Good report - any riding time since installing to comment on?

 

I had taken it out for a quick 5 mile test ride after the install. I going to get out today for about a 50 mile ride (weather permitting).

 

I can't speak for the OP but we've installed a number of these at work this week already and everyone has been very happy and impressed. Like the OP said, it does feel more like a Twin Cam clutch now. I will say that the AIM unit looks killer and when I put one on my own bike, I'm not sure that I will even put the thin, stamped cover back over it. May just paint the trans end cover and leave showing.

 

Thanks guys for the updates

 

I just got back from a 100+ mile ride mostly back roads & stop signs and my left hand feels great. Simply put, clutch pull is no longer an issue with the AIMS Light Force.

 

Awesome - the clutch on my 17 kills my left hand when I’m in traffic.

Thanks for the review and updates!!!

 

Does the AIM have the white print logo/brand name written on the outside like on the website picture? Does it look bad?

Any chance you can post some pictures of one installed?

 

Yes it does have the white print & logo. Can't post pics because I already have it installed. But you do realize that the cover goes back on after installation?

 

Let me start by saying that I typically don't start/create review & tips threads, but being that there is a lot of chatter surrounding the AIMS Light Force I opted to start one.



First AIMS seems to be understating the 40% decrease, its surely feels like well over 60% decrease and the friction zone feels like it does on the Twin Cams. I initially thought that the line was "air-bound" and re-bled it twice because the clutch pull felt so much less than OEM. Unlike HDFBagR (another thread) my AIMS hydraulic line connection did not look like his, so I proceeded with install.



Second, I am a lazy f*&^er and just decided to loosen exhaust rather than completely remove it. I loosen heat-shields to get to manifold nuts, right muffler mount, mounting nut that hold header to the frame and cross-over pipe mount. I left the right floorboard alone, though I probably should have removed it. Once everything was loose, I took off the slave cylinder cover and had to jiggle it out from between the engine and header. I removed the hydraulic line from the OEM cylinder then removed the 3 allens holding it in place. Once removed I noticed a SUBSTANTIAL amount of oil (not brake fluid) behind the cylinder! Sorry no pics.



I then placed a coating of oil around the rubber seal on the AIMS and bolted it in place, along with connecting the hydraulic line. Please be very careful as the instructions state, I can easily see how cross-threading could occur. I proceed to bleed the line, probably took about 6 minutes. I then started the bike in neutral (yes with the headers still loose), pulled in the clutch and put it in gear. The bike start to slowly move forward and I continued bleeding. Tried it again and all was cool. Just like in the other thread my hydraulic line did note pass directly through the notched portion, but I was still able to get the cover back on.



All together about a 2 hour install with a brief test ride. Would I recommend it? Yes if you have hand issues like myself.

Because I’m not very mechanically savvy, I was wondering if you could explain what this does, mechanically, to lighten the clutch pull? What exactly is it doing?


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It works off the same principle as the OEM (Stock) slave cylinder, but the AIMS has a larger piston with more surface area.

 

But you do realize that the cover goes back on after installation?[/QUOTE]. Thanks, I was just going to ask if the original cover went over the AIMS.:smile:

 

But you do realize that the cover goes back on after installation?

. Thanks, I was just going to ask if the original cover went over the AIMS.:smile:[/QUOTE]

It is a shame to cover it up. The AIMS is a made with billet aluminum and a nice black finish.

 

Contacted AIMS and the (your) unit will not fit my 09 CVO. They do have a VP IV Series which fits directly onto the clutch and will produce a similar results. AIMS have a video on You tube and they said its a 10 to 20 minute install only removing the primary derby cover and removing the OME pressure plate and installing their plate and shim.

 

I've used the AIMS VP on other bikes and it will help, though it's more noticeable at higher RPMs due to the weights spinning faster and assisting in the spring compression.

 

Someone had asked for a pic. This is what the AIM unit looks like.

 

I just had it installed today… Have ridden about 50 miles so far… I can’t believe I even questioned whether to put this on… The one thing holding me back from fully enjoying the new ride, has now been solved.

The Harley dealership was so impressed with it, they plan on ordering a bunch to keep in stock and recommending to their customers


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Yes the difference is "night & day". Was probably the best $250+ I've ever spent on any of my bikes!

