Welcome to the forum. The Road Glide pricing has risen beyond my threshold, especially when you you consider how much you will be into it after adding everything needed to fix its shortcomings and set it up for touring.

 

Here dealers won't list a price. They want you in the hot seat . Dealers are hurting.

 

Out the door is tough. Tax varies from State to State even city to city sometimes. Maybe just the total cost for the bike before tax and license would be a better comparison.

 

Do you want the absolute CHEAPEST OTD Price or do you want a "Fare" price where the dealer is happy, you're happy and you also negotiate discounts on P&A (C'mon, you know you're gonna drop dough on SOMETHING) and if you have dealer work done, get the 1K service added to the OTD? Many, MANY ways to negotiate...

Also, if you are paying cash, tell them you'll Finc at whatever rate and term they stick you in and make your 3 payments then pay it off.....because if a Dealer can Finance over 66% of the bikes they sell...the Moco ups their buy discount.....you'll make the dealer happy and then ask them to make you happy - Its all a game and throw in a "Walk Away" and you'll get closer to what you want

Just my .02

 

While the cheapest is obviously the best, I’m not going to sweat $500-1000. When I bought my 2022 it took 4 dealerships and a few weeks but I managed $6-7k lower by looking around

 

Different way to look at it.

I generally already know it is time to purchase something. Like my Tractor. I had been looking into it had 3 brands . But it looked like an impulse thing when I came home with it.

I want any dealer,bike, car, tractor to stand by the product warranty. I will to pay some for a good dealer relationship.
Know what you are willing to pay OTD taxes and fees pretty easy to figure out. Have a number that says you are not buying . Example if dealer is adding something to bring the price up and it is not what you want to spend . Walk.

Time and time again I see people walk in and come out spending 5-10 K over what they expected and realize a week latter they spent to much.

Take your time doing you home work. There will always be another bike.

Good luck.

 

MSRP on the bike you're looking at is $30,199. Sounds like the dealer you went to isn't budging on price at all depending on how taxes hit you. Keep shopping around. Don't be afraid to go a couple hours away or even out of state for the price you're looking for. Riding season is just starting in the northern half of the USA and these colors are only two months old so I'd say it's a safe bet not too many are dealing on them just yet. You can always see what kind of a price they have on a leftover '24 and see if they'll do a tin swap also.

 

My out the door price on a 24 with tallboy seat, detachable hardware, tab slip ons, 1k service and a lifetime power train warranty, tax and registration was 28,646. My coworker's 24 (same bike different color) from the exact same dealer with only the 1k service, lifetime power train warranty, tax and registration was right at 30k give or take a few bucks. I even got a $100 gift card for referring him to the dealer lol. My point is, OTD pricing will be different for everybody. Negotiating skills are key

 

Enlighten us on your tactics. You're obviously a good negotiator so I would love to understand your process and how it came to that number because I suck at negotiating. Thanks.

 

I try my best never to go to the dealer when buying. I send them an email with a detailed description of what I want and ask for an OTD price. If they respond without a price, then they lose out on a sale. There is no need to waste your time dealing with salesmen, sales managers and who ever else they want to throw at you.

 

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When It is time for me to trade or buy, I'll spend about a week talking to different people, dealerships, websites, etc just trying to get a feel for what the best current price is for what I am looking for.
Then I will put together an email with exactly what I'm looking for in a new bike. I will include current pics of my bike with a detailed list of upgrades and work done to it. That email will include something along the lines of "I am looking for X in black/red with X added and no more than X miles. Please see my possible trade attached. Am willing to pay X out the door, financing and trade in will depend on your offer"
I will then send that email to around 10 dealerships within 100 miles of me and wait for the replies to start. They generally start rolling in within a few minutes.
When someone calls and leaves me a message that they have exactly what I'm looking for in my price range then I'll call them back and feel them out to see if they are full of shit or legit.
I'm not going to waste my time in a dealership talking to some dipshit salesman who thinks the best way to deal with me is treat me like I'm buying a timeshare.
To get the best possible deal you have to be willing to travel some and you have to be a little flexible.
The best deal will not have you and the dealer happy....just the opposite..Like the old saying goes "A good negotiation is one where both parties walk away equally unhappy"

 

i do a combo. when i'm ready to buy a new 'thing' (bike, car, truck, etc), i don't want to play silly buggers and do it over a week or two. i want it now. but, i'm also not willing to pay extra for that privilege. i do all my research ahead of time and calculate what i'm willing to pay. of course, if i can get it for less than that, i'm not gonna turn away 'free' money, lol.

i also push for things like services, (i've gotten as many as 2. but usually the first), parts discount, esp, etc.

could i possibly get it for less? sure, but as i said, i'll give up a buck or two in order to not have to work for it over a week or two.

