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I put 12 inch buky odessey on and the brake line and wires fit fine but the clutch will fit if routed differently but even then its way to tight,i went +4 wanted +2 but thought if I got it and it was to short id have to start over,hope that helps
 

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Hard work pay off. Looks good.
Spray little WD-40 in order to slide the stock rubber shield with the cables not to bad. Sure those sharp bend make it more difficult.
 

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10 inch bar is the correct fit for stock wires cables lines. I would not buy these again. Too many better bars that are large which still use std clamps and much easier to wire. Over priced and a PIA .
 

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I Agree with 124shark

After installing mine (Not Yaffe but Very similar 10.5" design)
I'd Never get that style again. TOTAL PITA to wire, and mine is an '03
 

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used this method this evening on my 10" yaffes. Working really well so far. The left side was a breeze, just got the TBW stuff through and now onto the right side controls. It seems like the more electrical tape used, the harder it is. It gets sticky and hung up on the edges. Was able to do it the 4 wire at a time method without any damage to the wires, just slowly pushing and pulling and using a pick with a hook on the bottom hole to help guide the wires over the sharp edge.
 

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Before you try to pull any wires, get about 5' of unsheathed aircraft cable, 5/16" is what I used, fish that through the bars and work it back and forth on each side. This will smooth the sharp edges inside. Leave the factory plastic conduit on as this will protect the insulation on the wires from being cut and creating further issues down the road. Get some electricians lube and use it liberally, tape up ends where molex connectors are exposed then tie with trimmer line and feed them in.. The wires will slide right through. It took me 15 minutes to do both sides. Oh also, so as to not have issues with your throttle by wire, eliminate the green connector and solder wires. Hope this info also helps
 
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