 

I should have posted sooner on this product since I had the AIM system installed over a month ago.
Short (or long) story; I got the recall notice from Harley regarding the hydraulic clutch seal. I had just purchased a 2018 RG Special (love it!). Anyway, the "fix" that Harley has is to just replace the seal. I was actually going to just head down to my local dealer and have the work done. But, I was surprised at day one (when I bought the scooter) at how "stiff" the clutch felt compared to my 2011. Wrote it off to the nature of the beast (hydraulic clutch).

I had an AIM variable pressure clutch system in my 2011 RG and it made a difference in clutch response. AIM has this Light Force system to basically replace the Harley product (they also have the variable pressure system). After researching, I chose to forgo the Harley replacement, which would have only replaced the seal but wouldn't have changed the clutch response/feel. The AIM system is WAAAYY better; no seal issues, but the biggest thing is the smooth and softer clutch response. I opted in for the VP system as well. I am in southern California, and the AIM folks did both installs for free. I can't believe the difference! I was gonna have Popeye forearms with the old system!

You can get the warranty replacement (not discouraging that, because it's free), but the clutch response will still be the same. For me, the clutch is not only smoother and the response is better, and the engagement is more predictable. Just my 2 cents. Probably the best mod ever for my new bike.

Again, if you are in southern Cal; just give AIM a call. They will do the install for free (at least that was the case when I had it done). Great customer service.

 

Too bad I don’t live out there, not only for that kind of service, but for the weather as well! Thanks for the feedback on the AIM system, I’ve been looking pretty hard at it

 

You could still do the install yourself. The difference is amazing and you won't regret it...

 

I’m waiting on my “Light Force” slave cylinder to show up, I ordered it through Direct Cycle Parts. Unfortunately I couldn’t have it “drop shipped” as I live in Northern California, I would of had by now. I’m glad to hear you like yours!

 

I have heard the AIM is getting a product revision the first of the year.

 

AIM Light Force Review & Tips




What kind of revision? And who is your source?




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either the angle of bend is changing of the body is changing to put the threads in a position so you don't have to bend the hydraulic line.

 

I'm going to wait for the Phase 2. I have the SDR on the way though. Contemplating new friction too. SE plates aren't cost prohibitive. I get High RPM slippage with 1200n springs on the clutch already. But, sure looking forward to a decent friction zone and earlier engagement.

 

If one already had the Gen 1 AIM installed, is there any reason/benefit to swap out for Gen 2 when released?


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My understanding is that the new version eliminates the need to slightly bend the hydraulic line to get it through the opening and lined up with the AIM unit. Other than that, I think it is the same. I have not seen any claims for performance improvements, only ease of installation.

 

Here is a link to their website;
https://aim-tamachi.com/collections/light-force-slave-cylinder
Bill

 

Follow Up From AIM RE New Product

Hi All, I asked the folks at AIM about the changes to the new model due out this month. Here is the response I got, posting with their permission. He also talks about the throw being adequate.I thought you guys would be interested in this...

That is awesome to hear that many are happy with this new product. As for the revision is concerned the performance has not been changed. Still functions same as the first version. Only difference being the clutch line inlet onto the cylinder has been matched with stock so the installation of the line will be a lot more simpler than before. Many have loosened the clutch line bracket to give some slack and pulled the clutch line or have slightly shaped the line to match the version 1 to fit but now all of that should not be necessary. In addition, we’ve done some testing as well with the 2019 bikes that is now equipped with a thicker seat/damper spring and an extra clutch plate. Our light force does indeed have the necessary push rod throw to properly disengage and engage the clutch. The throw is all but slightly shorter than stock but with Harley’s conservative specifications ours exceed the minimum travel needed for proper and smooth clutch operation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z28JC0NHEWo

If you have any other questions in regards to the LF please let me know.

Best regards,

Alex

 

Its seems like this AIM Light force should be simple. I have the new version.

I got it installed pretty easy (2018 RGU), hardest part was moving the exhaust enough to get the pretty cover off.

So I cant seem to get it to actuate the clutch. (being doubtful, I just put in gear, engine off and try to move the bike, clutch pulled or not, it tries to turn the engine over)

I've bled this thing 20+ times. Got some bubbles near the start and one more time when I let the reservoir get a little too low. Other than that, Ive pumped about 6 oz of brake fluid through this thing.

I still get no friction point, the clutch lever just has no difference in pull from full open to full pulled.

I talked with AIM tech support and all they can say is probably a bleeding issue. So I did some more bleeding (I am using the method in the service manual), no joy.

Ill call AIM back tomorrow (gotta walk away for awhile), but just wondering or maybe just venting. Im thinking Im going to have to put the stock one back on just to prove its not me (or is me if that fails also).

