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You might need to retune depending on how drastic a cam change you install. If you know how to program your fuel management device you can do it yourself. You might tell the dealer that you are going to ride the bike for a few days before you decide what to do. If the bike runs OK, leave it alone. Ya, dealers use every opportunity in the world to lighten your wallet and enrich theirs. If they sense that you are not mechanically savvy they will play on that.
 
You might need to retune depending on how drastic a cam change you install. If you know how to program your fuel management device you can do it yourself. You might tell the dealer that you are going to ride the bike for a few days before you decide what to do. If the bike runs OK, leave it alone. Ya, dealers use every opportunity in the world to lighten your wallet and enrich theirs. If they sense that you are not mechanically savvy they will play on that.
Thank you sir. The Andrews 48 cams shouldn't be that drastic but I could be wrong. I may hold off on the cam install as we just got hit with a dump of snow. So much for the groundhog theory... haha.
 
After reading many threads, watching videos I'm going to upgrade the cams.

I have a 15RG with V&H monster ovals, FP3, High flow A/C and decat headpipe.
I may upgrade the headpipe afterwards.

My narrowed down selection is this.
SE 585 cams, or S&S 585 cams
SE cam installation gasket kit.
SE cam plate w/HV oil pump.
SE Valve spring kit.
New lifters, not sure which ones yet. Any suggestions?

What is the part# for the 0.30 head gasket?

Also do I need to replace the pushrods, seeing how I will have the heads off anyways.

Thanks
 
After reading many threads, watching videos I'm going to upgrade the cams.

I have a 15RG with V&H monster ovals, FP3, High flow A/C and decat headpipe.
I may upgrade the headpipe afterwards.

My narrowed down selection is this.
SE 585 cams, or S&S 585 cams
SE cam installation gasket kit.
SE cam plate w/HV oil pump.
SE Valve spring kit.
New lifters, not sure which ones yet. Any suggestions?

What is the part# for the 0.30 head gasket?

Also do I need to replace the pushrods, seeing how I will have the heads off anyways.

Thanks
The .030" cometic head gasket is C9721. I went with the standard S&S lifters.
 
After reading many threads, watching videos I'm going to upgrade the cams.

I have a 15RG with V&H monster ovals, FP3, High flow A/C and decat headpipe.
I may upgrade the headpipe afterwards.

My narrowed down selection is this.
SE 585 cams, or S&S 585 cams
SE cam installation gasket kit.
SE cam plate w/HV oil pump.
SE Valve spring kit.
New lifters, not sure which ones yet. Any suggestions?

What is the part# for the 0.30 head gasket?

Also do I need to replace the pushrods, seeing how I will have the heads off anyways.

Thanks
No need to replace the pushrods.
No need to do the SE Cam Plate.
No need to do the valve spring kit.
Ditch the FP3 and get a good tuner.
Comp 850 or S&S lifters.
Even with a .030 head gasket you will not have enough compression for either of those cams.
 
No need to replace the pushrods.
No need to do the SE Cam Plate.
No need to do the valve spring kit.
Ditch the FP3 and get a good tuner.
Comp 850 or S&S lifters.
Even with a .030 head gasket you will not have enough compression for either of those cams.

Is there a gasket change that would work? What size? At what point will there be any valve clearance issues?
I'm ok with changing pistons, once I'm in there. What would you recommend for pistons and head gasket, keep in mind pump gas.

Thanks
 
Is there a gasket change that would work? What size? At what point will there be any valve clearance issues?

I'm ok with changing pistons, once I'm in there. What would you recommend for pistons and head gasket, keep in mind pump gas.



Thanks


A gasket change won't get you there for either cam. You'd have to change pistons or cut the heads. Of those two cams I'd use the S&S585's. With stock valves you should be fine, however it wouldn't hurt to clay the pistons just to be safe. It's when you go to larger valves that the relief cut isn't large enough for the valve.

Really though, if you are going in that deep into the motor you should get hold of a good head guy and plan a build together that will suit your riding style best. You will be a much happier camper.

