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TBars. I am thinking of making the switch. Need some advice

2.7K views 37 replies 13 participants last post by  scott_0  
#1 ·
I currently have the KST Spearhead bars on my bike, and I absolutely love them! They look great and are very adjustable. However, since I have full Ohlins suspension and the KST bars are quite wide, they cover the fork adjuster on my bike.

I want to switch to a T-bar setup. I'm unsure about the size of the riser and which brand to choose. My main goal is to ensure that the gauges do not block my radio, as I like to use CarPlay for navigation and other functions. I would like a setup that has the gauges positioned below the bars without hitting the tank. I'm flexible with the setup, but my only specific requirement is regarding the height of the riser.

I really like the Kraus Wolf Pro setup, but I'm also interested in the Thrashin option. Can anyone offer some insight on this topic? I also want to know if you can run hand warmer grips on a T-Bar setup?
 
#2 ·
Hey Pat, IMO the only way to do T-bars on anything other than the new Gen 3 bikes which have no center gauges, is with the Koso clamp gauge. Not sure if this is still for sale, but check out the listing below and his first photo. Pretty bad ass setup and too bad it won’t work on my pre-Canbus bike……..


There was another recent thread where dude did the Koso, but then took out the two analog gauges in the fairing since they’re now included in the Koso dash, and installed tweeters in their place ….. Looked very sharp.
 
#3 ·
@Chopjaw I have the Thrashin’ 6 1/2” Pullback Risers with 1” Extension and HiBend Bar Setup on My 2012 Custom and love the feel and can see the gauges fine Pat.
Thrashin’ and Kraus both make some Great Setups for New Glides.
I guess it comes down to Preference and Cost.
Best of Luck with your decision Brother.
Mike U.
 
#4 ·
How tall are you, Mike? I'm 6'1 and all torso (as my wife says). My worry is that I don't get the right height... 6.5" 9", and 10". My goal is to buy once, cry once. The cost is not super critical to me...
 
#5 ·
I have all OG on mine. With OG you can put the gauges wherever you want. Heated grips no problem. I’ve had my gauges on top of the risers and for no particular reason I recently moved them to in front . 10.5 inch risers on mine with thrashin high bend. Started out with biltwell tracker highs.
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#7 ·
@Chopjaw Pat I’m obviously new to the tbars on a RG since I got my CVO ST recently. Yeah I know apples to your oranges since you have a 22. I’ll comment to you on height. I swapped out my risers to an 8” pullback as the factory straight 6” had me hunched forward slightly. I also kept the factory moto bar so that’s another 5.75” rise for about 13.5” when set up for me. I see my dash clearly. For reference I’m about 5’10” on a good day with 32” inseam so I’m torso. As for gauge placement for you that’ll be whatever you’ll like to see. The Koso referenced above is nice. Arlen Ness has a setup that places your gauges on top of the riser. Kraus has all this adjustable stuff to drive you nuts. You’ll need to do some pic hunting to check them out.
 
#15 ·
For the gauge relocation, Big Bear offers this: Fairing Gauge Relocation Kit (2015-2024) FIBER GLASS COVER FOR ORIGINAL GAUGE LOCATION, IS NO LONGER AVAILIBLE - Big Bear Performance

I have this on my bike. Wasn't super stoked about the look initially but I really didn't want to hang gauges off my handlebars, and really didn't have many options for that route anyway based on my riser setup. BUT, after getting it installed and riding with it, there's no way I'd go with gauges mounted to the risers just for the fact that I don't have to look down to see them. Its basically a heads up display, super convenient. Only thing is that the cowl piece is fiberglass and comes raw. You'll need to have it painted. Here are a couple pics of my rig. apologies on the crappy cropped pics but I cant get any proper pics at the moment because my bike its in 100 pieces scattered about the garage and spare bedroom.

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Running a 10" sport cut clear view windshield that I painted solid black. The height of the windshield is exactly the height of the gauge pod, it looks pretty good in my opinion.
 