 

Never, ever be afraid to get up and walk out. There is no need to be rude about it, just say "thanks, but no thanks", shake hands and head to the door. On the last car I bought, the dealer refused to remove a fee they put in the contract (VIN etching). I told the salesman, if he didn't remove it, I was walking. He said "you'd walk out over $229?"......I said "you'd let me walk out over $229?" and I left. About a half hour later, I get a call and the fee is magically waived, would I come back and buy the car? I said sure, but knock another $500 off for wasting my time and gas. They did.

 

find a deal on a left over 24

 

Fort Bragg in Fayetteville has quite a few 24’s on the floor, not sure where you’ve looked. Just an FYI. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

I’ve looked at Shallotte, Wilmington, Winterville, Jacksonville. I’d really like the 25 to get the brilliant red, and apparently people are finding deals under $30k OTD

 

Here's a very nice slightly used one just in case you are open to it.

2024 Harley-Davidson® FLTRX - Road Glide® | Lucky U Cycles

Lucky U Cycles sells Powersports vehicles in Wildwood, FL. Offering service, and financing, near Ocala, Daytona, Orlando, Jacksonville, Tampa

www.luckyucycles.com

 

In my 58 years I’ve never purchased a car, truck, or motorcycle brand new….. except dirt bikes, but that’s a different story……. We just purchased a ‘24 Cadillac XT5 for my wife which was a demo with 4,500 miles, for a little over half the price of a brand new ‘25 of the same model…….🤷🏼‍♂️

Where im at now on the Harley thing is waiting a couple years to let the gremlins finish working themselves out and for the new design pricing to settle down, then I’ll pick up a 1-2 year old ‘25 or ‘26 model with 8,000 miles like we get on here for sale all the time, for a third of the new bike price…….

 

Where im at now on the Harley thing is waiting a couple years to let the gremlins finish working themselves out and for the new design pricing to settle down, then I’ll pick up a 1-2 year old ‘25 or ‘26 model with 8,000 miles like we get on here for sale all the time, for a third of the new bike price…….

I'm salivating over a '22 Pan American that has all the panniers and 5k miles for $12k in Princeton TX. Damn thing looks brand new. I don't NEED it but I sure WANT it.

 

Billiard Gray is the no mark up color now.

 

I've done both methods and frankly, my time is valuable so I don't want to waste hours at a dealership getting tag-teamed by a salesman & a sales manager. I used to enjoy going to the dealer and fucking around with the salesman because I could. Life is too short to waste on some dude trying to pry every penny out of your wallet.

 

My time is valuable as well but if I want something like bike or any vehicle it becomes a game for me. I'll try like hell to keep as much of my money as I possibly can so I'll have no problem playing the game with them.

 

Ok... sorry to interject here but...

What's the thoughts on this deal... A used 2024 Road Glide Atlas Silver on black 1135 miles sticker 18778. 22k OTD.

The vin is for the white, but the dealer said they did a tin swap which does not make a ton of sense because I thought the Atlas Silver only came in black trim. Am I wrong? They showed me records and such so I know it is clean. Anyway, this deal seams to good to be true. Thoughts?

 

Ok... sorry to interject here but...

What's the thoughts on this deal... A used 2024 Road Glide Atlas Silver on black 1135 miles sticker 18778. 22k OTD.

The vin is for the white, but the dealer said they did a tin swap which does not make a ton of sense because I thought the Atlas Silver only came in black trim. Am I wrong? They showed me records and such so I know it is clean. Anyway, this deal seams to good to be true. Thoughts?

Dealers have done tin swaps before. No big deal. I'd like that price if that's the bike you're looking for.

 

I men i love the new bikes but I have a paid for 2022 RGS that I love. I would not trade it as they would low ball the crap out of me and the wife hates the idea a new bike... IDK prolly should stay away from that new bike and worry about that down the line.