What exactly are you trying to accomplish? And how much money are you wanting to spend?
 
A gasket change won't get you there for either cam. You'd have to change pistons or cut the heads. Of those two cams I'd use the S&S585's. With stock valves you should be fine, however it wouldn't hurt to clay the pistons just to be safe. It's when you go to larger valves that the relief cut isn't large enough for the valve.

Really though, if you are going in that deep into the motor you should get hold of a good head guy and plan a build together that will suit your riding style best. You will be a much happier camper.

What exactly are you trying to accomplish? And how much money are you wanting to spend?
I ride 99.9% of the time 1 up, even when my girlfriend is with me she weighs a whole 110lbs.

As for budget like a $1000. My girlfriend bought me a $500 HD gift card so I have to spend it with HD.

But after reading, watching I like the sound of the 585 cams.

I'm just wanting to do as much performance with as little machine work to help the cause. It's not a race bike by any means, just wanting that rumble that I heard.

So based on info in this thread a 0.30 gasket was recommended with the 585 cam to help it out.
As for the SE cam plate/pump more is better when it come to the oil system, I know it's a chunk of change, that could be spent else where.

The FP3 now has cam selection for the 585 cams. Should it not work out I can change it later.

If the springs are not needed with the S&S that's great, The SE 585 said that it needed the springs, or are they just over thinking it?
 
I ride 99.9% of the time 1 up, even when my girlfriend is with me she weighs a whole 110lbs.

As for budget like a $1000. My girlfriend bought me a $500 HD gift card so I have to spend it with HD.

But after reading, watching I like the sound of the 585 cams.

I'm just wanting to do as much performance with as little machine work to help the cause. It's not a race bike by any means, just wanting that rumble that I heard.

So based on info in this thread a 0.30 gasket was recommended with the 585 cam to help it out.
As for the SE cam plate/pump more is better when it come to the oil system, I know it's a chunk of change, that could be spent else where.

The FP3 now has cam selection for the 585 cams. Should it not work out I can change it later.

If the springs are not needed with the S&S that's great, The SE 585 said that it needed the springs, or are they just over thinking it?
That $500 gift card will buy aftermarket parts from HD as well. If you really want a good running bike that sounds good and pulls hard, why spend the $1000. Lets try to keep it under or around the $500. Buy a set of HD tapered adjustable pushrods. A set of Comp cams 850 lifters. Andrews 48, 54, or 57 cams, HD SE204 cams, HD SE255 cams, or even a set of HD SE254E cams. Change out the inner cam bearings and buy the gaskets and consumable parts. Don't pop the heads off. Don't waste the coin on the hydraulic plate upgrade.

You will save money. You will be happier in the end.
 
That $500 gift card will buy aftermarket parts from HD as well. If you really want a good running bike that sounds good and pulls hard, why spend the $1000. Lets try to keep it under or around the $500. Buy a set of HD tapered adjustable pushrods. A set of Comp cams 850 lifters. Andrews 48, 54, or 57 cams, HD SE204 cams, HD SE255 cams, or even a set of HD SE254E cams. Change out the inner cam bearings and buy the gaskets and consumable parts. Don't pop the heads off. Don't waste the coin on the hydraulic plate upgrade.

You will save money. You will be happier in the end.
Forgot to mention I have the Rockouts to install too and replace the breather valves, so I was going to open up the top side anyways. So the push rods won't be an issue. I will look for some video clips on the cams you mentioned. I did hear the Andrews 57H cam video, sounded ok.

Those Comp Cams 850 lifters would happen to have the P/N?
Can I add just a H/V pump to the stock cam plate?
 
Forgot to mention I have the Rockouts to install too and replace the breather valves, so I was going to open up the top side anyways. So the push rods won't be an issue. I will look for some video clips on the cams you mentioned. I did hear the Andrews 57H cam video, sounded ok.