#16 ·
How are they on long rides? I know it's more of an aggressive stance on the bike. I'm not the fastest, I know, but I do ride fast and like to scrape the pegs. What I like if the upright riding style but being in that position seems like it would really make you sore after 6+ hours on the bike getting somewhere... Thoughts?
 
#17 ·
I find my setup super comfortable and we ride long days. I run my risers on the closer position on the OG trees so I have some bend in my arms. They have stock, two inches closer or with adapter plates you can split the difference. I’m 6’2 for reference.
 
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#18 ·
Alright...sounds like you are on the same path that I was on. I'm 5'-11" with a 30" inseam so I'm mostly torso as well. I started out with my stock bars for about 500 miles and then went to 14" KST Spearheads. I loved those and did a lot of riding in the Smokey Mountains with them.

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After about 1500 miles I decided I wanted to do something different so I went with the Thrashin setup. I replaced the top tree and went with 9-1/2" Kickback and their mid bend bars. Night and day difference. I loved this setup. The bike was so much more responsive to my commands. Just small counter steering movements and it made the curves effortless. A couple more trips to the Smokeys as well on this and I knew I made the right choice.

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I rode that for about 5000 miles before I decided to have my engine built and that removed my counter balancer. Withe the T-Bar setup you are going to get more vibrations because most people are going with solid bushings. I had them as well. When they removed the counter balancer, it was just too much vibration so I swapped over to the 10" Kraus Moonshine setup (same as the Wolf One kit, but with the gauges mounted front and center). I also used their T-Rex plate plate and the FM bars. This put me right perfect. The difference between this and Thrashin is that there are polly bushings up in the kickback portion that take out just that smidgen of extra vibration. It is still very rigid and responsive. I've been running this since about the 10K mile mark and I'm over 24K now on it.

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After Sturgis, I did swap out the T-Rex plate for their SDC Dagger plate as that gave me another inch of rise but took away a smidgen of pullback. It took me a little bit to get used to that, but I am perfect. I have great responsiveness and it's super comfortable for all day riding. I have done a 1K in a day on it with no arm pain at the end of the ride. I even put the Kraus 8" setup on my wife's bike. I just recently did two 1K in a day rides on her bike back to back. It's setup for a 5'-1" rider so it wasn't as comfortable but the bars did excellent.

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I like the Kraus setup, even though there are others that I like aesthetically better than Kraus, because of the adjustability. You can change the height and pullback without buying a completely new setup. It works great. I think you will be very happy with Kraus if you go that route, but more importantly T-Bars are great and you will feel the difference immediately. Thrashin has some really good videos on their website on how to determine what height/pullback. Take a look there.

In the end, I'm super happy I went with T-Bars. It took me a while to find the right setup for me, but it worked out in the end. I was also able to sell my KST's and my Thrashin setup without taking much of a loss as I was patient in waiting for the right buyer. Best of luck to you and let me know if you have any questions.
 
#22 ·
Alright...sounds like you are on the same path that I was on. I'm 5'-11" with a 30" inseam so I'm mostly torso as well. I started out with my stock bars for about 500 miles and then went to 14" KST Spearheads. I loved those and did a lot of riding in the Smokey Mountains with them.

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After about 1500 miles I decided I wanted to do something different so I went with the Thrashin setup. I replaced the top tree and went with 9-1/2" Kickback and their mid bend bars. Night and day difference. I loved this setup. The bike was so much more responsive to my commands. Just small counter steering movements and it made the curves effortless. A couple more trips to the Smokeys as well on this and I knew I made the right choice.