 

I understand that. I’m almost done paying for my 22 as well.

 

Be careful talking to dealers by phone and email when you are shopping. I had a dealer the next state over I was working a deal with for my 2019 and they were giving me a really good deal for a bike they claimed was in their inventory. So, I jumped in the car and went there and guess what? They never even had the bike nor did they have any intentions of trying to get one.

 

As many have said is correct. Background for me is 39 years with a major car company (corporate).

I would say walk into a dealer, no phone/email business. Don't give in to a particular color for one, you can work that out later. They will play to your heart strings... let them know you know about the bike, what the MSRP is, and your looking but serious. If they offer you a price that is out of line in your opinion. Say thanks for your time, and walk out. Does not hurt to say I'll think about it but want to see what other dealers may offer (make sure the other dealers are not the same owner). Go back in a week or so later, talk to the same sales guy as this sets a relationship. Be honest, and if they don't come down to a reasonable offer, ask what else comes with it, what if you got the maintenance plan or tire package... if still nothing, offer to see an offer but if not good for you, walk.

Out the door "OTD" is what you should be shooting for... dealers can move the costs around to "hide" them or make it seem like they removed, reduced or worked with you, but the key is what it costs in total or OTD. If you don't like the way the dealer is selling the bike, walk out and go to another dealer. Ultimately a dealer in good faith with show or provide the OTD, anything different, you can and perhaps should walk, but a good dealer will work with you to get there. Not to mention the relationship for service, parts, questions, or just hang abouts. I have a great relationship with my dealer so happy life (not so much in the Indian Motorcycle dealers for me anyway)...

Remember and I am sure it is not your first bike purchase:

• Get to the OTD price
• Don't discuss any trade until the end of the deal or look to sell other bike on the personal market, you'll get more out of it, but it will take longer.
• Don't fall for the how much do you want to pay per month, don't even discuss what you can afford. Get the OTD price.
• Come in with a finance plan already from you bank, CU etc. if needed. If you are going to finance, do not discuss what you want as a monthly payment. Sales will just extend the period of the loan to get you there but this is where the interest plays a role. If you can get a lower rate, tell them and see if they will match it regardless of the loan period.
• Do not say your paying cash until the OTD price, stating your paying cash when walking in may remove what the dealer may try to negotiate in maintenance or service plans. Dealer like loans and off brand maintenance plans that they earn a commision on and likely have room to move pricing to look like a good deal.

 

Great points made…!!

 

I spoke to someone at Daytona Harley recently for an OTD price on a left over 24. Didn’t need financing, just the final price out the door.
they gave me a price of 40k for a whisky fire red with chrome… nothing special.
umm…ok, bye.

 

I spoke to someone at Daytona Harley recently for an OTD price on a left over 24. Didn’t need financing, just the final price out the door.
they gave me a price of 40k for a whisky fire red with chrome… nothing special.
umm…ok, bye.

Next time don’t tell them you’re a cash buyer and let them think you’re like the other 98% and will be financing. They don’t like cash because the dealer is incentivized by The MoCo to use their financing….

 

I have done a LOT of was was written above, but I think my best move, where HD is concerned (tell you why in a sec), is to walk in with a crazy ask, not a stupid ask... but something that will make them take notice.

Tell them to work the numbers and when they come back, it will be dumb, like the negotiations even started... say No Thanks and say you are going to go look at the clothes and then head out.

I have done this twice, and they WILL come back to you with a way better deal. I then said something like, wow, thats much better but not close enough to what I was thinking, and hang out a little bit longer. They'll be back LOL.

Other things car/trucks/Honda Goldwings (LOL) are commodities. HD prides itself, and FUCK they are good, at selling "dreams". so for you to say No to them... sends them working. Its usually the 2nd rejection that gets them.

OH, and I always toss out a statement, Wow, thats a lot for a "toy". It doesn't sound like a big thing, but the human you said it too has emotions and wants to get paid and make their sales numbers... THAT one statement will send up flags... especially if they have already pulled your credit and they know you mean business.

Good Luck!

 

I have done a LOT of was was written above, but I think my best move, where HD is concerned (tell you why in a sec), is to walk in with a crazy ask, not a stupid ask... but something that will make them take notice.

Tell them to work the numbers and when they come back, it will be dumb, like the negotiations even started... say No Thanks and say you are going to go look at the clothes and then head out.