Those Comp Cams 850 lifters would happen to have the P/N?
Can I add just a H/V pump to the stock cam plate?
V Thunder: Hydraulic Roller Lifter: 99'-Present Twin Cam, 00'-Later Sporster and Buell

Thats just the point. The high volume pump isn't really higher volume for your bike. It is for the older bikes. You gain nothing.

You have no need to replace the breathers unless your bike is puking oil and the rockouts are a solution in search of a problem.

You do not need the adjustable pushrods, but they make it much easier to change the cams. i say that you don't need them, but there are some cams that have a smaller base circle and the adjustables help by taking up the added length, as well as if you ever do cut the heads for compression or go to a smaller head gasket.
 
V Thunder: Hydraulic Roller Lifter: 99'-Present Twin Cam, 00'-Later Sporster and Buell

Thats just the point. The high volume pump isn't really higher volume for your bike. It is for the older bikes. You gain nothing.

You have no need to replace the breathers unless your bike is puking oil and the rockouts are a solution in search of a problem.

You do not need the adjustable pushrods, but they make it much easier to change the cams. i say that you don't need them, but there are some cams that have a smaller base circle and the adjustables help by taking up the added length, as well as if you ever do cut the heads for compression or go to a smaller head gasket.
Yes I'm pulling oil from the head, so that's why the breather replacement. I will save the coin and not get the cam plate, oil pump. When the bike is warmed up at idle it has like 13 psi and 36 at speed. so the pump is good. The bike has 13xxx miles on it.

Guess I will go back to if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Replace the breathers, add the cam and lifters and ride!

Thanks
 
Yes I'm pulling oil from the head, so that's why the breather replacement. I will save the coin and not get the cam plate, oil pump. When the bike is warmed up at idle it has like 13 psi and 36 at speed. so the pump is good. The bike has 13xxx miles on it.

Guess I will go back to if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Replace the breathers, add the cam and lifters and ride!

Thanks
You will puke oil if you fill the tank over the midpoint on the dipstick while hot. Check the oil level first and if needed reduce the amount of oil. Try that before you replace parts. Just in case you hadn't done that already.
 
What cam did you go with?
I went with the Andrews 57h cam. I haven't installed it yet because i have been waiting on my .030" head gasket and cam chest gasket kit, but now i have everything i need now so the fun begins after the weekend.
 
Well, today I installed cams.
Against some advice of cams I chose the S&S MR103 E-Z start cams.
I put in new S&S standard lifters and quickie push rods.

I replaced the breather valves and installed RockOuts.
No more oil smell and I don't know if the lifters are better or the RockOuts made the difference.
The valve train is quiet now.

I have a decatted head pipe with a internal pipe to feed the left side more volume, V&H Monster Ovals and A/N big sucker A/C with a FP3.

Installed a map with V&H power duels with the V&H mufflers and the MR103 cam.

Motor sounds pretty much like it's stock, No lope like I was thinking it would.
Don't know why?

Went for some shake down rides to check everything and all was good.

Went for a ride tonight and the test for improved power was to run against a friends bike.
Well he doesn't pull on me anymore, now its the other way around!


I runs very smooth, no flat spots or hiccups, or popping. Very pleased about how it runs other than not sounding like it has a cam change in it.

Tomorrow will be going for a much longer ride, think I will turn on the Auto tune and gather some data to flash.

Tonight the engine temp went no higher than 262 even after the performance test.
 
You can still get high torque numbers without getting high HP numbers. You can see 103 builds that have 95 HP and 110 ft lb plus of torque and builds that have 100 plus HP and 110 ft lbs plus of torque and they both perform the same , the only difference is the higher HP builds cost more money.

I had a 103 stage 2 build with a SE 255 cam and it produced 94 HP and 107.5 ft lbs of torque I then got a bug in my ass and put in a stage 4 kit and got 104 HP and 106 ft lbs of torque, the end result was a 10 HP gain with a 1 ft lb loss of torque and it only cost me $5,000 to have a builder do this work :surprise:. By the way the builder screwed up my engine and it cost a lot of time and money to get my bike right again.


Here's a build and tune I just did for a customer. T-Man 555's.
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