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3rd Gen 2025 RG Battery problems and possible solutions!?!?!?

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4.8K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  kthomas325is  
#1 ·
I wanted to start a new thread on this, since the title of the other one was specific to the usbc cord....

I was worried that the usbc cord was hot all the time, and that my blue tooth device for carplay that was plugged into it, drained the battery. I got a LOT of great info from people on here! Thank you guys for the input.

I bought my 2025 Road Glide on March 4th. When I would start it, it sounded as though the battery was kind of low. Started right up, but the 2 or 3 cranks that it took, sounded like it was laboring. I got the bike trailered back home from Bike Week, where I bought it, and it started the same way. I drove it about 20 minutes the Monday after, and again about 10 miles each way to a friend's the next day. Weather got cold again, and the bike sat for 20 straight days. Gorgeous Sunday, super excited, I head out to garage to install slip-ons. BATTERY WAS DEAD AS A DOOR NAIL! I tried to jump it with a jump pack to no avail. I got on here for some insight that night.

These bikes draw a TON of energy when sitting. I get it. No doubt about it. But there is no way this thing should be dead after 3 weeks with a brand new battery. I took the battery to the local dealer and had it tested. It tested good, and they put what they call a "deep charge" on it, with the bazillion dollar testing machine. I get the battery home, put it in the bike and everything works as it should.

NOW.... Why did the battery take a shit so fast, and how to remedy it? I spoke at length with the GM of the dealership. He made a very good point about new bikes with "new" batteries. The new bikes get batteries at factory. Batteries may have sat a while before install. Then they get put in the bike and the bike gets shipped off to dealer. Bike sits on dealer floor and typically gets the ignition flipped on and off a million times by everyone that sits on the bike. MAYBE the dealer puts a tender on it, maybe they don't. GM suggests this is what happened with my bike and that it was turning over slow when I first got it, because it was low and then sitting for 3 weeks was the final nail in the coffin.

That said, how do I deal with it moving forward? Obvious answer is a Battery Tender (no shit). The issue I have, is that the garage I store it in is not mine. There is no electric in it and I do not think the owner would be keen on me putting a solar panel on it and running wires etc. TONS of people must run into this due to storing bikes in SHEDS with no electric and have solutions, right? Maybe. But I am having a hell of a time.... It took me a LONG time, but I found a product (link below) that can charge the bike battery from a truck/car battery. The only issue is that the charge will be 2A, and these Skyline equipped bikes should have 5A. 2A has to be better than 0A though, right? I could then easily carry the truck battery by the handle into my place right nextdoor and put it on a charger while I am at work all day -maybe once a month or every few weeks as needed. I also found a battery cutoff switch (link below) that looks like it would work to help. I would like to try the cutoff switch first, but I am not sure where I would mount it. I am also not super excited about monkeying around in the battery box etc on a brand new bike. For the time being, I will try to RIDE IT REGULARLY to keep it charged. This will be an ongoing thing. I know there are other threads about this, but I hope this one helps as well.

Let me know what you guys think of these possible solutions. Sorry for the long read!



 
#3 ·
You don’t at least have a light fixture in the garage where you could screw in one of these adapter deals to get an AC plug…..?
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Hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but being a Mod on this site over the last couple years since these new bikes came out, the only solution I have seen is for the bike to live on a 4 or preferably 5 amp battery maintainer when not being ridden. It’s even what the MoCo recommends as the solution…....🤷🏼‍♂️
 
#4 · (Edited)
Was it in transport mode when trailer-ed? If it was dead plug it in for a few days and see. If it hold charge you ok. If it does not battery is Done.
Rushmore and up the the tender plug is protected by the 20 PA fuse in fuse box.

I have friends 2013 plugged with a 5 amp tender now.

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#18 ·
Was it in transport mode when trailer-ed? If it was dead plug it in for a few days and see. If it hold charge you ok. If it does not battery is Done.
Rushmore and up the the tender plug is protected by the 20 PA fuse in fuse box.

I have friends 2013 plugged with a 5 amp tender now.