I feel better already, in the 70's again tomorrow, Ill feel bad if Im still messing with this.

Thanks for listening. Willing to take any suggestions or abuse if it helps me get back on the road.

 

If you are testing to see if the bike will roll in gear with the bike off you won't be able to tell that way. The clutch plates will stick together in what they call oil lock. You need to start the bike and the plates will break free then when they are all loose and warmed up you should be able to roll the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in and the bike off.

 

Also the feel you are describing with the clutch lever is how mine feels. The difference in pull is reduced enough to where it makes you think something is wrong.

When you go to start the bike I would leave it in a sturdy wheel chock or at least have the bike pointed in a safe direction when you go to pull in the clutch and put it in gear for the first time just in case there is a bleeding issue. My guess is that you are fine but better safe than sorry.

 

I've heard of people bleeding the front brake on older bikes from the bleed valve to the master cylinder to push the bubbles up. Does that apply here?

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Absolutely. I use a large syringe I bought at Harbor Freight that comes with a long section of the clear bleeder hose. Empty the reservoir first, fill the syringe with your fluid, connect the hose to the bleed valve with the wrench already attached, crack the valve open and then push the fluid into the system. You may still want to check using the conventional method but you won't have to pump it through near as much as you would starting that way. Pushing the fluid through from the bottom is by far the easiest way I found.

My guess is still that he is good and that it's the new slave cylinder that is making him think something is wrong. I feel this way because I went through the exact same thing he is. My bike had sat for more than a week, and when I thought I had it bled properly I could not roll the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. I knew about oil lock but had forgotten all about it and it caused me a lot of extra work. I even called Smarty and when I told him what I did he quickly reminded me about the clutch plates and the oil lock possibility. I felt pretty dumb but I'm getting old so it didn't last long. Lol!

 

When I converted my 10 to a hydraulic clutch I wasn't sure what the pull was supposed to be, so I opened the derby cover to see if the pressure plate was moving appropriately before trying one of the more (poke into gear and hope) dramatic results tests.

 

I also did that and put a dial caliper on it to see if it was in spec and it wasn't but it was moving. After I started the bike and put it in gear, I found that all was actually good I remeasured the pressure plate movement and now it was in spec. The clutch plates were sticking together and once you get them to separate it makes all the difference in the world.

Also, the poke in gear hope test really isn't that dramatic. I guess that depends on who you are and what you actually expect from it though so it could be for some I suppose.

 

@enddav - In all seriousness, if you don't feel comfortable trying what I suggested don't try it. Just because I went through very much what you have described doesn't mean you have the same issue so please proceed with only what you feel you can. Please let us know what you figure out.

 

RGKen, I am totally comfortable with your plan. I should be getting to it this afternoon and will provide results.
My indecision right now is if Im confident enough to put it all back together, because Im not sure I should run with the exhaust loose. I'm leaning toward full reassembly before start up, leaning toward confidence:smile:
Thanks.

 

Success.
I ordered a couple syringes on Amazon (one for suctioning out the master, one for pushing in at the slave)

Pushed through almost 150ml of fluid (crazy amount:surprise and checked the clutch movement (inspected behind derby cover).... none.

So I went to refill the syringe and noticed some air had entered the tube, while it was still attached. Should not be there, that was the clue.

Then I remembered that the AIM bleeder was a little smaller than OEM, well that slight difference was apparently the problem. (they even mention in their instructions that you must use their bleeder because its a different size) I bought some 3/16"ID tubing to replace the 1/4"ID I was using. It was difficult to get the 3/16" on the valve to stay, but once I did, it was tight. I went through the whole process one more time and checked for clutch movement and SUCCESS.

So everyone here probably knows the right size tubing to use, but I didn't and this was probably my issue all along. So Ill say it here and maybe some other hydraulic neophyte will have an easier time with it, use 3/16" ID on the AIM Light Force v2. And definitely use the Reverse bleeding method.

Ive tested it running, in gear, in the garage, and there is no drag (my test is running in 1st gear, with clutch pulled and roll the bike backwards without any more effort than when in neutral).

I do have to get used to the friction point being about 1 inch from the grip. Its amazing how muscle memory tells my hand the bike wont start moving until I release the lever a couple inches.... have to relearn that:grin: It should stop raining in the next day or two and I can road test and learn the new feel.

I want to thank y'all for the guidance and encouragement, heck RGKen even PM'd me his phone number if I needed to talk through it.