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I rode that for about 5000 miles before I decided to have my engine built and that removed my counter balancer. Withe the T-Bar setup you are going to get more vibrations because most people are going with solid bushings. I had them as well. When they removed the counter balancer, it was just too much vibration so I swapped over to the 10" Kraus Moonshine setup (same as the Wolf One kit, but with the gauges mounted front and center). I also used their T-Rex plate plate and the FM bars. This put me right perfect. The difference between this and Thrashin is that there are polly bushings up in the kickback portion that take out just that smidgen of extra vibration. It is still very rigid and responsive. I've been running this since about the 10K mile mark and I'm over 24K now on it.

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After Sturgis, I did swap out the T-Rex plate for their SDC Dagger plate as that gave me another inch of rise but took away a smidgen of pullback. It took me a little bit to get used to that, but I am perfect. I have great responsiveness and it's super comfortable for all day riding. I have done a 1K in a day on it with no arm pain at the end of the ride. I even put the Kraus 8" setup on my wife's bike. I just recently did two 1K in a day rides on her bike back to back. It's setup for a 5'-1" rider so it wasn't as comfortable but the bars did excellent.

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I like the Kraus setup, even though there are others that I like aesthetically better than Kraus, because of the adjustability. You can change the height and pullback without buying a completely new setup. It works great. I think you will be very happy with Kraus if you go that route, but more importantly T-Bars are great and you will feel the difference immediately. Thrashin has some really good videos on their website on how to determine what height/pullback. Take a look there.

In the end, I'm super happy I went with T-Bars. It took me a while to find the right setup for me, but it worked out in the end. I was also able to sell my KST's and my Thrashin setup without taking much of a loss as I was patient in waiting for the right buyer. Best of luck to you and let me know if you have any questions.
Two things I didn't reference in my earlier post that you asked about.
  1. When I had the Thrashin setup, I was able to position the gauges where I could read everything on them and barely miss the bottom of my screen. So much to the point that it didn't bother me at all unless I was looking for a road name display when navigating with the BOOM GTS internal nav. I rarely used that so it didn't really matter to me.
  2. If you go with the MHP setup like I did on the Kraus, I would highly suggest you swap out your tank dash and get rid of the flip up gas lid (this is null if you have a side fill tank though). It is a pain in the ass to fuel up if you don't. You'll notice on my original post I had the stock tank dash with the fuel door when I had the Thrashin bars installed. Changed that out when I moved to the Kraus because it was such a pain in the ass to fuel up. It worked but you had to position the pump handle just right and turn the bars just right. If you go with any setup in front of the risers, this will be a problem. I don't have that problem now though.
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#19 ·
All thrashin. Didn’t have to give up heated grips with this set up either.
9.5” risers, +1” spacer, top clamp, gauge housing, mid-bend bars. This is the view from my rising position. I’m 6’1”ish, I could probably go to the high bend bar, but I like this setup for all around use. I’ve spent several all day rides without issues…other than having old people problems…and I’m not as old as most of the folks here.
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#21 ·
Didn’t have to give up heated grips with this set up either.
Very valid point here. I transferred my heated grips over from the KST's to the Thrashin when I did that, but I rarely used the heated function. On the Kraus setup I have now with the FM bars, you cannot use heated grips. Didn't think of pointing that out. Good call.
 
#26 ·
My plan is to use Shrink Warp on the ends but needed to know the diamater of the loom to use. Too big or too small is what I want to avoid. Is 1/2" the right size or could i go to 3/8" ?
 
#28 ·
Get some 1/2 and 3/8, I looked back at my pics and Amazon orders and that’s what I bought. If you look back at my pics at the start of the thread you can see three bundles. The left side with the bigger bundle for the heated grips wiring has 1/2. Another tip, if you have a phone on the bars is run a phone wire up while you’re at it.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Hey Fellas, what bars can I use that will take HD Switchback Heated Grips.? Can you tell me the brand? The local HD store has a Kraus Wolf one setup that they cut me a mega deal on, but the Fly bars they have wont fit heated grips.. My thought was to take off some of the PC but didnt want to find out that I messed with the integrity of the bars. So I'd rather buy some bars that will work. Black bars.