View attachment 496674
I just went and ordered one of these today, because my H-D 5A charger pooped the bed this weekend, no idea why, but it now constantly indicates an overvolt condition even though the settings are correct/haven't changed. Tried it with other batteries as well and same thing. My old 1A tender still works fine so at least I can use that until the new one arrives.
 
#9 ·
I would find a safe, reasonable way to get electric installed in the garage unless it's out in the middle of the woods somewhere and prohibitively expensive. If I had a garage with no power and the person that was using it offered to put power in there, I'd be very grateful. Either that, or as ksol5 recommended, find a place to store your bike that already has an outlet for a Tender. Good luck...
 
#11 ·
To even have a chance a dead battery (no matter how it died) needs to be on a real "manual" battery charger (not a tender) to bring it back to it's "full potential".

Once it's back to full potential an automatic Battery Tender can keep it at full potential. All you're gonna' do is heat/burn up a small tender trying to charge a dead battery.

L2
 
#12 ·
The bike was in trailer mode for transport. I’m going to see how things go but I may have to consider looking for another garage with electric, or trying solar. I live in Southern NJ and the weather here is supposed to be shit for another week. Got the feeling I’m going to find myself in this same predicament. I will keep you guys posted.
 
#15 ·
It’s privately owned garage. I own a commercial property in a small town. My business is downstairs and my apartment is above it. There is a huge old house nextdoor with 6 apartments in it now. They have a detached 6 bay cinder block garage behind it that are all individual bays. A previous tenant ran an extension cord to his garage from his apartment. She threw him out and told me I could now have that garage for my bikes, if I would rip all the wiring down etc and clean it out. So now I gotta figure out how to bring it up without sounding ungrateful or like a pain in the ass. OR I have to find another garage somewhere in town that I can get access to that HAS electricity. Sucks because this garage is spotless and it is DIRECTLY nextdoor to me.
 
#16 ·
Ahhhh, makes sense….. If you don’t have plans to go anywhere, and it doesn’t sound like you do, perhaps tell her you’ll bury the line if she’ll let you do it, and maybe throw $50 or $100 her way every month…? Sounds like the optimum setup having it next door, so hopefully you can figure out a way to make it work…. Good luck.
 
#23 ·
I went out to ride this am, and click click. Pulled out the tender and stuck it on the 25 RG. Been two weeks tops since the last ride.

I bought the 25 RG in Maine and rode it back to Houston (long story). Now, understand what the dealer SM meant when he said, "These new RGs can't stray far from a battery tender." Since I bought it in Maine, I just assumed it was a cold-weather thing. But I live in Houston. It's hot as HADES, so I know it's not a cold-weather thing.

My 20 RGL can go months without a tender connected and fire right up.

What in the heck is consuming all the power? This is simply ridiculous.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I went out to ride this am, and click click. Pulled out the tender and stuck it on the 25 RG. Been two weeks tops since the last ride.

I bought the 25 RG in Maine and rode it back to Houston (long story). Now, understand what the dealer SM meant when he said, "These new RGs can't stray far from a battery tender." Since I bought it in Maine, I just assumed it was a cold-weather thing. But I live in Houston. It's hot as HADES, so I know it's not a cold-weather thing.

My 20 RGL can go months without a tender connected and fire right up.

What in the heck is consuming all the power? This is simply ridiculous.
The new bikes have a lot more that is active when the bikes are off from what I have heard. Hell, Who knows how much that new infotainment pulls when the bike is off.

For socks and goggles pull the maim fuel and let it set for a few days checking the battery voltage every now and then from your tender pigtail. Bet it stays rock solid.

One thing to consider also is not all tenders are created equal. Deltran tenders are good but even they can brute forces today's junky batteries a little to hard. Optimate tenders tend to be a little more gentle and even take ambient temp into account when administering voltage.
 
#26 ·
I need to pop the main fuse and check parasitic current draw across the two sockets. If it’s more than single digit mA draw, Harley has some done something dumb. The clock, and memory definitely need a small amount of current. If excessive and NOT due to a fault or accessory, my guess is there’s some sloppy “WAKE-UP” code or timers in the embedded code within the BCM on 24 and up. Question is, can it be updated, or is it something we all need to live with. A really good tender is a really good thing to have right now if you have a 24+ RG.