I have done this twice, and they WILL come back to you with a way better deal. I then said something like, wow, thats much better but not close enough to what I was thinking, and hang out a little bit longer. They'll be back LOL.

Other things car/trucks/Honda Goldwings (LOL) are commodities. HD prides itself, and FUCK they are good, at selling "dreams". so for you to say No to them... sends them working. Its usually the 2nd rejection that gets them.

OH, and I always toss out a statement, Wow, thats a lot for a "toy". It doesn't sound like a big thing, but the human you said it too has emotions and wants to get paid and make their sales numbers... THAT one statement will send up flags... especially if they have already pulled your credit and they know you mean business.

Good Luck!

or, you remind them that the only person with a need in the relationship is them. they need to sell to make a living. I don't necessarily need to buy a bike.

When I was looking for my ST, I walked out of my local dealer for a number of reasons, the biggest one being that were were way off on the numbers. He called me the next day with the how do we get this done line. Simple, like I said, this is where we need to be to get it done. We hung up with him saying he would work on it. The following weekend there was a voice mail from him so I called him back and he's all like "how can I help you?" dude, you called me. So appearantly the work out into trying to make the deal happen wasnt a high priority. He then proceededto tell me I wouldn't find the deal I was looking for on what I was looking for.

Oddly enough, as I was driving home from the East Coast after buying the bike, he called me again and I had the pleasure of telling him that I just bought what I was looking for.

 

Reanimating old thread - my '25 turned out to be less out the door than my '24; only "downside" is that dealer is 120 miles away Called couple shippers (don't want to do brake in miles on interstate, where "slow lane" is doing 70+ lol) but after looking at their prices decided that my son would drop me off and I plot a route to avoid major highways, only one hour longer ride.

 

but what did you pay

 

Here in California it's depending on where you live. So I always negotiate the SALE price because I know already what tax, tile, license, admin fees, and possibly setup. California has a nice DMV fee calculator and I show them that when they ask, "WherE DId YOu GEt tHAt nuMbER???"

Setup fees are added to the sale price and II usually tell them to remove the extra cost if they dont want to budge 1000 or 800 it's their loss. Especially when you are dealing with such a big purchase. If I pay MSRP OTD that is about 3000 off. Taxes for me is about 7.25% that's 2030 in taxes in itself for 28k plus add 430 in registration, 85 doc fee, 10 tire fee, 33 dmv electronic fee. About 2600 with taxes in fees if the sale price is 28k. That's 30600 OTD.

So they would have to knock off about 3000 to get to where I would pay 28k OTD. The dreaded part is facing with the finance guy to close the deal. That's where you can decide to leave since nothing has been signed.

Ive also learned that you can use your CC to pay whatever max limit the dealer would allow if they allow it as down payment. I dont mind paying the 3% fee as it will be included into my points/rewards. It's the cost of doing business

Also extras like extended warranties, tire and wheel, prepaid service SHOULD be paid separately and never financed. Use a credit card if you have the money to pay that off within the next billing statement. Never finance extras. Those should be kept as separate transactions.

If HD has good financing go with that if not go with your bank. But get that done first before stepping into the dealer.

But always refuse for them to take your credit inquiry if you already have a bank check. And tell them that you already applied for financing through their website. They should have your name on file. But personally I would rather finance with my bank. Even if their financing is good or better they will always try to tire you out.

If you are serious about buying a bike bring the money. If you want to kick tires and test ride, that's fine, but keep in mind, after the test ride they will want you to buy the bike. They will always say, "What is keeping you from buying the bike today?" I tell them "well, I came here specifically for a test ride and you told me that there is no obligation to buy."

I always question why do you need to take my credit info if I already have a bank check right here. Wave it at their face because I believe that they dont beleive you have cash in hand and they always want to finance. If for some reason they want to argue, then walk. All they need is your drivers license information for tax and registration purposes.

Buying experience is always different from dealer to dealer. I like to be as hands off as possible when making the transaction. I usually call and find a sales guy, go to the dealer and find said sales guy, do a test ride, think about it. If I want to buy, I call the sales guy to setup a time to buy which is usually during the week since the Fridays and the weekend is the worse day to buy a bike. Schedule at least 4 hours to make the purchase. Buy discounted parts, and then leave.